I've used these for years on various cruisers doing all kinds of trails and never had and issue. I know people talk about what can happen, but I'm not sure I've seen a post from anyone where bad things actually have happened with these plugs. As always, YMMV.
Clarification on drain plugs...
- Thread starter Congo Cruiser
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So i ordered 6 of the m18's, perfect fit. They are so strong you can hardly get them centered to tighten them because the magnetic force is so strong between the diff housing and plug. >> TOYOTA/LEXUS NISSAN/ INFINITI Way stronger than the toyota plugs.
You gotta pay to play.
4G63 POWER, Nice product, but Compared to the 20 bucks it would cost you for 8 factory plugs. I think I'd rather save that extra 260 bucks it would cost you for 8 of these DIMPLE® Oil Plugs. and just spent it on something else for my truck. YMMV
All that magnetic force is not for everyone. Swapping out my drive line fluids was expensive. Redline fluids alone was $160.00.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
I'll stick with my OEM hex plugs with the weak magnet and change the fluid more often.
If you drive through water your going to suck water in to your diffs no matter what you do. I'd rather change cheap diff fluid every 6 months than risk it with expensive fluid every year or two.
But what do I know, just been doing it this way for 23 years...
If you drive through water your going to suck water in to your diffs no matter what you do. I'd rather change cheap diff fluid every 6 months than risk it with expensive fluid every year or two.
But what do I know, just been doing it this way for 23 years...
Labor Day weekend a fella in a 4Runner two rigs ahead of me on the Rubicon lost his rear OEM diff drain plug and oil. We never found the plug because it was almost dark. The guard ring on his axle had been ground off on the rocks and his plug knocked loose.
Mine were pretty ground down and I had to use a chisel recently to remove the drain plug.
So I did this last weekend: photos next post.
Mine were pretty ground down and I had to use a chisel recently to remove the drain plug.
So I did this last weekend: photos next post.
I'll stick with my OEM hex plugs with the weak magnet and change the fluid more often.
If you drive through water your going to suck water in to your diffs no matter what you do. I'd rather change cheap diff fluid every 6 months than risk it with expensive fluid every year or two.
But what do I know, just been doing it this way for 23 years...
It's ok if the one's i posted are out of your budget, they are not for everyone. I just spent $17 per quart for gear oil X 9 I needed to change all my fluids. Talk about going over budget.
baldilocks, with that much extra armor welded on your diff's, you must play alot harder then i do off road, i guess I'm just getting old.
I live 100 miles from Rubicon and other similar trails where granite grinds the hell out of the underside. I have been wheeling my 80 just over one year and the rocks had already ground the Toyota drain plug guard down to the level of the plug. I expect that I will be adding to and/or repairing the drain plug armor you saw pictured in the not so distant future. I'm going to start "grinding" on it Saturday.
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I have never seen a properly torqued plug come out.
That's because this does not happen in the mall parking lot. Regardless, the plug guard gets ground down easily
and binds up the plug. Then plug is a son of a bitch to get out if it didn't already get removed while sliding over a granite Boulder.
and binds up the plug. Then plug is a son of a bitch to get out if it didn't already get removed while sliding over a granite Boulder.
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I'm sure that the mail parking lots are vastly superior in CA when compared to AZ?
Concrete parking blocks are likely not as cool as granite, but they have the same effect. If you're going to play on the parking blocks, and don't keep the weld rings up, will pay for it. Have seen plugs so worn that the edge is gone, no longer holding the seal ring and never had a problem getting them out. Weld a big nut on, zip it out with an impact and replace.
Doesn't matter if the tool used to remove, is an allen or hex socket, will still wear down if allowed to contact.If you are that hardcore, best to weld up the drain plug and remove a stud to drain. But I prefer having/cleaning the magnet, gives a good indicator if diff condition and like I said, when properly torqued to spec, have never see one back out, even when mostly worn away. I do carry a spare plug, but have never had to use it.
Firstly, thanks for being my proof reader. Secondly, things you have never seen happen, so happen everyday. Nice pics, it's obvious you are a more highly skilled driver than me based on the placement of the damage to these axles. I will take some notes. ThanksI'm sure that the mail parking lots are vastly superior in CA when compared to AZ?
Concrete parking blocks are likely not as cool as granite, but they have the same effect. If you're going to play on the parking blocks, and don't keep the weld rings up, will pay for it. Have seen plugs so worn that the edge is gone, no longer holding the seal ring and never had a problem getting them out. Weld a big nut on, zip it out with an impact and replace.
If you are that hardcore, best to weld up the drain plug and remove a stud to drain. But I prefer having/cleaning the magnet, gives a good indicator if diff condition and like I said, when properly torqued to spec, have never see one back out, even when mostly worn away. I do carry a spare plug, but have never had to use it.
Anyone here using 90341-18060?
No, but I just had chromoly drain plug rings added to the diffs. Mine were ground down to the heads.
