Chewed up OME Bushing. WTF! (1 Viewer)

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I don't recall ever seeing a factory bushing that has failed posted on here.


Well, then let me be the first! I had an upper panhard bushing just collapse. It would make this weird knocking noise and led to some nasty death wobble. I went with the Slee Blues to fix it and they have held up well for the 6 months they have been in there.

I am really Jonesing for some Slee leading arms-I'd probably ask for the version with the factory bushings.
 
Well, then let me be the first! I had an upper panhard bushing just collapse. It would make this weird knocking noise and led to some nasty death wobble. I went with the Slee Blues to fix it and they have held up well for the 6 months they have been in there.

I am really Jonesing for some Slee leading arms-I'd probably ask for the version with the factory bushings.

A whole 6 months :flipoff2:

I really didn't think they were indestructible but they are nothing I would throw away for a poly bushing if still in good shape.
 
Were they greased properly on install? They look awfully dry. You need zerk fittings in each end.


Where are these zirk fittings?
 
The OME bushings do not have grease fittings, you grease them prior, and I guess that's it :meh:

I thought the Adj. Rear Panhard, or rear panhards in general, from 80 and 100 series were the same ... :doh:
 
OME are the best marketed products for 4wd's, not the best product, the best marketed product.....

If you wan tthe panhard to flex more [not really required unless your running longer than OME shocks] fit a swivel to the panhard to reduce any twist.

Castor correction is easy slotting the front holes, Im surprised no one has weld ons with a spigott to fill the existing holes yet for this easy mod, as it works really well, and given the 2 bushes are equal distance out from the centre line, there are no "alignment" of axle issues that need attention, and slotting 14mm gets your 2 degree's, to use standard CC bushes, when i tested the poly bushes early 90's for ARb on beta deign 3 and 4, I couldnt get them to last longer than a weekend...
 
OME are the best marketed products for 4wd's, not the best product, the best marketed product.....

If you wan tthe panhard to flex more [not really required unless your running longer than OME shocks] fit a swivel to the panhard to reduce any twist.

Castor correction is easy slotting the front holes, Im surprised no one has weld ons with a spigott to fill the existing holes yet for this easy mod, as it works really well, and given the 2 bushes are equal distance out from the centre line, there are no "alignment" of axle issues that need attention, and slotting 14mm gets your 2 degree's, to use standard CC bushes, when i tested the poly bushes early 90's for ARb on beta deign 3 and 4, I couldnt get them to last longer than a weekend...

Are you talking about drilling new holes on those front control arm brackets, to adjust for caster ... I don't think I fully understand what you're saying.
 
You slot the front diff brackets 14mm, to get 2 deg castor adjustment, and fit 2 steel tags and weld them on in the new position.

rubyfrontcastorcorrection.jpg
 
You slot the front diff brackets 14mm, to get 2 deg castor adjustment, and fit 2 steel tags and weld them on in the new position.

rubyfrontcastorcorrection.jpg

The infamous "washer mod". We don't weld in the US. It has to bolt on so we can unbolt it when it doesn't work so we can sell it to the next guy. Fortunately 2-3 year old OME stuff still fetches 60 cents on the dollar 'round here, which is about the value brand new.

2 degrees isn't enough for most, hence the caster plates. Landtank's are adjustable for lift height, i.e. the user drills the holes. Nice setup.

Problem for many of us is our rigs started out with OME and OME cc bushings, and to go back to factory bushings and then correct caster is expensive, so we try more plastic stuff :grinpimp:.
 
That is exactly what I pictured in my head. I think of these things and people have always already done them. So this mod will ad 2 degrees of CC? What about trying half that, and eliminate the welded bracket. I wonder if there is room?
 
Don't slot the holes, it really is a hack solution. If all you need is what that provides get the Slee blue bushings and press them in with one of my templates. That way all the variables that change with rotating the axle are addressed properly.
 
Can I see a picture of your template Landtank? I searched and couldn't come up with one ... Thanks ...

So ARB, Inc. has the pictures, and he's, I guess deciding on what to do. The two panhard bushings were only $22 plus shipping, so it's no biggie, but I want them to know what happened. Even if it's only for reference.
 
Thanks Tank. I already installed the OME CC's and I think she's pretty spot on. I really don't want to push those out, just to install blues, and gain a degree of caster. I would rather drill a couple of holes, and be done, I think that Ausie guy has the right ideas, IMO ... Either that or buy the slee plates ...
 
Don't slot the holes, it really is a hack solution. If all you need is what that provides get the Slee blue bushings and press them in with one of my templates. That way all the variables that change with rotating the axle are addressed properly.

what other issues ?


what differs between slotting a hole, and drilling one ?

2everest said:
Thanks Tank. I already installed the OME CC's and I think she's pretty spot on. I really don't want to push those out, just to install blues, and gain a degree of caster. I would rather drill a couple of holes, and be done, I think that Ausie guy has the right ideas, IMO ... Either that or buy the slee plates ...


Correct, some supposed solutions are over thought, for the sake of over thinking them.
 
what other issues ?


what differs between slotting a hole, and drilling one ?

we've been down this road a few times and I don't see an reason to travel it again.

You like the solution that's fine, I don't and have backed my reasons up with CAD drawings to help you understand why. If you haven't gotten it yet then I don't think you will.
 
we've been down this road a few times and I don't see an reason to travel it again.

You like the solution that's fine, I don't and have backed my reasons up with CAD drawings to help you understand why. If you haven't gotten it yet then I don't think you will.

If you have had to explain your position before, How about a thread link, or pics and explanation for those here who may not understand it yet ?

Im open minded enough to see what your saying, in case Im missing something.
 
Maybe we should start a Castor Correction battler thread ...

Ok, so I received the email from ARB, Inc. I cannot post the exact email, because it is considered confidential. He said that they would replace the Panhard bushing kit I bought, which is nice. Then, one of engineers wrote up an explanation of what he thinks the cause might be.

1.) The bushings might need more grease, especially the front part of the bushing that tore off.

2.) The combination of L shocks and my medium springs that use, are causing too much articulation, and is causing the Panhard Rod to move more than intended, for the bushings. Hince, causing the bushings to rip apart.

I thanked them, but assured them that I did not particularly agree. I believe the bushings were greased properly, and for the spring/shocks reason, I do not think I have stretched the suspension enough to tear a bushing. But who knows. I want to switch to J's anyways, after I buy a couple Adj. panhard's.

I think the bushing was damaged before hand, or my bolt was too tight. :meh:

But it's all good, I get new one's :flipoff2:
 

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