Choke adjustment--What is stock? (1 Viewer)

[vtcruiser60]

I am about to install a new choke cable, but have no idea what the set-up should look like. I mean I know how to route the cable, but how tight should the cable be and what should the butterflies look like.

I got here, because I couldn't get the engine to calm down below 1200 at idle and noticed frayed choke cable wires and an overly sluggish acceleration linkage.

I appreciate the help...

 

[chitown40]

For your accelerator linkage, you pop the pieces apart, clean them, and lube them with just a little grease. As far as choke, if you have a stock cable, then it pretty much should adjust itself. Make sure when you pull the cable fully out, the butterfly closes almost completely, with just a hair open. Since it's a manual choke, it's not critical 'cause you can always push it back in if it starves for air a little. When it's completely in, the butteryfly should be open completely, or straight veritcal. Your fast idle with the engine cold should be at 1600rpm. If with the choke fully open, your idle will not drop below 1200rpm, you need to make sure the butteryfly is open all the way and then use the idle adjustment screw to bring it down. Sometimes if the a/c idle up diaphragm is adjusted incorrectly it can keep the throttle plate open too far and you won't be able to adjust the idle down enough with the screw. Idle should be at 650rpm or so. Also make sure your timing is correct and the idle mixture screw is between 2 and 4 turns out. You can use a vac gauge to set this. The FSM states to use the lean drop method, but I'll have to pull out the manual to accurately describe how to do it if you need me to.

 

[vtcruiser60]

Wow, man thank you very much.

I am going to a salvage yard this afternoon to pick some parts, and will be away from the FSM to do this repair. If you have a chance and wouldn't mind describing the lean drop method, I would be really appreciative.

At this point of farking around with the adjustment screws, I am way off of anything stock.

 

[WALoeIII]

Wow, man thank you very much.

I am going to a salvage yard this afternoon to pick some parts, and will be away from the FSM to do this repair. If you have a chance and wouldn't mind describing the lean drop method, I would be really appreciative.

At this point of farking around with the adjustment screws, I am way off of anything stock.

I'm kinda lazy but you can find scans of the FSM online, I think SOR and brirfield.com (definatly spelled that wrong!) both have them available.

 

[WALoeIII]

By the way, where in VT are you? Sporin is in Norwich, and I'm just across the river in Hanover, NH.

 

[chitown40]

Ok, vt, here's the short version since my fingers are already sore from a hard day of typing at work..

Per FSM:

Air cleaner installed
NOrmal operating temp.
Choke fully open
All accessories off
All vac lines connected
TIMING set correctly (important)
Trans in N
Fuel level in carb set even with line in sight glass

Start engine and use screwdriver to set idle mixture screw counterclockwise until engine reaches max. speed. Set idle MIXTURE speed by turn idle adjustment screw now to 690rpm. Readjust idle mixture screw until maximum speed is reached again, then set to idle mix. speed again at 690rpm. Keep doing this until you cannot adjust the engine speed any higher using the idle mixture screw. Then set the idle mixture screw clockwise until idle goes down to 650rpm.

I got mine to set correctly with about 3 turn out on the idle mixture screw. My idle most of the time is right at 650-680 range, although occasionally after driving a bit on the highway it will only come down to about 750rpm. I can live with the small fluxuation, although it only happens on occasion. I'm pulling about 19mmHG of vacuum at idle with timing set at 7deg. BTDC.

Good luck.

Rob