Clean compressed air (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Most of the systems I saw were similar to what @rkymtnflyfisher posted. Thinking I’ll go that route. Anyone see a huge advantage in using 3/4” pipe or 1/2”? 1/2 would be quite a bit cheaper, but much less surface area to condense on.
 
I used 3/4 copper for the main chambers and 1/2 copper for the drop legs for the drains. It didn't hurt that the plumbing shop I worked with donated the material for me.
 

For $32, I would imagine that this is way more effective than any amount of tubing could dream of being, and it doesn’t take up wall space. Just put a small collection tank after it for the air to stagnate in and let the water fall out. (As someone sharing a 2 car garage with 3 other guys, that’s kind of an issue)

I’m hoping that completely cooling it to ambient before going into the main compressor tank for separation will get my plasma cutter to behave. Even on the university’s compressed air system it required a desiccant filter, and I’m pretty sure that their system would have a drier in it given it’s going to research labs.
 
Just a few things to add. If you’re not familiar with copper tube, it comes in four thicknesses. Types K, L, M & DWV (drain, waste, & vent). Type K is the thickest and not common other than maybe for underground use. Type L is most common commercially and all that I have used as a pipefitter and at home. Type M is thinner and cheaper. Too thin for me. When I got some by mistake, it went to the scrap barrel. And you do not want to pressurize DWV.

Keep in mind when pipe size is reduced, the velocity increases and any condensed moisture is more likely to get carried along with the air rather than drip down to a drain. Although 1/2 inch would have worked for most air tools, I like that rcymtnflyfisher used 3/4. Nice setup.
 
Just a few things to add. If you’re not familiar with copper tube, it comes in four thicknesses. Types K, L, M & DWV (drain, waste, & vent). Type K is the thickest and not common other than maybe for underground use. Type L is most common commercially and all that I have used as a pipefitter and at home. Type M is thinner and cheaper. Too thin for me. When I got some by mistake, it went to the scrap barrel. And you do not want to pressurize DWV.

I researched that and the type L hard temper has a max working pressure of 700 psi. Do you feel that is still not enough?

Other people have talked about black pipe. Based on what I have seen it doesn't appear much cheaper and seems like there would be potential long term issues of rust flakes getting into the air supply. Thoughts on that?

Mind you all my information comes from the Home Depot website and products may be cheaper elsewhere. I have no experience with any of this stuff so I'm learning.
 
Last edited:
Don't forget ACR which besides being dehydrated/sealed it is also seamless. Comes in ridgid and soft drawn.
 
Here is mine - forgive all the metal dust.

I went with 1/2” cooper through the whole system. Mostly because I was on a budget at 3/4” added a ton of cost.

CC97F3A6-6773-4C91-AEA7-10CDC110DE16.jpeg


Here’s the drains at the bottom - just standard ball valves:

B3A2F4EE-A781-41AB-93D8-7BCFCCBFD6B9.jpeg


The air dryer terminates at this filter/water trap/regulator.

2282AB23-9777-48E8-ACAD-25D1A3E102E4.jpeg


All this, and I STILL get a bit condensation in the lines, but generally only if I’m running tools for prolonged spans that require a lot of air (like die grinders).
 
I know it is moving that way, but it is nothing like Portland. I was up in MT at Glacier in Sept and loved every moment of it. Completely different than being here. Now outside of Portland, Oregon is a fantastic place and I love it here. Unfortunately, the politics of Portland affect the entire state making it an undesirable place to live, and even harder to do my job.

I've been tempting moving back to Texas. Moved to PDX area back in March to be close to family, but PDX is no longer the place I remembered 10 years ago.

Back to your original question, a couple of people over at lateral-g.net (muscle car site) have used this set up from Harbor Freight with success.

The initial cost maybe high, but once you factor in the time to assemble the pipes, it may become a wash.
 
I've been tempting moving back to Texas. Moved to PDX area back in March to be close to family, but PDX is no longer the place I remembered 10 years ago.

Back to your original question, a couple of people over at lateral-g.net (muscle car site) have used this set up from Harbor Freight with success.

The initial cost maybe high, but once you factor in the time to assemble the pipes, it may become a wash.
I lived in the DFW for a couple years and just could not do the heat and came back to PDX. I have lived here my whole life otherwise so all family and friends are in the area. Plus the wife’s family and career holds us here as well. For now I just avoid going to Portland as much as possible.
 
No matter how much cooling you do with ambient air you still won’t get the compressed air very much if any, below 100 percent relative humidity. Even if the intake air has a lower relative humidity. Only a refrigerated air dryer will get it lower by taken the air temp down into the 30s where the moisture condenses out considerably and the air is then re-heated up close to ambient temp.
 
If you have the tools and desire make an air drier. I made one a long time ago. My son now uses it. I started out with an air tank from a truck that was used in it's air brake system. Got a bung that had about an inch pipe thread plug . My air tank was about 24 inches tall by about 10 inches diameter. I drilled a hole in the end of the tank the outside diameter of 1/2 inch black pipe. I drilled this hole near the edge. I inserted the 1/2 inch pipe in the tank and left it about 2 inches off the bottom and welded it in place with a couple inches protruding out. Make the weld air tight. I then used a hole saw the diameter of the bung and drilled out the center of the tank the same end you welded the pipe in. Screw in a drain valve to other end of tank. You want to mount this tank standing up so go visit a truck repair shop and buy brackets to mount it to the wall or build your own. Take the cap you bought to fit the bung and drill a hole large enough to tap it 3/8 pipe thread. Cap off the tank an attach air to the pipe. Mount an air gage to the 3/8 threaded hole. fill with air check for leaks and repair if any. I inserted a piece of expanded metal that would set on the bottom inside of the take and keep the desiccant from plugging up the drain plug Buy a couple gallons or more of desiccant (1/2 inch diameter--not powder) and pour into the tank. The more the better. I did not include every step because I assume any one who is going to try this has mechanical knowledge already and will be able to see the end goal. I built this system and used it for at least 10 years in the wet Willamette Valley (Portland). I painted cars and ran big die grinders and air sanders and never had a moisture problem. If you have questions let me know.
 
Tempting, but I hate the heat as well. But the more Oregon, and the PNW in general, turns into California the more I want out. Idaho or Montana are looking pretty nice....
Idaho and Montana have been taken over already!
Idaho is full and to cold. Much of the state is considered wilderness.
Montana on the other hand is wide open and has a lovely banana belt....
 
Idaho is full and to cold. Much of the state is considered wilderness.
Montana on the other hand is wide open and has a lovely banana belt....
You meant North Dakota!
 
i use something like this before my water trap too. it takes most of the water out of the tank automatically so it won’t rust out but also keeps things dryer inside. the compressed air then goes through my dryer. i like some of the ones you guys have designed better. ill do that in my next shop!!
18F6C75A-D10A-4D89-99EB-5FEE71329046.png
 
Got a good start on my dryer today before the wife commandeered my services for yard work. Need to get it placed on the wall to figure out lengths for the inlet/outlet pipes. I will eventually add in some other filters prior to time to paint.
DAC32935-0FAD-4C28-9161-C3C7B2F88391.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom