Chemical coolant flushing? (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Ok so I need to flush the heater cores and lines south of the fire wall. I don't like using any chemical flushes and never have.

But in this case combustion gas entered coolant and so did heat from combustion camber. Looks like heater tee plastic got very hot, so I'm assume other parts/gasket between combustion camber(s) & tees did as well.

So I'd like to get system flushed out before replacing engine. Just to make sure I don't have anything foreign in coolant system. I may have radiator shop clean radiator, but cabin heater system, well that not practical for just a precautionary move. So I'd like to flush in place with a pump and distilled water with some chemical to start the process.

Someone suggested Kerosene.

What's your thoughts?

 

[abuck99]

I would consider organic non-reactive solutions and stay away from distillates.

distilled water
oxygenated or ionized water

 

[2001LC]

Some good ideas, THXs.

So far I blew out old and did get some crud that was just in the ends of the hoses. It include some crumbled heater tees material.

This was the crud on the bottom after pouring off the rest from the first blow-out of old coolant from heater lines.

This is clear after flushing with Distilled water, then Toyota SLL coolant.

 

[2001LC]

Before I button up this engine, I'll flush one more time. During that flush I'll use a chemical that cuts oil. Provided I'm confident it will not hurt system and easily flush back out without leaving any residue.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

Before I button up this engine, I'll flush one more time. During that flush I'll use a chemical that cuts oil. Provided I'm confident it will not hurt system and easily flush back out without leaving any residue.

semi-resurrecting this to ask a question. I am in the middle of a radiator/timing belt job. Unfortunately the neck on my thermostat water inlet broke. I got the piece out and fished out as much gasket as I could. New part doesn't come in until Thursday (at the earliest). Old coolant was not great, should I wait till I have everything buttoned up with the new hoses and radiator to rinse/flush with distilled water just with gravity? Any hurt in just opening the engine coolant drain valve and putting distilled water through an inlet pipe with everything dissembled like it is now? If there gasket junk or shavings from the broken piece is doesnt seem ideal to rinse it through new parts/new radiator.

 

[2001LC]

I'd think, coolant was mostly drain at time of break, so nothing floated in deep. Even if some fluid was in joint, most if not all practicals would be visible just inside water bypass joint. So provided you clean area, all should be out. You can use a wet vac and vacuum out area.

I see no problem draining block. But pouring water in this point, would wash into heads. That I'd not do.

Did you get stuck piece out of water bypass joint?
If not you'll be replacing water by pass joint front.
If out you need to clean and polish surface for new O-ring to seat well.

Coolant leak at water inlet and..

Working on a 00LC w/169K miles. Note: title is only starting point, much more was done. First up is getting coolant leak(s) under control. Coolant leak repair is the most important thing we must fix. Then I'll move on to Power steering leaks and other issues. The water inlet to water by-pass...

forum.ih8mud.com

BTW: Do not use any FIPG on the O-ring. Likely someone did last time, and caused this issue. FSM states use soapy water (Dish soap/water) to lube the O-ring for assemble. I see guys in rust belt use grease. Toyota makes a grease for rubber.

If you need a tube of Toyota 1282B FIPG (I only use this, for coolant) for the water inlet to water pump. PM me!

 

[ShenValley100LC]

I'd did get piece out and pulled the gasket and FIPG out. Yes, thats exactly what happened, like a lot of FIPG. Is 1282B FIPG different than the seal packing 103?

So to clarify you're saying just do a regular distilled/demineralized water flush once everything is back together before putting coolant in?

 

[94SRUNNER]

So to clarify you're saying just do a regular distilled/demineralized water flush once everything is back together before putting coolant in?

Yes, once the system is put back together, fill with distilled water and take it for a good drive with the front and rear heat cranked to insure good coolant circulation. Then drain it and re-fill wit Toyota red.

@2001LC may have a more detailed recipe for this. He is always spot on.

 

[2001LC]

I'd did get piece out and pulled the gasket and FIPG out. Yes, thats exactly what happened, like a lot of FIPG. Is 1282B FIPG different than the seal packing 103?

So to clarify you're saying just do a regular distilled/demineralized water flush once everything is back together before putting coolant in?

Toyota 102 & 103, is for oil FIPG. 1282B is coolant and list for like ~$80.

 

[94SRUNNER]

@2001LC have you used vinegar for flushing the coolant system?

 

[2001LC]

No. I've used a chemical flush once. I did so, because owner put in stop-leak. I used a BG product.

A system properly service does not need chemical flush.

 

[abuck99]

I'd did get piece out and pulled the gasket and FIPG out. Yes, thats exactly what happened, like a lot of FIPG. Is 1282B FIPG different than the seal packing 103?

So to clarify you're saying just do a regular distilled/demineralized water flush once everything is back together before putting coolant in?

SL coolant (RED) on older model years- may not be necessary Toyota 1282B. On SLL (PINK) its suggested to use 1282B. There is some debate on this, and we'd be hard pressed to find many shops/dealers using the expensive ($60-$80 1282B) even on later year models.

There is a waterpump specifc FIPG made by AISIN that might be worth a look (prob similar to 103)- comes in smaller 2oz (and also 3 oz) tubes: https://aisinaftermarket.com/uploads/ho1r2mvq_AB1207B1_pro_bul_Sept_2016.pdf

Which ever you use, what I learned here is to let it dry overnight up to 24hrs before adding coolant- if you can.

 

[2001LC]

SL coolant (RED) on older model years- may not be necessary Toyota 1282B. On SLL (PINK) its suggested to use 1282B. There is some debate on this, and we'd be hard pressed to find many shops/dealers using the expensive ($60-$80 1282B) even on later year models.

There is a waterpump specifc FIPG made by AISIN that might be worth a look (prob similar to 103)- comes in smaller 2oz (and also 3 oz) tubes: https://aisinaftermarket.com/uploads/ho1r2mvq_AB1207B1_pro_bul_Sept_2016.pdf

Which ever you use, what I learned here is to let it dry overnight up to 24hrs before adding coolant- if you can.

Actually, I once said we could use Toyota 102 or 103 in place of 1282B, my bad!
It was a shop foreman that said we could with Toyota red. But I went back and checked in the 2001 FSM. It uses part number 08826-00100 which is 1282B. So it is all I use. Coolant system is a big deal for me. I've seen so many damaged system from Dealership, corner shop as well as DIY maintained, I go by the book. My concern is coolant leak and damage to water pump seal.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

SL coolant (RED) on older model years- may not be necessary Toyota 1282B. On SLL (PINK) its suggested to use 1282B. There is some debate on this, and we'd be hard pressed to find many shops/dealers using the expensive ($60-$80 1282B) even on later year models.

There is a waterpump specifc FIPG made by AISIN that might be worth a look (prob similar to 103)- comes in smaller 2oz (and also 3 oz) tubes: https://aisinaftermarket.com/uploads/ho1r2mvq_AB1207B1_pro_bul_Sept_2016.pdf

Which ever you use, what I learned here is to let it dry overnight up to 24hrs before adding coolant- if you can.

If 2001LC's get here in time (when the thermostat housing shows up) I'll use it otherwise go with the 103, I'm using Zerex Asian coolant. Have you gotten leaks when you didn't wait 24 hrs? I'm having to rent a car as it is waiting for this to be put together.

 

[abuck99]

Ive only used 1282b and let dry overnight before adding coolant as a precaution. I believe the 1282b has a faster cure time so that may not be necessary. If you use something different more cure time might ensure you get a good bond/seal.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

Should put the new thermostat and gasket in before I flush or wait till after? Ive seen some people say they leave the thermostat out for this and install later.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Should put the new thermostat and gasket in before I flush or wait till after? Ive seen some people say they leave the thermostat out for this and install later.

You could perform and initial flush without the thermostat. I've done this in the past. Then drain and install the new thermostat and o-ring and new coolant.