Builds Chronicles of a Cruiser (1 Viewer)

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Not a hard job, I had to do mine, it went well without issue !

Do your self a favor put the gasket sealer around the bolt hole not just in the grooves like the video shows ;)

It’s easy! Just make sure you clean it very well before applying new. I also made sure each bolt had a dollop of FIPG on it before sticking inside the hole.
I also thought it was weird to not do a continuous line around the whole pan as shown in the video. Glad to hear real world it is an easy job.
 
Ignition system tune up for Christmas.
Ho-ho-ho
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And a new distributor O-ring while I'm in there.
 
Christmas has been installed. Nice little gadget. Had one for many years in my 2005 tacoma and I’m sure I’ll like it in this vehicle.
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The awesome part about mounting the scan gauge here is I now have console mood lighting like the modern Toyotas because of the way I cut the bracket.

Copied this design.
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Oh for sure. That was with the headlights off in my dim garage. When the headlights turn on it dims very well and there is lots of adjustment to set it to your preferences.
 
Nice little surprise today when swapping plug wires, cap and rotor. Cylinder 6 spark plug tube had about an inch of oil in it and the plug wire stem left behind its rubber grommet which is lodged around the plug down in the tube.

Parts on order include long picks and hemostat pliers for extraction. Valve cover gasket, 6 plug tube gaskets, throttle body gasket. All the small heater hoses, phh, and heater valve.
 
Tear down.
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The aftermarket seals were trash. Three of the spark plug seals stayed in place when removing the valve cover. Got lots of heater hoses to replace then I’ll get it back together.

That valve train is CLEAN though… 😀
 
Also ordered the LCP rear heater bypass kit. My steel lines are not healthy looking on the firewall. This will be more piece of mind and is much easier to handle while the valve cover and throttle body are removed.

I’m not thrilled about blocking the rear heat but it seems to be the best method right now to not worry about the hard lines giving out. I may bypass the firewall hard lines with some soft line to keep the rear heater.

LCP rear heater delete
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The hard lines at the firewall still exist pn 87209-60301. If I ever have to pull the transmission I’ll replace them and restore the rear heat to OEM.
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Job complete and successful.

Few notes:
Valve cover bolt torque 10NM (7.36ft lb). Felt plenty tight but I’ll retorque after a few heat cycles.

I kept the rear heat for now because, on closer inspection of the hard lines, the corrosion seems to only be surface rust and the pipe ends where the soft lines connect were perfect. For the 1/2” lines on the firewall I used Toyota PN 15778-62030 as recommended by OGBeno in This post. I’ll have the rear heat bypass kit in my tool kit for a rainy day.

Every soft line heater hose in this thing is now new!
Radiator is new, fan clutch is new, heater control valve is new. Should have a very healthy cooling system. All clamps are now Toyota constant tension style.

Of course while I was in there it got new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. As well as various vacuum lines.
 
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New high pressure power steering line and return installed today. What a pain that was with only removing the battery and tray.
 
30 min job including putting tools away.
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Next
-Fender flair seals on all for corners
-Extended brake lines and LSPV.
 
Flare seal repair is underway. I’m fighting two of the flared nuts that are corroded and will not let loose. Got one with the dremel but the last one of course is the bolt at the lower back of the front passenger side. It’s going to be a nightmare to get at with the dremel but it must be done, tomorrow.

Any ideas for that last bolt would be greatly appreciated
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I did look at that option but it looks like there is a nice seal between the fender and fender well along the fender arch. The panels are so nice on this one I don’t want to break that seal.
 
Success. I got to the flare nut with the dremel by removing the air box and inner fender snorkel. The flexible dremel extension was very helpful.

I’ll get it all cleaned up and then back together when the new flare bolts show up.
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Well I’m glad that’s done. What I thought was going to be a 4hr project turned into many hours to do it to my level of correct. Cleaning the old goop off was a bear.
The last picture is how I had to repair the stripped flare bolt. JB weld did the trick perfectly. :/

Overall the new seals came out near perfect.

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