chopping long side 60 ff axle housing to 40 length

[folsom50]

(REAR) Looks like a fairly minor task. After alot of searching I've come up with a somewhat wide variety of axle widths, but looking at the spider gear wear pattern on the axle splines it looks like I could be upwards of .750" narrow on the long side without getting in trouble (as long as the 40 spline length is as sloppy as the 60 series.) That being said, I'm planning on right at 3 inches.

Anyone see any problems with a 3.00 long side chop on a ff housing and cable lockers?

 

[3_puppies]

no crap! I just talked with a guy about doing this to a semi float rear for a 45 project.

I was thinking halfway between the end and the diff, butt weld then brace.

 

[folsom50]

I haven't looked that hard at a SF, but on a FF the spindle has a short spud on the back side that slips into the axle tube. It would be like doing a cut and turn, only no turn and a 3 inch chop instead. If you have a sf housing there, I would look at the inside of the tube to see if it's built the same way. Personally, I think things would be way more structurally sound if you work off one end vs. cutting out the middle of a tube.

 

[Vicm]

How about a trade ,
I have one for a 40 and need one for a 60.
This is set up for discs ,
pm me if interested.

 

[folsom50]

How about a trade ,
I have one for a 40 and need one for a 60.
This is set up for discs ,
pm me if interested.

Thanks for the offer, but you wouldn't be happy with what showed up at your door step.

 

[folsom50]

The biggest problem you will run into is keeping the housing aligned.

Last year, I did something similar to an FJ80 rear full float axle. I found only one shop that wanted to attempt it. ~$200 later and I had a great housing. Too bad my project went another direction

Read your thread before. Thanks for verifying what I figured would be the biggest hiccup, keeping the spindle square to the tube.

 

[belaw]

The biggest problem you will run into is keeping the housing aligned.

Last year, I did something similar to an FJ80 rear full float axle. I found only one shop that wanted to attempt it. ~$200 later and I had a great housing. Too bad my project went another direction

Read your thread before. Thanks for verifying what I figured would be the biggest hiccup, keeping the spindle square to the tube.

I've looked at doing something like this, and the catch is that this is not a common mod. Lots of shops have the jigs and fixtures to shorten a 14-bolt or Dana rear axle, but they may not want to touch a Toyota axle.

When all the dust settles it may be easier to find a FF 40 axle and then sell your existing 60 axle.

 

[folsom50]

I've looked at doing something like this, and the catch is that this is not a common mod. Lots of shops have the jigs and fixtures to shorten a 14-bolt or Dana rear axle, but they may not want to touch a Toyota axle.

When all the dust settles it may be easier to find a FF 40 axle and then sell your existing 60 axle.

I understand what you're saying, the thing is this tube is rusty as heck. The locker still workes and the tube is still very solid, but alot of the important 60 stuff isn't worth salvaging...e-brake and sway bar tabs, etc. Think Canadian rust. (actually it came from Denmark)

I paid less for a complete set of cable-locking axles than two ARB lockers by themselves. The front is perfect, but the rear has seen some better days. I wouldn't feel good about charging anyone anything for the rear housing, so giving it away would be my only option. So I'm sitting with a free housing, what's the harm in trying?

 

[Sputnik40]

Not sure if this is related - but I'm in the process of lengthening a front FJ60 housing using a adapter/sleeve that someone made. After pulling the knuckle on the passenger side - you can clearly see where the inside was machined round to allow for the knuckle to be pressed in. The machining removed a negligible amount of material - say far less than 1/32" - and goes about 1" deep into the housing - but am sure that it's done to get the inner ID as close as possible to the knuckle OD. Further in would guess that the axle is not 100% round as it's really two halves welded together. Am thinking the rear axle is very similar - and after you cut a 3" section out - the ID may be smaller than the spindle you want to weld in. Just reinforces a possible issue that might hinder getting the spindle lined up - as commented on above - but I'd consider that a minor issue. Definitely doable.

 

[belaw]

I understand what you're saying, the thing is this tube is rusty as heck. The locker still workes and the tube is still very solid, but alot of the important 60 stuff isn't worth salvaging...e-brake and sway bar tabs, etc. Think Canadian rust. (actually it came from Denmark)

I paid less for a complete set of cable-locking axles than two ARB lockers by themselves. The front is perfect, but the rear has seen some better days. I wouldn't feel good about charging anyone anything for the rear housing, so giving it away would be my only option. So I'm sitting with a free housing, what's the harm in trying?

Make sense. Be sure and post up a step by step "how to" when you are finished (with pics!)

Also, how in the world did you end up buying a set of axles from Denmark? Shipping must have been a killer!

 

[folsom50]

Well I guess that was simple enough. I stopped by my local machine shop where a buddy is the shop supervisor, I wanted to get his thoughts on the project. He's narrowed a bunch of housings for the drag car guys when they tub their rears to run slicks, and had no reservations about doing mine. It'll run me about $100 to have it done right, so he wins the job. But, it also means there won't be much of a step by step with pics from me, sorry.