Click of doom (1 Viewer)

[reznunt]

Just a follow up. The click came back but this time on the passenger side. It is also on the driver side but it's very faint. I bought ChassisEars and found that the click was most pronounced on the lower ball joint bolt and on the brake caliper mounting bolt. My next move was to swap out the LBJ's since one of them had a torn boot from long ago anyway. Then I was going to change out the calipers.

I was suspicious that I had the front a bit too high, right at 2" of droop or even a hair less, which may be contributing to the clicking. So before the LBJ and caliper swap, I changed out my 864's in the back for 863's dropping the rear an inch. Doing so allowed me to drop the front an inch. So far so good as the click(s) are gone again. I won't know if too much lift was the culprit until I put some miles on so I'll follow up here again after a couple of months. Hope this thread helps whoever has the same issue.

 

[2001LC]

Ball joints will click. Easy test for bad lower ball joints:
With bottle jack under LCA, taking weight/pressure/tension off ball joint(s). Raise high enough to get pry bar under tire, then repeatedly pull up and relax on pry bar, while video taping ball joint(s).
Here we see space between LCA & knuckle compress about a 1/8". This is a shot ball. We would not see any compression in a good ball joint.



The fact you drop the front and clicking stopped, points to bad FDS CV.
I see time and time again reports of after a lift clicks. Clicks generally start 5K to 20K afterwards. The CV of FDS (front drive shaft) don't like inclination changed.
This one was lifted after 200K miles. Then after 50K miles, CV was taken apart. Notice ball scoring in tow position..

Not so easy test. Need to get front drive shaft in as straight as line as possible.

 

[reznunt]

Ball joints will click. Easy test for bad lower ball joints:
With bottle jack under LCA, taking weight/pressure/tension off ball joint(s). Raise high enough to get pry bar under tire, then repeatedly pull up and relax on pry bar, while video taping ball joint(s).
Here we see space between LCA & knuckle compress about a 1/8". This is a shot ball. We would not see any compression in a good ball joint.



The fact you drop the front and clicking stopped, points to bad FDS CV.
I see time and time again reports of after a lift clicks. Clicks generally start 5K to 20K afterwards. The CV of FDS (front drive shaft) don't like inclination changed.
This one was lifted after 200K miles. Then after 50K miles, CV was taken apart. Notice ball scoring in tow position..
View attachment 2432962
Not so easy test. Need to get front drive shaft in as straight as line as possible.
View attachment 2432958

Thanks for the info. The click started before installing both new OEM CV's. Installing new OEM CV's (and replacing the previous owner's aftermarket CV's) was one of the first things I did to remedy the click sound. It did not help. Also, the click came about 4 years after lifting it (with diff drop). It didn't immediately start clicking after lifting it.

If the click comes back I'll replace the LBJ's with the 555's I have in hand.

 

[reznunt]

Update: Good news, front end is still click free after bringing the front down. Bad news, I have a new click on the rear driver side.

It's like playing whack-a-mole with this click and I can slowly feel myself going insane. First it was the front driver side, then passenger side, now rear driver side. At least in the rear there are fewer possibilities. I'll check the brake/ebrake hardware first.

 

[kruisinkid]

I realized a few days ago that my clicking seemed like it was coming from the rear. Took the RR tire off and the most obvious problem looked to be a bent brake dust shield. Bent it back inward. I had also replaced all of the rear sway bar bushings and changed to TT extended links. The click is so far gone. No need for new CVs yet!

 

[reznunt]

I realized a few days ago that my clicking seemed like it was coming from the rear. Took the RR tire off and the most obvious problem looked to be a bent brake dust shield. Bent it back inward. I had also replaced all of the rear sway bar bushings and changed to TT extended links. The click is so far gone. No need for new CVs yet!

Thanks, I'll definitely check the dust shield but I don't think that's the issue since the click is sporadic in frequency and also the when it decides to return. After looking at the obvious stuff, I'll use the chassis ears to check things like brake hardware, dust shield, shock and swaybar hardware, and then move onto the bigger stuff.

 

[2001LC]

Make sure to check the upper shock(s) nut. I've found those loose, after shock replacement. Also the cushion and spacer (collar) in link to bar rear, are almost always shot.

 

[reznunt]

Make sure to check the upper shock(s) nut. I've found those loose, after shock replacement. Also the cushion and spacer (collar) in link to bar rear, are almost always shot.

Noted, thanks. I've had those sounds before and they were a deeper sound. This is more of a light "tick" sound. Also, I can hear it driving on perfectly flat ground at <1 MPH with no suspension movement. It's intermittent, and when it does appear it is mostly sporadic without repeating patterns. Hope that makes sense.

 

[2001LC]

Noted, thanks. I've had those sounds before and they were a deeper sound. This is more of a light "tick" sound. Also, I can hear it driving on perfectly flat ground at <1 MPH with no suspension movement. It's intermittent, and when it does appear it is mostly sporadic without repeating patterns. Hope that makes sense.

Any change when brake pedal or E-brake applied!

Any foreign object in tire tread!

I had one scraping sound, that I tied a gopro camera underneath to isolated as to area, but never found. It mostly gone now... LOL! Drove me nuts trying to find. It was scraping sound. Seems with time and proper baseline, it just stop for the most part..

Check those spider joints also. But generally I'll hear those on HWY downhill coasting, as I slip trany in neatural at 70 MPH. WOAH, WOAH WOAH as steady and reliable sound

 

[reznunt]

Any change when brake pedal or E-brake applied!

Any foreign object in tire tread!

I had one scraping sound, that I tied a gopro camera underneath to isolated as to area, but never found. It mostly gone now... LOL! Drove me nuts trying to find. It was scraping sound. Seems with time and proper baseline, it just stop for the most part..

Check those spider joints also. But generally I'll hear those on HWY downhill coasting, as I slip trany in neatural at 70 MPH. WOAH, WOAH WOAH as steady and reliable sound

Any change when brake pedal or E-brake applied! Hard to tell because it is so sporadic and not repetitive. Starts and stops with or without the brakes. I'll try again.

Any foreign object in tire tread! I'll check but I'm guessing no since the sound is not perfectly cyclical (as in frequency), and sometimes goes from one click to double click and back to one click.

Seems with time and proper baseline, it just stop for the most part.. I agree... was hoping for each of these clicks to get worse so I could more easily diagnose. They just lingered driving me more and more insane.

Check those spider joints also. I replaced those about 30k ago and regrease regularly so I'm not sure those are related. I'll pay attention to them though.

Too bad I'm not closer to you... I'd let you have a listen. My money is still on disc brake/ebrake hardware.

 

[reznunt]

Update: Front still click free for two weeks now. Lowering it a bit seemed to do the trick.

For the rear click, stepping on the brakes with moderate pressure sometimes made the click disappear for a moment. Thinking it might be the hardware, I bought new brake pad clips. I also had new remanufactured calipers that I never got around to installing so I installed those too. The rotors and pads still have plenty of life so I didn't replace those. I also removed the center caps from my wheels in case that was the issue. The click is gone now. I'll report back with an update but for now my solution seems to be either new brake pad clips, calipers, or removing a loose/misaligned center cap.

 

[kruisinkid]

By brake pad clips do you mean the ~13$ “fitting kit” that is the handfull on small formed metal things? I noticed mine are pretty corroded and were not replaced when the pads were last replaced

 

[reznunt]

By brake pad clips do you mean the ~13$ “fitting kit” that is the handfull on small formed metal things? I noticed mine are pretty corroded and were not replaced when the pads were last replaced

Yes. I bought this kit and it fit perfectly. $9 shipped.

 

[reznunt]

FOUND IT! Went to replace a leaky valve stem and found out why it was leaking. The 18 year-old pro tire installer didn't tighten the jam nut and it fell off. It rattled inside the cavity against the wheel when coming to or leaving from a complete stop. After multiple exploratory surgeries, buying a digital ears kit, and replacing good parts chasing the click, the case is closed.

The bad news is I developed two new clicks while chasing this one. One is constant rotational coming from the center of the truck but only when on the gas. It started a year ago and hasn't gotten worse. The other appears on the front passenger side when stepping on the brakes. Could be brake hardware. Time to whip out the digital ears kit again.

 

[reznunt]

Update: It is hard to diagnose since I was dealing with multiple clicks from the front suspension/driveline that I thought was just one issue. This weekend I replaced the calipers with rebuilt ones and installed new 555 lower ball joints. I also repacked the wheel bearings and greased the needle bearings with the slee tool.

The faint constant rotational click has disappeared. The front left sporadic click that was a result of a valve stem jam nut rattling around in the tire cavity is also gone (see previous post).

I now only hear a few sporadic clicks (from the front on both sides) every time I come to a stop and sometimes when accelerating from a stop. So two clicks are gone, two clicks left. Damn it. The bright side is the wandering feeling at highway speeds is gone (lbj's) and my braking is awesome (mc rebuild and new calipers).

 

[ShenValley100LC]

The sound you describe, is typical of a CV joint of front drive shaft (FDS) going bad (in a stock rig).

It can also be a bent dust shield or dust cover of FDS. Although they make more of a scarping sound. These, especially the outer FDS dust shield, gets bent very easy. I spent 30 minutes yesterday straightening a new FDS which the dust shield was bent in shipping (very common). These are also bent if FDS allowed to rest on LCA while knuckle is off rig (also very common). If axle needle bearing shot, it may also allow even a straight dust cover to rub on knuckle and it too may sound "click" or scraping.
View attachment 2300502
This inner dust cover is not typically bent.
View attachment 2300507
Additionally, sometimes the inner snap ring that retains FDS in differential, is not seated properly. The FDS then moves in and out of differential more than designed limits. In turns, it may pull FDS out of diff. Some have reported a click from this. I always replace these snap rings when FDS removed and install with open end down.
View attachment 2300513

You said wheel bearings "torqued to spec". I'll assume you mean preload set. If torqued "to spec" which adjusting nut spec of 57in-lbf (inch) is just starting point, would be way to loose. With lifted rig, wheel spaces , AM UCA, big tires. They need preload set to upper limits of ~15LB of pull, and reset more often than 30K miles in a pure stock rigs PM schedule.

If wheel bearing loose. Wheel hub can cock to side in turns. This in turn can cause rubbing on dust cover, brake dust shield or rotors.

I've more ideas but out of time this morning. I'll check back later

So I'm resurrecting this old thread. I recently broke my lower control arm in a way I've not seen anyone else do. The metal around the second short bolt for the torsion stretched and broke. the torsion bar was not lifting the drivers side front much at all and I was hearing noises and found the below issue.

I seem to have hit both the front LCA mount and the rear back piece of the LCA. This part had been on the truck for 5 years and about 90,000 miles, it had been through a lot of offroading and some gnarly hits (the front LCA frame mount is quite bent), but it still doesnt seem like a failure mode that should happen. It was an aftermarket LCA so I got a Toyota one for $380 (3x the aftermarket one), if the OEM is thicker than the AM part its not much thicker, at least to the naked eye (didnt have caliper). Anyways that just the intro to the problem.

After installing the new OEM LCA, I did a test drive and suspension/steering wise everything felt very tight and proper again. However....I have the clicking noise now while accelerating (5-30mph)...which I didn't really have before. I am hoping/suspecting it is the the issue @2001LC brought up about the CV dust ring/cover. Because the control arm mount on the frame was bent I had to some herculean finagling to the lower ball joint in and the mounts/bushings into place. During that time I 100% rested and probably pressed the bottom of the CV on the top plate of the lower ball joint.

So I am guessing/suspecting that the click might be from bending the cv dust seal/ring or whatever its called. OR...now that I have it torsioned up to probably above normal ride height (it had been sitting lower than the passenger side for a while) maybe the CV is clicking at the newish angle? I am kind of ruling out bearings because it was clicking before, so nothing should have really changed with regards to the bearings...and also I dont want it to be bearings because that's annoying.

Anyways @2001LC if its the CV dust ring is there really anything to be done? Seems like more of an annoyance than an issue, Other than taking the CV off im not sure what I could do. If the issue is the CV itself and the angle (+-1.5" above stock) I assume the clicking would just continue/get worse and I'll have to replace the CV. The boots are not torn or anything, but it is probably 60-70,000 miles on this CV. Is the CV more likely the issue than the cv dust ring since it is more of a clicking sound than a scraping?

 

[reznunt]

So I'm resurrecting this old thread. I recently broke my lower control arm in a way I've not seen anyone else do. The metal around the second short bolt for the torsion stretched and broke. the torsion bar was not lifting the drivers side front much at all and I was hearing noises and found the below issue.

I seem to have hit both the front LCA mount and the rear back piece of the LCA. This part had been on the truck for 5 years and about 90,000 miles, it had been through a lot of offroading and some gnarly hits (the front LCA frame mount is quite bent), but it still doesnt seem like a failure mode that should happen. It was an aftermarket LCA so I got a Toyota one for $380 (3x the aftermarket one), if the OEM is thicker than the AM part its not much thicker, at least to the naked eye (didnt have caliper). Anyways that just the intro to the problem.View attachment 3536716

After installing the new OEM LCA, I did a test drive and suspension/steering wise everything felt very tight and proper again. However....I have the clicking noise now while accelerating (5-30mph)...which I didn't really have before. I am hoping/suspecting it is the the issue @2001LC brought up about the CV dust ring/cover. Because the control arm mount on the frame was bent I had to some herculean finagling to the lower ball joint in and the mounts/bushings into place. During that time I 100% rested and probably pressed the bottom of the CV on the top plate of the lower ball joint.

So I am guessing/suspecting that the click might be from bending the cv dust seal/ring or whatever its called. OR...now that I have it torsioned up to probably above normal ride height (it had been sitting lower than the passenger side for a while) maybe the CV is clicking at the newish angle? I am kind of ruling out bearings because it was clicking before, so nothing should have really changed with regards to the bearings...and also I dont want it to be bearings because that's annoying.

Anyways @2001LC if its the CV dust ring is there really anything to be done? Seems like more of an annoyance than an issue, Other than taking the CV off im not sure what I could do. If the issue is the CV itself and the angle (+-1.5" above stock) I assume the clicking would just continue/get worse and I'll have to replace the CV. The boots are not torn or anything, but it is probably 60-70,000 miles on this CV. Is the CV more likely the issue than the cv dust ring since it is more of a clicking sound than a scraping?

Sorry to hear. I would suggest using electronic ears to zero in on the sound. From experience, it could be any number of things and using ears will cut down on the amount of exploratory surgery.

BTW, I also have a new click. Same area on the driver's side, slightly deeper in tone, only happens when steering is full lock to the left. I'm guessing CV axle/snap ring. I still have the two sporadic clicks from the old previous post. I'm going to retorque my spark plugs to rule that out.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

I just crossed 580,000 miles and everything feels pretty good so I'm probably just not going to worry about it and see what happens. The only that would worry me the bearings so I may just check that the lock washers/nut is still in place and move on.

 

[2001LC]

So I'm resurrecting this old thread. I recently broke my lower control arm in a way I've not seen anyone else do. The metal around the second short bolt for the torsion stretched and broke. the torsion bar was not lifting the drivers side front much at all and I was hearing noises and found the below issue.

I seem to have hit both the front LCA mount and the rear back piece of the LCA. This part had been on the truck for 5 years and about 90,000 miles, it had been through a lot of offroading and some gnarly hits (the front LCA frame mount is quite bent), but it still doesnt seem like a failure mode that should happen. It was an aftermarket LCA so I got a Toyota one for $380 (3x the aftermarket one), if the OEM is thicker than the AM part its not much thicker, at least to the naked eye (didnt have caliper). Anyways that just the intro to the problem.View attachment 3536716

After installing the new OEM LCA, I did a test drive and suspension/steering wise everything felt very tight and proper again. However....I have the clicking noise now while accelerating (5-30mph)...which I didn't really have before. I am hoping/suspecting it is the the issue @2001LC brought up about the CV dust ring/cover. Because the control arm mount on the frame was bent I had to some herculean finagling to the lower ball joint in and the mounts/bushings into place. During that time I 100% rested and probably pressed the bottom of the CV on the top plate of the lower ball joint.

So I am guessing/suspecting that the click might be from bending the cv dust seal/ring or whatever its called. OR...now that I have it torsioned up to probably above normal ride height (it had been sitting lower than the passenger side for a while) maybe the CV is clicking at the newish angle? I am kind of ruling out bearings because it was clicking before, so nothing should have really changed with regards to the bearings...and also I dont want it to be bearings because that's annoying.

Anyways @2001LC if its the CV dust ring is there really anything to be done? Seems like more of an annoyance than an issue, Other than taking the CV off im not sure what I could do. If the issue is the CV itself and the angle (+-1.5" above stock) I assume the clicking would just continue/get worse and I'll have to replace the CV. The boots are not torn or anything, but it is probably 60-70,000 miles on this CV. Is the CV more likely the issue than the cv dust ring since it is more of a clicking sound than a scraping?

You would've and will benefit be adding support to LCW T-bar bracket.

If it's a bent dust shield on outer CV tulip of FDS. You can raise the vehicle and spin the wheel and inspect for bends and sound. You'll also want to look over the seal in the back of knuckle the best you can.

Clicking at FDS, is most often associated with a bad CV.. It mostly heard in turns. Very common when FDS have ~20k miles or more, driven at stock height. Then rig lifted, changing angle of FDS. Slee diff drops helps. But still very often within 20K miles the inner CV of FDS begins to click. This is due to wear in race and or tulip, where ball bearings ride. As angle changes with lift, they wear into new spot. In time the crossover point, starts clicking. We also can get pitting in ball, tulip and or race. This is mostly due to contaminates in CV lube.

 

[2001LC]

BTW: When torqueing down bolts holding bushings. You want the vehicle at a neutral stance. With weight on tires is best, IMHO! Some just set LWR at neutral position, while in the air on jack-stands. But loading the bushing with weight of vehicle. Which, is required by some manufactures, for warranty of some shock.

I've heard one or more of these click, when not properly torque in with vehicle on the ground:

1. Shocks lower bolt.
2. Stabilizer LWR bolt.
3. LWC bushing bolts.

I've set up with Race Ramps, to torque these:

I've also customized my floor jack, to increase lift just for them.