Buy a new short block.
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Yes, go out and spend $3000 because of a orange-seed-sized chip in a single pistonBuy a new short block.
I just figured with the pistons already out and one with an obvious defect, might as well replace them. If money is tight you're right, the current ones could go back in, or you could just swap the damaged one. At the same time, if I was going to all this effort, I'd change them out while I was in there, otherwise there wasn't much point in this entire exercise IMO.You won’t necessarily need new pistons...
I have rebuilt a 1FZ before and it was basically strip everything down, hot tank it, had the block decked and honed, fitted new bearings, piston rings (using stock pistons) and a full Toyota gasket kit. Cost me less than $1000 and a couple of weekends, still going strong years later.
Assuming this guy knocks the sharp edges off the defect, what in your opinion would he be risking by using that piston? I agree with the "well you've come this far" train of thought but this doesn't seem to fit the cheaping out option. Given the application of the piston I don't see a pit in top being anything worth noting.I just figured with the pistons already out and one with an obvious defect, might as well replace them. If money is tight you're right, the current ones could go back in, or you could just swap the damaged one. At the same time, if I was going to all this effort, I'd change them out while I was in there, otherwise there wasn't much point in this entire exercise IMO.
Risking? In my opinion, nothing at all. The cheap option though would have been to leave it as it was. If you've got the bottom end in pieces already, and you're talking about honing the bores, I don't see any point in not finishing the job and replacing the pistons at the same time. After that, you can say you've properly rebuilt the bottom end to last another 200,000 at least, either for your own piece of mind, or to tell a new owner if you sell it in the future. What's the cost of a piston for the 1FZ from a supplier in the US? Looks like about $50 genuine through partsouq. If I was already rebuilding the bottom end, I'd personally drop that on new pistons, or at the very least that one.Assuming this guy knocks the sharp edges off the defect, what in your opinion would he be risking by using that piston? I agree with the "well you've come this far" train of thought but this doesn't seem to fit the cheaping out option. Given the application of the piston I don't see a pit in top being anything worth noting.
Aren't these "Plateau Honed" where the finish hone is super- fine to use chome rings without wearing them out in the break-in process? Can use iron rings but I'd as soon use the existing rings if they are still good as the iron rings don't last nearly as long but will break in on almost any finish. I believe NPR may be oem supplier.Honing the bores can be done at home, but if you've never done a single one before, I wouldn't recommend trying it unassisted for the very first time on an engine block you care about. As for the crank, I personally wouldn't attempt to polish that at home under any circumstances. The kind of gear required to do that properly is beyond the scope of what can be done at home, you're likely to do more harm than good IMO. It cost me about $80 to get the crank inspected and polished by a proper crank specialist when I did a rebuild. Well worth the cash spent in that area. You need that surface to be perfectly smooth and perfectly round. Going at it with a bit of emery paper in the backyard is not a good idea. There are tricks that probably work ok in a pinch, but why cheap out on this one area, when those working surfaces are the most precise and important in the entire engine?
The engine has been running been how long like that? We don’t even know. Lol. It’s fine.
hmmm, that s*** ain't rightCan I haz your engine?
If you were closer I'd sell you my just finished rebuild and have fun doing it again with yours in partial trade.