Chevy 3-wire vs 1-wire help and some misc remote solenoid help (1 Viewer)

[loosechange]

I have a 1972 (June 1972) J40 Toyota Land Cruiser.
350 chevy conversion.

This vehicle originally used external regulated alternator system. At the time eight years ago I wasn't very electrically inclined mostly just lazy really...and I ended up buying a hitachi one wire hundred amp alternator.


Fast-forward about six years later I have decided to get the vehicle back on the road however I am running multiple accessories now I did not have six years ago. I was thinking of a dual battery set up ..both batteries are isolated from each other and do not attach, they are independent and unfortunately I have purchased 150 amp powermaster one-wire that I have not used. I've read articles from MAD ELECTRONICS I am looking to exchange for a power master 150 amp 3-wire since most of my amp draw if everything on at once doesn't really exceed 137 amps. Maybe. The following is where I need guidance.


As mentioned earlier this is a Toyota Land Cruiser with a 350 Chevy conversion this Chevy conversion is a 1977 L82 C-5 Corvette motor it runs it works everything is fine. I've driven the car plenty of times with the hundred amp alternator but all I did was disconnect the external regulator. Being that this is a conversion and not a typical exchange of an alternator, where would you start to find out how to wire this into the original Toyota harness? where would I begin to look on how to wire this chevy 3-wire internal regulated alternator up into an original Toyota harness?


I will be reading the schematic for the 72 voltage regulator and maybe I'll see if I can splice in the three wire into the original external regulators wiring I think it still hanging somewhere I appreciate the help and direction. The following is what I'm concerned about whether to use a junction block for auxiliaries and run that from aN AMP voltage sensing unit juncture or just run it straight off an auxiliary battery that's being charged by the alternator. Now according to MAD electronics that's not a great thing to do


The original units that are powered by the vehicle I suppose would be headlights for one tail lights brake lights blinkers windshield wipers ignition switch at least I'm not really sure what else I would need that's electrically connected to my starter battery for the harness. My accessories aren't really mostly accessories but probably not needed... if I went back to stock application

What's on the vehicle:


Flex-a-lite Black magic extreme 180 "3300" cfm 15" fan -18amp draw


Holly electric blue pump -3amp draw


Derale Electra-cool two core oil cooler with 650 cfm tornado 10" fan- 5 amp draw


Viair 400c air pump -28 amp

Viair 300 air pump -15 amp draw

Arb air locker pump -9 amp draw


Forward Lights spots 130w -11amp draw


Forward Lights flood -8 amp draw


Side lights corner spots

Rear light flood

Rear light 30w backups -4 amp draw


Surge pump for fuel can siphon or bilge pump work lol

Msd 6al - 1amp /1000rpm- 2-3 amp draw

Cb uniden 78 elite tuned
Gps garmin Oregon 550t

Inverter one plug outlet

Winch Bellevue/warm type 8274 -50-500 amp draw


Headlights -4 amp draw

Brake lights

Horn

Blinkers

Wipers

Ignition

I know I have more s*** running but I'm just concerned if I need to run a larger alternator with a dual battery set up which is just making the stuff more complex.

My concern is running my auxiliaries directly off of a bus bar I guess you would call it from the battery instead of trying to take power from the alternator and let the voltage sensing device tell the alternator how much to give and how much to let go and how much to keep in rather than just charging my battery hot all the time. Voltage sensing item is a MAD Ign. sellable item from their site


What to run off primary and what to run off secondary


What type of ISO?

Use cut off switch


I guess I'm also concerned about a remote starter solenoid and the reason I ask is because I live where it's an average I don't know 120 just kidding it's very very hot in Phoenix and I know that if I run a remote starter solenoid to my Chevy high torque starter I will get more power amperage through a cable with little resistance that if I try to run it to the starter itself like I've been doing....just gets too hot and I can't start the vehicle. My Starter hi-torque mini...it's a permanent magnetite starter I hook it up the normal way with a "ford style solenoid" that it's gonna have run- on because it's going to create its own power when it starts by spinning by the magnets or whatever they do inside those things. So the diagram that I saw is basically power goes in the one side of the remote starter solenoid turn the key the power connects and it goes through the other post to the starter ( jumper cable goes from s post to bat post on original solenoid)


however Power when key is on should come out of the other side to the remote starter solenoid not in this diagram....to route line to a high torque...this diagram shows power going into right post of remote starter solenoid from the battery but instead of it coming out the left post to the part of the starter solenoid on the starter it has has a secondary cable coming off the same right post to the starter. Instead on the jumper of a small wire which is used from the bat+ post on starter solenoid to the little S post on the starter solenoid which is on the starter. I am confused. I am using 1/0 gauge

From the battery to the remote solenoid I want to use the same gauge to the starter post however according to the picture I would be using the same gauge from the same side that the battery cable is going to on the remote starter solenoid, I am trying to get away from having a hot start at all times. My concern is if I have the battery cable going to the right post of the remote starter solenoid and on the same post coming off to the starter solenoid on the starter won't that still always be hot? I'm not sure if this really matters I may never use it if the starter works and functions like itshould but I'm just concerned why I've got a battery going in to the remote starter solenoid and a cable coming off of the same"in" post to the starter solenoid on the starter? Never had a perm magnet starter... does this schematic look valid?

 

[RAYJON]

Ok, way too long a post, what you are looking for is the install for a cs144, which is basicly what all the aftermarket alternators are, 96 cadillac without heated winsheild, look up cs144 install there is alot on the Internet. They are about 120$ brand new, i get them for 20$ at pick and pull, the late 90's escalade had a vortec 350 with serpentine belt system and cs144 alternators. Take a power steering puller to the wrecking yard on half price day and grab both brackets the alternator and pwr steering pump. It should all bolt right up to you sbc.. read some more what you want to do has been done alot... search wiring a cs144, napa even has a conversion harness with the correct resistor...

 

[RAYJON]

Btw a cs144 will put out 100amps at idle, run a big power wire, or take the one off the escalade and the blow fuse mounted with it..

 

[RAYJON]

on the starter, get a heat shield and run it normal the remote solenoid isn't doing much you still have a solenoid on the starter that can heat soak,

try this

DEI Versa Shields 010402

and this

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...Wwppb3B2gKVSKNbdSlBRZCIPzs7SWXRBoCqQ8QAvD_BwE

and shield the wires, I use left over heater hose, 1/0 is overkill that's what I run on my cummins swap a small block chevy should start no problem even hot with regular #2 battery cable. base test everything and run a ground to the starter,

My guess is you dont have a ground strap that runs block to the battery..

 

[RAYJON]

all the dual batteries will do is give you a bigger buffer/capacity what you have running is no different that any modern car or truck as far as load goes. the advantage of duals with an isolater is you can charge both and draw off one, if you happen to run it down for some reason flip the switch for the other battery start the truck and go home... I ran the second battery in my fj80 for the 12v fridge and to power the radio's off a seperate fuse block, when camping I could use the second battery to power the fridge for 2-3 days without having to start and charge back up.

 

[loosechange]

Which isolator did you end up using and were their any issues with
It? Did you use a manual switch at all.


The alt. I have is a 12si and I have researched a few schematics for the wiring. I will bechecking up on cs144 to see the difference in the manufacturing factory alt and a powermaster alt. I would be purchasing new since I'm not able to find many cadillacs at pull and save, pick and save, or pull a part.. ecology was bought out and is pull a part now. Most caddys found are gutted to nothing and definately no alternators either in vehicle or at the counter on shelves where you pay to get in.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[RAYJON]

Standard marine isolator with a bypass switch, i used a simple batterycut off but you can use the 4 position boat switches..

On the alternator, the si12 is real old tech, the cs series are much better, same mounting as a si12, the big thing is they were designed to give more amps at idle and as such have bigger fans and more amp capacity, there are some odd cs144's the put out 240-260 amps, later gm stuff with lots of electrical load.. look at suburbans and 1 ton trucks also, you can tell real quick the difference between the cs130 and cs144, any old style vortec v8, is a small block chevy, so the assesory drives and serpintine belt all fit the only real difference is the waterpump spins the other way, so snag the pump also, vans are the same, gm used them in lots of stuff..

 

[RAYJON]

Ohh they make an idler for the a/c pump or you can convert it to an air compressor..

The factory application i have been ising for swaps is the 96 cadillac sedan without a heated winshield, 180amp..

There is also the early cad escalade 97-2000 with a 160 amp,

Mounting is the same as a si12, just change the pulley..

Good luck do a search, i did a response a while back with part numbers and links to how to do it, i think i might have even posted a pix of my dual alternator setup, with a serpintine belt...

 

[loosechange]

Hey I wanted to thank you and I appreciate the tech info that you offered I did take the one wire back to SoCal speed shop and I found out that if I would've read the instructions laugh out loud the alternator that I have is a one wire or a three wire depending on how I want to hook it up.

So I also found out the 12si model then I purchased is only in size everything about this alternator is brand-new they do all the casings at power master they build the entire alternator here in the USA at power master the only thing that would put this in a nomenclature of a 12 S I is the size of the case.


From what I gather on this card it's rated 103 idle 128 cruise and top end is 165 the set-point is 14.8 V tested 06/05/2017

I don't think the two volt difference on the one I saw at the shop that is going to be any different ...it was 105 idle cruise 130 top 167 I think I'll be happy with this one if I can just now figure out how to wire it up through the links that you sent me.

Thanks again I appreciate it I only live a few blocks away from a Marine world boat store. I think I'm just going to invest in a nice isolator and a good Perko switch. I do have a lot of auxiliary units running off of my yellow top as it is. BTW the amp meter is going away with 150 Amp inline fuses is going between those wires and I will be using my vdo voltmeter

 

[RAYJON]

glad you got it figured out, If you have alot running off a second battery look at using a second fuse box, the one off the jeep cherokee works good, I have one in my fj80 mounted next to the spare battery, its a retangular box with its own mounting bracket, here is a link I just copied what he did,,,

Tech - How to install an auxiliary fuse box for less than $20

another trick I use is the ford crown vic fan relays, they come in there own small box with wiring, it has a 80 and 40amp bosch relay in it and can mount anywhere, great for larger loads and the relays are really high quality..

good luck, hope the shield and or ground cures the starting problem..