chevy alternator howto wire

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blackandbluefj

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Nov 1, 2004
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as it says how do i wire tis thing up. it is a cs-130 style and the downey book tells me to put the white 10 gauege to the single post then take 12 v from the battery post to the s terminal which from what i can tell is the same as the large whit wireand then find the 3 volt wire fromthe charge circuit. im confused someone shed a little light on me please.

thank you

bryon
 
there in lies thw problem unless i am reading something wrong that is different then what downey has in ther motor swap pamphlet that is why i need clarification and this is going into an fj60 i dont know if this is different than a 40


thanks
bryon
 
ok i got to get this thing together. I know the white goes to batt post on alt, but my white wire is actually to together on one ring connector do i just use the both of them still. and the only other wire ineed to hook up to it is the l post in the connector which is the charge light relay. I am assuming that this would be they yellow white wire off the toyota. and if so what do i do with the black wire. thanks all alamost over.


Bryon
 
come on someone, anyone am i the first to do this. so do i just plug these two white wires to the alternator or just the thicker one.

thanks all

bryon
 
I ran the white one (both of the thick white wires) to the battery, then to the alternator. I used the black/yellow wire as the exciter for the alternator. I also ran an additional thick gauge wire direct from alt to battery that does not go through the fusible link...(Gen II Vortec), seems OK so far, but I've only got about 150 miles or so on it.

HTH.
 
ok i am about ready to give up i have the terminal to bus bar and the stock toy wires to bus bar to battery now the black and yellow exciter wire i assume this should go into the l terminal of the alternator but when i test it it reads 12v and it should only read 3 volts from what i amm reading. what am i doing wrong.


thanks
Bryon
 
philos1 said:
I ran the white one (both of the thick white wires) to the battery, then to the alternator. I used the black/yellow wire as the exciter for the alternator. I also ran an additional thick gauge wire direct from alt to battery that does not go through the fusible link...(Gen II Vortec), seems OK so far, but I've only got about 150 miles or so on it.

HTH.
Click to expand...

I bet if you were able to post up a pic, that would make it easier for Byron to see how you made yours work. Just a thought...
 
yeah, I never checked if the black/yellow wire was 12 or 3 volts, but it's charging and the gauge shows a little over 12 volts, so...

do you have a FSM? I borrowed one when I did mine and that helped. sounds like everything else is right. Hang in there and you'll get it.

How's the rest of the swap coming?
 
everything is going just slower than i would like between work the two kids and the wife by the time i get deep enough into something to get anything accomplished i have to do something else. as for the fsm i have them for the toyota and the chevy just confusing as hell. everything else seems to be easy enough to wire its just this stupid alternator that is holding me up. well atleast one of the things. well off to the garage for a while now



thanks

Bryon
 
hang in there man. at the least, you can get it running/driving without the alternator charging it and get it to an auto electrician/etc???
 
yeah its just that i hate paying for something i think shoud be easy or someone has done. but that might just be what i have to do. while i'm here though do i need to use the neutral safety switch while using stock toyota tranny.

thanks all

Bryon
 
blackandbluefj said:
yeah its just that i hate paying for something i think shoud be easy or someone has done. but that might just be what i have to do. while i'm here though do i need to use the neutral safety switch while using stock toyota tranny.

thanks all

Bryon
Click to expand...

mine didn't have provisions for it, so I left whatever was on my 5 speed/chassis intact. if your harness has it (auto tranny?), there may be a way to bypass it or maybe use it as a theft deterrent?
sorry i'm not much help with this...
 
good luck olympia hopefully you get it so you can tell me how to do it. dont worry about it philos you have been great help so far up untill olympia i thought you were the only one on the web page.

thanks again
bryon
 
CS 144 installed

OK, finally got it all done. I will do a complete write up later.

For wiring, I used a 4ga battery cable from the alternator to the battery. I also connected the old factory "B" terminal back to the battery since it carries all the power to the wiring harness. There are several ways you can connect the wiring to the cs 130/cs 144 harness. If you want to use the charge light or add one, connect the "L" terminal from the alternator to the harness connector that was in the factory alternator "L" terminal. Now for the "S" terminal on the cs harness. This is the sense wire for the alternator and it helps maximise voltage output of the alternator. It is not necessary (GM didn't use it on the late 90s c/k trucks) but it will help. I connected mine to the "IG" terminal on the factory alternator harness. This gives me about 14.8 volts at 2500 rpm. You can also just put a ring terminal on it and connect it to the "B" terminal on the alternator.

Here are a few pics showing the harness. the "P" and "F" terminals are not used. I just used male blade terminals. I will then seal them in the factory harness. I want this to be reversible should I have alternator problems in the future or on the road.
cs 144 plug.JPG
cs 144 plug to factory.JPG
cs 144 plug terminals.JPG
 
that is what i figured would be the "L" to "L" but i read it should only put out like 3 volts or it will fry the alternator and mine reads battery voltage 12+. and on my chevy harness all i have is the "L" terminal what am i doing wrong thanks

Bryon
 
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