chug chug chug....WHOOSH! (1 Viewer)

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Nov 9, 2003
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The good news: I got a new 40!! Found a 1978 that's in damn fine condition; one owner, 46,000 original miles, good top (has never been removed...this won't last long). I'm jumping outta my shoes!! :D Drives like a champ.

My question is this: Whenenver I shut the engine off after it's been running for 10 minutes or so, the engine sputters and chugs for a while and then makes this loud "WHOOOOSH!!!" sound before it stops all together. It's more than just a whoosh, but that's the best I can come up with! It can be pretty loud....and doesn't happen unless it's been running for about 5-10 minutes or more. The Cruiser has the stock 2F but it looks like the previous owner put a Weber carb on recently. (The choke cable is cut and laying next to the carb, and there is a wire coming out of what I thought was the were the choke hooks up.....is this an electronic choke?)

Thanks in advance for any ideas.
 
I don't know, but it sounds like what we used to call &#039:Dieseling' when I was much younger, back in the 70's when the automakers hadn't quite figured out how to make smogged vehicles properly run. You'd get a little 'run on' after you'd killed the ignition where you might get a little fuel still being pulled through and firing off from heat, either in the cylinders, or maybe that last whoosh is from the exhaust manifold.

I have a '78 2F in my cruiser, and the factory manifold actually would somewhat 'recirculate' the exhaust gases within manifold passages, in order to more completely burn the spent fuel. There's also air injection taking place right at the exhaust valve in order to promote this combustion. That's how Toyota met the U.S. smog laws in 1978 without a catalytic converter, when most other new vehicle had them.

Now hopefully someone else with more real-world knowledge than I have will chime in about what particular aspect of tuning or repair you should focus your efforts towards.

Lastly, congrats on the new rig, and enjoy the process of ownership!
 
What's your temperature gauge have to say? How long does it keep chugging after you turn it off? I'm wondering if it's doing a little Dieseling.
What condition is the smog equipment in? Did the person who installed the Weber make provisions for the all those lines?
My guess is that it's running hot which is making it diesel when you shut it off and the whoosing sound is the sound of the air entering the carb getting resticted by the closing throttle plate.
Start looking for reasons it might be running hot (enough coolant, functioning water pump + thermostat, partially operative smog equipment, ... lots of things). You might also want to check the electric choke. Make it's operative properly and not stuck.
Keep us posted.
 
One more reason to run an Aisin carb... Fuel cut-off solenoid... 8)
When working properly it stops the motor regardless.

Congratulations on the '78. That's one of the better 40s.
 
yep,
dieseling. happens on my 72 fj40 every once in a while. not real sure why though, ha ha.

congrats on the cruiser, get some pics up!!!


malphrus
 
check the timing, run on it more than often timing out of adjustment or points not set correct or a carb problem(like that weber)

timing 1st
 
Wow....this is a great list of things to try. I should have some time this weekend, so I'll keep you all posted.

Lusedekache: Funny you should mention temperature. The gauge never quite gets to the halfway point "C----|--------H", but it seems kinda hot to me. Also, the radiator is good and full, but the resevoir has run almost empty in 2 days. I can feel a good amount of heat radiating from the hood when I walk around the truck. I ordered a thermostat and should have it by Saturday.

As for the Weber, I looked it up on the web and it looks like you can get the fuel cut off solenoid as an option. Checked mine and it's not there.....DOH!!
 
Yeah, keep an eye on your resevoir and coolant level.
Take a look at your oil just to make sure it's not cloudy which could indicate a leak in the cylinder head or gasket (you haven't seen any white smoke coming out of the tailpipe, have you?). Also check the other obvious places for a coolant leak (especially the hoses & the water pump housing). Might also want to eye your heaters. A pressure check of the cooling system wouldn't hurt at this point.
I'm a bit concerned about the heat you are describing as you walk around the vehicle. If it's so hot that you can feel it form a distance I'm wondering if your temp sending unit is faulty.
I don't know much about Webers, especially how the cut-off solenoids work, but it sounds like something worth investigating. I'm sure someone on the forum will be able to give you some more info on that.
 
I had a couple of hours to play with the Cruiser today and now one problem turns into another! I thought I'd replace the thermostat....quick and easy thing to rule out. The problem I'm having now is I can't get the thermostat cover to seal properly. I've been through 2 gaskets and some gasket seal with no luck. It appears that someone before me had changed out the thermostat and really did a number on the bottom half of the thermostat cover. It's all good and chunked up. I think they had used some type of clear, silicone like sealer to make up for this. The gasket seal that I used seemed to work long enough for the system to become a little warm and pressurize. One trip around the block and I was loosing coolant.

Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use?
 
not sure if this would work, but how about 2 gaskets?




JasonFJ40 said:
I had a couple of hours to play with the Cruiser today and now one problem turns into another! I thought I'd replace the thermostat....quick and easy thing to rule out. The problem I'm having now is I can't get the thermostat cover to seal properly. I've been through 2 gaskets and some gasket seal with no luck. It appears that someone before me had changed out the thermostat and really did a number on the bottom half of the thermostat cover. It's all good and chunked up. I think they had used some type of clear, silicone like sealer to make up for this. The gasket seal that I used seemed to work long enough for the system to become a little warm and pressurize. One trip around the block and I was loosing coolant.

Does anyone have any recommendations on what to use?
 
Certainly worth a try!
 
Sorry it took so long to update this....

I got the thermostat case to seal again. I had to remove the top o-ring that shipped with the new thermostat, but I guess that will only cause the LC to run a little cooler. (I may change my tone in winter when I can't get any heat!)

As for the diesling, I'm crossing my fingers! I did some searching and came across a fuel additive called Techron. I dumped a bottle of that in the tank the last time I filled up and the dieseling has gone away. If that's all it takes, then I'm one lucky fool.
 
You do want that O-ring. OR you might just as well take your thermostat out!
 
Good point.... I think I need to find a "thinner" o-ring then. The one that shipped with the thermostat is preventing the case from sealing. Maybe I'll try to shave the ring down a little.

I'm going to flush the cooling system as soon as I have some time, so I'll just wait until then!

Thanks for all the help.
 
You do not need a thinner O ring, you need to replace your thermo housing. Unless you live in an area that is sunny all of the time i.e. no use of your heater, you need that (as in the one that came with it) O ring. And besides, even if you do live in a sunny area, fix it right. If you cannot afford thermo housing, get a gasket and then use some very very high quality liquid gasket/sealer to make up for the hack job on the thermo housing. I would imagine though you can get a used themo housing for little money.

In terms of your "dieseling" effect, it is most often a carb setting that does that i.e. too rich of a mixture that is leaving too much vapor/residual fuel in the chamber. Check you idle mixture screw and make sure it is set to specs.

Congrats on your purchase.
 
Another reason to keep the thermostat is it helps to regulate coolant flow, if you don't have it in ther the back cylinders get less flow because all of the coolant goes right through the front part of the water jacket.
 
FLFJ40 said:
Another reason to keep the thermostat is it helps to regulate coolant flow, if you don't have it in ther the back cylinders get less flow because all of the coolant goes right through the front part of the water jacket.

Very good point. A motor can run hotter if the thermostat has been removed, sounds strange, but it's true.
 

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