Chevy 350 mini starter (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter froggy
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Is trying a standard chevy starter possible? I've had GM starters (including one I had in my cruiser) do exactly what you describe. Oh and grounds, terminal corrosion, grounds, battery load test, grounds, etc.
bwalker16527
1974 FJ40 SBC V8 350 TH400
I had same issue. I upgraded size of battery cables, and replaced standard starter with high torque mini starter. CHEVY 305 350 454 Mini Starter Super Torque Series 3 HP MT200 from DB electrical. Works great now. No issues.
- Thread starter
- #4
Starter needs to be replaced, so I want to upgrade to mini starter to avoid hot starter problems. I got a new battery today and will also buy new wires. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll check for this starter right away!
bwalker16527
1974 FJ40 SBC V8 350 TH400
Make sure you mount the solenoid on the starter away from the engine and exhaust pipes. The mini starters are made to be able to rotate to several different positions.
Here's one...MG Industries Inc. It's the mean green starter.
What setup are you running?
The reason I ask is that I tried a mini starter years ago... the particular starter wouldn't fit with the Downey Belhousing, stock Toyota Trans, slave, and 168 tooth flywheel. I'm lucky the shop took it back since I didn't find out till it was installed... I just about ended up with a $300 paperweight. Unfortunately, 18 years later I can't tell you anything useful like the brand... or why.
What I can tell you is not all Chevy starters are created equal. There are some models with longer armatures. You can identify them by where the post that connects the starter solenoid to the armature comes out of the housing. The closer the post is to the 'end' of the starter the longer the armature is = higher torque starter.
Mine wouldn't start with a 'standard' starter. I had a local rebuilding shop build me one with a high torque armature, and a cast iron nose cone off an 'early 4 speed Corvette'... it works like a champ. I have even used it several times in the last +/- 20 years to move the 40 off the road when needed. I'd not want to do that often with a starter with a nosecone that doesn't support the gear.
$90 well spent, and many, many years later it has never let me down. Let I checked my compression was +/- 195 psi across the board. Therefore I feel confident it would start your rig... hot or not.
If you're running headers, make sure your starter is shielded from the heat they throw off.
BTW, welding shops have heavy guage 'cable' that make excellent custom cables.
The reason I ask is that I tried a mini starter years ago... the particular starter wouldn't fit with the Downey Belhousing, stock Toyota Trans, slave, and 168 tooth flywheel. I'm lucky the shop took it back since I didn't find out till it was installed... I just about ended up with a $300 paperweight. Unfortunately, 18 years later I can't tell you anything useful like the brand... or why.
What I can tell you is not all Chevy starters are created equal. There are some models with longer armatures. You can identify them by where the post that connects the starter solenoid to the armature comes out of the housing. The closer the post is to the 'end' of the starter the longer the armature is = higher torque starter.
Mine wouldn't start with a 'standard' starter. I had a local rebuilding shop build me one with a high torque armature, and a cast iron nose cone off an 'early 4 speed Corvette'... it works like a champ. I have even used it several times in the last +/- 20 years to move the 40 off the road when needed. I'd not want to do that often with a starter with a nosecone that doesn't support the gear.
$90 well spent, and many, many years later it has never let me down. Let I checked my compression was +/- 195 psi across the board. Therefore I feel confident it would start your rig... hot or not.
If you're running headers, make sure your starter is shielded from the heat they throw off.
BTW, welding shops have heavy guage 'cable' that make excellent custom cables.
I used the AA kit that uses a standard early starter, the one that bolts to the Chevy bell housing, rather than the block and all the shims that go with those.
An off the shelf reman starter worked perfectly for me. Before I had to park it so I could bump start it hot.
An off the shelf reman starter worked perfectly for me. Before I had to park it so I could bump start it hot.
Years ago when AA first came out with their alum. bellhousing, I put a 327 in my 40. It did the same you're talking about, so I took a green pad folded over and covered it with a cut up soup can, then fastened it to the solenoid so cooler air would get to it. The header was super heating it. Worked good for the eighties.
as already mentioned don't forget to check/upgrade/replace your battery cables while your at it I went through a few starter motors with hot start problems until I found I had a problem with the earth lead connection
