Choosing new radiator FJ60 -4 core repairable or 3 core aluminum (1 Viewer)

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I searched threads but no luck with this, if someone can point me to one that`s great. My gut tells me to just go with the 4 core brass soldered/repairable even though they seem to run about $400 (fjparts and CCOT). The 3 core aluminum are less than $300 (CruiserCorps) and some on ebay less than $200. My first concern is which is better for me....I`m not an off roader though here in CR 4x4 is pretty much mandatory as soon as you leave the pavement. I live in the relatively cool mountains so air temps will rarely be a factor. I guess my main concern with the aluminum rads is that is seem leaks are not repairable (at least not here). Even though they are lighter, dissipate heat better (so they say) and look really cool I am shying away from them BUT I would welcome any real life knowledge as to choosing one or the other. Thanks!
 
I searched threads but no luck with this, if someone can point me to one that`s great. My gut tells me to just go with the 4 core brass soldered/repairable even though they seem to run about $400 (fjparts and CCOT). The 3 core aluminum are less than $300 (CruiserCorps) and some on ebay less than $200. My first concern is which is better for me....I`m not an off roader though here in CR 4x4 is pretty much mandatory as soon as you leave the pavement. I live in the relatively cool mountains so air temps will rarely be a factor. I guess my main concern with the aluminum rads is that is seem leaks are not repairable (at least not here). Even though they are lighter, dissipate heat better (so they say) and look really cool I am shying away from them BUT I would welcome any real life knowledge as to choosing one or the other. Thanks!
I run a mishimoto aluminum in my current 60 and previous 62, and they were both great. They also have a lifetime warranty.
 
I would also look at the CSF replacement available here:


Another thing with aluminum is you have to properly ground it using a ground strap to prevent cooling system corrosion. Some sort of science to it to do with aluminum mixing with cast iron. Lots of folks swear by aluminum but if you want a drop in replacement for your factory radiator, CSF is a solid choice. I am not sure about repairability though. Aluminum prolly does a better overall job of cooling but I went with the linked radiator and so far have been happy with it. The ones they make now have a transmission cooler in it but you don't have to use it. I just plugged mine. Some folks have said on here has said they had some issues with the CSF with leaks or quality. Its much like the original radiator but prolly not as well made. So far mine has proven fine. GL and HTH.
 
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Aluminum radiators are cheaper to manufacture than the brass/copper jobs of yesteryear. If you look at modern day vehicles, they come with aluminum or plastic radiators for the most part.

Major differences:
  • Aluminum mounts can crack where brass will bend or not deform at all
  • Aluminum radiators can set up corrosive electrolysis which can be remedied by grounding it to the body
  • Aluminum radiators can't be brazed or spot soldered to fix a leak
  • The top tank of an aluminum radiator can't be removed to rod out clogged cooling tubes, where the brass radiator top tank can easily be taken off & soldered back on (by a radiator repair shop)
In my experience, by the time a brass radiator needs soldering repairs, it's on it's last leg anyway, like a really old person. You might patch up one spot, but another leak is right around the corner.
Personally I never used an aluminum radiator on the 60. The CSF is an identical drop in to the OEM radiator and looks exactly the same in every detail. That right there gets brownie points in my book
 
I had a CSF that worked so so. Looks like a 40 year old radiator in 4 years after the leaks and coating issues. Not worth the premium.


I’m using a champion 4 core now. It works well in the Texas heat.


I will be going with an overseas oem radiator eventually. $600 shipped and maybe I’ll have it until we run out of affordable gas.
 
In 2008 I replaced my original Toyota radiator (23 years old) with a brand new genuine Toyota radiator I bought at the dealership. Five years later it had completely disintegrated. All the copper fins crumbled like they were pastry flakes. It was the worst piece of crap radiator of all time and it was from Toyota.
I also had a friend who has a 62 that had a leaking Toyota radiator, he went through three of them, one offer the other cuz all of them had pinhole leaks.
Replacing a radiator in a 62 is no walk in the park. He was livid by the time #3 failed.

The crap Toyota was selling as replacement radiators in the past was an understatement. It was beyond junk
 
@mattressking may have the number handy. I’ll look as well.

 

Ah crap...yes I think I recall seeing this at the time. Had forgotten about this. Coming back to me now. Thanks for the link.
 
Ah crap...yes I think I recall seeing this at the time. Had forgotten about this. Coming back to me now. Thanks for the link.
Other than aluminum it seems my choices are CSF, fjparts or CoolCruisersofTexas. They are all about $400....and who knows, maybe they are all the exact same radiator?
 
Other than aluminum it seems my choices are CSF, fjparts or CoolCruisersofTexas. They are all about $400....and who knows, maybe they are all the exact same radiator?

Did you look at the link I posted? The link I posted was under $300 through RockAuto for the CSF. There are prolly other ways to get the CSF even cheaper if you look around:

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Both FJP and CCOT's options are aftermarket. Not sure who their supplier is but AFAIK CSF or OEM is the only game in town for brass. Someone can maybe check me here. Maybe the shipping situation to Costa Rica changes things for you cost wise and I have admittedly not checked on shipping there or even if RA ships there at all. But if money is a concern the CSF will get you through. I am not advocating for one or the other, just know the CSF so far works for me and as @OSS point out is a completely drop in replacement for OEM. Have had plenty of folks have great results with Aluminum as well so ether way works. I am more of a purist on the parts I buy for mine so thats mostly why I went with the CSF. Sounds like you are leaning towards aluminum.
 
Did you look at the link I posted? The link I posted was under $300 through RockAuto for the CSF. There are prolly other ways to get the CSF even cheaper if you look around:

View attachment 2413624

Both FJP and CCOT's options are aftermarket. Not sure who their supplier is but AFAIK CSF or OEM is the only game in town for brass. Someone can maybe check me here. Maybe the shipping situation to Costa Rica changes things for you cost wise and I have admittedly not checked on shipping there or even if RA ships there at all. But if money is a concern the CSF will get you through. I am not advocating for one or the other, just know the CSF so far works for me and as @OSS point out is a completely drop in replacement for OEM. Have had plenty of folks have great results with Aluminum as well so ether way works. I am more of a purist on the parts I buy for mine so thats mostly why I went with the CSF. Sounds like you are leaning towards aluminum.
Thank you...yes, I went back to link and will try and order today. No aluminum... basically because if something goes wrong nobody here could fix it. Better to keep it simple.
 
I'm on #3. The original lasted 12 yrs. Went OEM for #2 and it didn't last. Current #3 CSF says made in Indonesia. One row split. Considering aluminum now. Yeah, pulling the rad on a 62 sucks.
 
Thank you...yes, I went back to link and will try and order today. No aluminum... basically because if something goes wrong nobody here could fix it. Better to keep it simple.
Aluminum Would be the easiest to fix, any quality welding shop or good farm boy with a tig welder could fix

that being said I have run aluminum and I have run brass

things I have learned

brass- stays cooler longer
Aluminum- cools off faster

have had more troubles keeping the aluminum rads cool than the brass ones. Yes they work but hey just don’t hold the heat off like the brass ones do.

also wrapping up LS swap #4, and my preferred rad for those swaps are stock landcruiser rads..... they work great and have more than enough cooling ability.
 
I run a mishimoto aluminum in my current 60 and previous 62, and they were both great. They also have a lifetime warranty.
Is the mishimoto a direct replacement, dimensionally? I have almost zero clearance over oem dimensions
 

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