chevy steering box (1 Viewer)

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peoria, az
Has anybody converted to one? i swapped in a v8 and am still using the toyota steering box. i have a chevy one ready to go. is there any benefit to this, and is it possible? its out of a 1 ton 1991 van. thanks, Chris
 
Having driven both I don't see any reason for such a swap. They're both good boxes.
 
Most of the old-school Chevy boxes, at least all those that came on vehicles with solid front axles, have the sector shaft coming off the right side of the box. This would mean mounting to the inside of the frame rail (problematic to say the least) and a much shorter drag link. I think the Toyota box is every bit as sturdy as the Saginaw box and you already have one.
 
No reason for this swap. Chances are by the time you fabbed, modded and adapted it the end result would be a negative overall not a positive.


Mark...
 
that's testimony enough. i can check that job off the list. what do you think about the master cylinder and booster off of the same 1 ton? and i see some soa's responding here, did you run the 4 degree shims? i did not, and am wandering more than i want to. i ran the 4x4 labs steering, remounted my sway bar, self aligned, and still feel a bit squirrely. i'm also having a hell of a time greasing the ball joints from the steering kit. i've swapped out zerks and still can't get grease to go. thanks, chris
 
Why would you set your SOA up to need shims? You should put your perches on and do your C&T so that everything is in proper alignment without the need for shims. Shims are a bandaid.


And... I guess, the same type question as to the booster and M/C... Why would you want to swap those in? No reason and no gain.

If you were talking about a hydro boost setup that might be different, depending on just what you had done to your rig. But really no reason to think that a Chevy booster and m/C are going to be some sort of improvement over what you have from the factory.


Mark...
 
i'm set at stock alignment. my t-case was moved so far back with the v8/4l80e swap that the pinion became a non factor. i thought the shims were for alignment and not for driveline purposes. or am i misunderstanding their purpose? thanks, Chris
 
i'm set at stock alignment. my t-case was moved so far back with the v8/4l80e swap that the pinion became a non factor. i thought the shims were for alignment and not for driveline purposes. or am i misunderstanding their purpose? thanks, Chris

The shims will change both since they are integral to the axle housing. That is why people do a cut and turn, meaning the axle is cut and the knuckles rotated independently of the rest of the axle, then welded in place again. That way you can have both the proper caster angle and driveline angle.
 
I understand the driveline angle, i soa'd with the original motor and trans, had an axle cut & turned for that angle, and promptly fell into a v8 setup and never used the axle, since the angle was then too much. my pinion angle is great now, with the t-case being pushed back 8 or so inches. i would like to avoid tearing into a freshly built axle if i can. is there a way to affect the caster angle without the cut and turn? or another way to tighten up the steering and wandering? thanks for your input, Chris
 
so i measured, anything more than a 4 degree turn, from stock, will be too much for the front driveline. do you think it's worth it? thanks
 

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