Check transmission fluid level while idling or not? (1 Viewer)

[Phx99Cruiser]

So this weekend I drained and refilled both diffs and the transfer case with Amsoil 75W90 "liquid gold" as I read another poster say once.

I also did the "shadetree" drain of the automatic transmission fluid - removed the drain bolt and jacked the front end up, this got me about 3qts out. I then replaced the bolt and added 3 new qts of Amsoil ATF. Removed the return hose (from the cooler into the transmission from another write-up) until about 2 qts came out, refilled another 2 qts. Did this hose drain three cycles.

When I first checked the level it seemed a bit low on the stick, took it for a drive around the blocked and noticed 2-3 second hesitation in the shifting. Added another qt, got better still some hesitation. Added another .5 to .75 qts. Shifting fine now, driven for about 10-12 miles on it and it seems fine.

QUESTION: should I be checking the fluid level when idling or not?

For some reason I'm having the hardest time getting a comfortable reading. When not idling but cold, the fluid is at about 1" up from the bottom of the stick, below the Cold mark. When idling cold/cool, the stick seems to have some fluid residue up past the hot marks

Seems like such a simple task - any observations or helpful hints would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[spressomon]

Engine should be hot/fully up to operating temp. Level vehicle; Engine idling; in Park. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it clean; reinsert and pull back out to verify fluid level on dipstick. Level of fluid should be in the "Hot" range on the dipstick.


I started running Amsoil synthetic ATF fluid a few years ago. Typically I try to cycle the 4qt pan drain with new Amsoil every 5,000 miles. But sometimes it goes 10,000 miles in between. My tranny fluid appears clean without any burnt smell whatsoever. I did notice slightly firmer and quicker shifts after several fluid swaps with the Amsoil; but nothing dramatic.

Go easy on the tranny drain plug! Doesn't require much torque and they're easy to strip. The drain plug is designed to be the sacrificial component so I always have one or two around for those just in case situations. And they're relatively cheap.

 

[NMuzj100]

What spresso said.

These transmissions are sensitive to being overfilled. Keep in mind that operating temp for the ATF probably isn't reached for at least 20 minutes of highway driving.

If spresso lived close I'd take his old ATF for use in my vehicles. Every 5k !

 

[Phx99Cruiser]

Ok, thanks for the info. After driving into work this morning (20-25 minutes mostly freeway) I checked while idling. I seem to have gotten a "cleaner" read on the dipstick and it is on the bottom mark of the Cool range.

Think I'll add another .5qt when I get home and re-check again.

Thanks!

 

[spressomon]

What spresso said.

These transmissions are sensitive to being overfilled. Keep in mind that operating temp for the ATF probably isn't reached for at least 20 minutes of highway driving.

If spresso lived close I'd take his old ATF for use in my vehicles. Every 5k !

Its just a drain 1-gallon add 1-gallon (whatever the pan holds) procedure every 5-10k.

 

[GaFJC]

I started running Amsoil synthetic ATF fluid a few years ago. Typically I try to cycle the 4qt pan drain with new Amsoil every 5,000 miles.

Spresso,

Do you use the AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Transmission Fluid PATFQT-EA?

 

[spressomon]

For ATF and power steering

 

[DMX84]

What spresso said.
If spresso lived close I'd take his old ATF for use in my vehicles. Every 5k !

+1

 

[spressomon]

+1

DEAN!!! Where the heck you been boy?!

 

[DMX84]

DEAN!!! Where the heck you been boy?!

I've been really busy at work doing 50+ hours a week with lots of travel.
Trying to fix up the 71 etc.
It feels good to stop in and catch up!

 

[GaFJC]

For ATF and power steering

Thanks! Now I know what to order.

 

[Malleus]

Engine should be hot/fully up to operating temp. Level vehicle; Engine idling; in Park. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it clean; reinsert and pull back out to verify fluid level on dipstick. Level of fluid should be in the "Hot" range on the dipstick.


I started running Amsoil synthetic ATF fluid a few years ago. Typically I try to cycle the 4qt pan drain with new Amsoil every 5,000 miles. But sometimes it goes 10,000 miles in between. My tranny fluid appears clean without any burnt smell whatsoever. I did notice slightly firmer and quicker shifts after several fluid swaps with the Amsoil; but nothing dramatic.

Go easy on the tranny drain plug! Doesn't require much torque and they're easy to strip. The drain plug is designed to be the sacrificial component so I always have one or two around for those just in case situations. And they're relatively cheap.

Is this in the owner's manual? I looked and can't find it anywhere in there. There are instructions for checking every fluid except the ATM.

 

[albertucsb]

For ATF and power steering
View attachment 563381

Hi guys, can you mix the two? Amsoil and OEM Toyota ATF? Thx in advance

 

[spressomon]

^ No problem.

 

[gungriffin]

^ No problem.

Are you still using Amsoil ATF for your drain and fills? Seems like they have 2 formulas, the fancy and the regular. Which one are you filling with?

 

[thebeedeegee]

What spresso said.

These transmissions are sensitive to being overfilled. Keep in mind that operating temp for the ATF probably isn't reached for at least 20 minutes of highway driving.

If spresso lived close I'd take his old ATF for use in my vehicles. Every 5k !

Does it really take that long and is the driving necessary? It's the same transmission that's used in the FJ cruiser and since it's "sealed" in the FJ you have to get it up to temp (between 120 and 130 deg F) to properly check the fluid via a special drain plug. I found after idling for like 10 to 15 minutes it was ready.

 

[abuck99]

Does it really take that long and is the driving necessary? It's the same transmission that's used in the FJ cruiser and since it's "sealed" in the FJ you have to get it up to temp (between 120 and 130 deg F) to properly check the fluid via a special drain plug. I found after idling for like 10 to 15 minutes it was ready.

Yeah takes little bit. The FJ will warm up much faster since there is no external trans cooler. The 100's A750 tend to run a little cooler so it takes 15min+ for them to reach check temp.

Note: Check temp is now 97F~115F (this was revised back in 2008-ish) If you have a scanguage, techstream, torque you can use that monitor- or infrared temp gun, but these aren't reliable for measuring internal temps- you can get close. Using the pin procedure is no longer accurate.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Yeah takes little bit. The FJ will warm up much faster since there is no external trans cooler. The 100's A750 tend to run a little cooler so it takes 15min+ for them to reach check temp.

Note: Check temp is now 97F~115F (this was revised back in 2008-ish) If you have a scanguage, techstream, torque you can use that monitor- or infrared temp gun, but these aren't reliable for measuring internal temps- you can get close. Using the pin procedure is no longer accurate.

interesting. In the FJ i shorted the pins together to get the light to go when the temp was ready, and I had to add just over 2 quarts of fluid to get it to show full. I had been experiencing shifting issues before (slipping into first gear). I wonder if the shop that did the flush checked the level at the new lower temp?

 

[abuck99]

Maybe they didn't check it at all. IDK how much fluid expansion 15 degrees makes, but the difference in between the old & new test temperature parameters (fluid expansion) would likely not yield a 2 quart variance. Maybe 1/2 quart (or a little more).

Here's the TSB on the revised check procedure.

 

[spressomon]

Are you still using Amsoil ATF for your drain and fills? Seems like they have 2 formulas, the fancy and the regular. Which one are you filling with?

I bought several containers of this Amsoil synthetic ATF fluid quite a few years ago so not sure if its identical to what they're selling today or not...