fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
I am chewing up ANY stabilizer kit I install on the front suspension- Anyone have any idea why I might be chewing through those stabilizer links in 3-4 months?
Chewing Through Front Stabilizer Links (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fooldall1
- Start date
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
The sway bar bushings or what? Pics of what chewing up means?
Hi neighbor. You're what now? Stabilizer kit??
GTV
SILVER Star
Your sig states you have a 1.5" lift. Do you have extended end links to match?
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
- Thread starter
- #6
Yes, sorry. The links on the Lower control arm and shock base; By chewed up, I mean- after 3-4 months the rubber or whatever other type of rubber in that link (those links, rather) get so destroyed they clink metal-to-metal.
Sorry, should explain better- The REAR springs lifted the rear about that much and I adjusted the torsion bars to compensate.
Search SAS here? OK, Will do. Any advice to that end?
Hi Neighbor! What part of BR do you live?
GTV
SILVER Star
If you adjusted the front height to match the rear then you need longer end links to return the sway bar to its correct geometry.
If it's the rubber bushing in lower part of front stabilizer link, held by one bolt in LCA bracket. Make sure you put vehicle on ground (weight on tires, places vehicle in it's neutral stance) before torquing bolt to 38ft-lbf.
If you torque link lower bolt while wheel(s) hanging due to vehicle on jack-stands. It will turn (load) rubber of bushing in link 20 to 30 degrees, when placed back on ground.
This is same for lower shock bolt also all factory control arms. Torque all in, while vehicle neutral position, or bushing fail prematurely.
If you torque link lower bolt while wheel(s) hanging due to vehicle on jack-stands. It will turn (load) rubber of bushing in link 20 to 30 degrees, when placed back on ground.
This is same for lower shock bolt also all factory control arms. Torque all in, while vehicle neutral position, or bushing fail prematurely.
AZMoonshadow
SILVER Star
I had a similar problem after I installed a Dobinson's lift on my 2000 LC. This was the answer.
Chowcares is a YouTuber that has done a number of LC repair videos. (He has links to the parts in his write-up) Also, in the video, he only replaces the front bushings. Since a traditional lift kit also affects the rear, you should replace those as well. Trail Tailor sells the rear links. I ended up buying the rear sway bar bushings from Toyota as I had trouble verifying the part. The ride quality improved as well.
Chowcares is a YouTuber that has done a number of LC repair videos. (He has links to the parts in his write-up) Also, in the video, he only replaces the front bushings. Since a traditional lift kit also affects the rear, you should replace those as well. Trail Tailor sells the rear links. I ended up buying the rear sway bar bushings from Toyota as I had trouble verifying the part. The ride quality improved as well.
I have the standard length links with 1.5” lift. I got 2 years out of mine, they were cheap - can’t recall the brand. Make sure you don’t over torque them on the install. I just installed these Moog units. They have poly bushings and are very stout. I expect they’ll last longer, but we’ll see.
When you cranked the front T-Bar adjuster bolts to add lift to the front did you just count the number of bolt turns or did you actually measure front lift height with wheels back on the ground to make sure driver and passenger heights were exactly equal after the adjustment? If ride heights are not equal, the sway bar link bushings will be in constant compression, upper bushing on one side and lower on the opposite side, rather than only intermittantly when wheels are hitting bumps or holes or while cornering. This would accelerate bushing wear.
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
- Thread starter
- #12
Damn- did not do this. It makes perfect sense.
Follow up question: I came to understand that a .5" rake was recommended - but, it should NOT have the 1/2 inch rake?
I actually used both the DA AND the Moog kit with the same results. Learned a lesson though. I'll pick up a new Moog kit again and use the recommendations from the other posts. Thanks, Ya'll.
The more "rake" (front lower than rear) the better. Rate reduce HWY wondering. Wondering is where we must constantly adjust steering wheel. Wondering is also caused be a number of other out of spec components.
We shoot for rake of 3/4" or better.
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