Check out the pictures of a 3fe cracked head (1 Viewer)

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Dec 21, 2006
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Hey everbody thanks for all the replys. I thought that I would take a few minutes and post some pictures, and do a quick right up of what I have found so far. Hopefully someone can use this information and avoid all of the problems that I have had. Monday I bought my first fj62 from a fellow mudder. I found the add in the classifieds section. So I flew up to San Jose, performed a compression test and drove the vehicle. The oil was clean had good compression etc etc. The car stayed cool all of the way home but it used two gallons of coolant on a 8 hour drive. When I got home I did a bunch more testing and everything still came up negative. So I called a good friend that has had a few 62's and he said to check out the inside of the valve cover. fj62valvecover.jpg Next he said to look directly under the rocker between cylinder 4 and 5. In that area I found 1/4" of a hard black substance (probably a quick radiator type fix stuff), I s****ed it off and then cleaned up the area really well, then I preasurized the cooling system to 14 PSI after a few minutes here is what I found. FJ62cracked head.jpg fj62crackedhead2.jpg
If you look real close you can see the water drops comming out. The biggest drop is towards the bottom and then there are two more smaller drops in a straight line directly above it.In total it is about a 3/4" crack. So hear is what I have learned. My friend told me to pull the valve cover and check everything out. When I asked if we could the owner said no he didnt have a enough time for that and the motor only had 50K on it (and there were receipts proving that). I should have insisted that the valve cover come off. That would have told me everything that I needed to know. I would have probably still bought the 62 but a price that reflected e new head. It has definately been a learning experience. Unfortunately I cannot afford a new casting, So I found a used one from a toyota wrecking yard in Denver and the are going to ship it out with a warranty and then I am going to have it magnafluxed and rebuilt.
fj62valvecover.jpg
FJ62cracked head.jpg
fj62crackedhead2.jpg
 
What is all that scum on the inside of the valve cover? Caused by the coolant leak?

Have you called the person that sold you the vehicle? Maybe he'll make some kind of offer. I would not sell a vehicle without disclosing all the known defects.

Good luck.

Matt
 
Bummer!

A friend with a 60 series had a crack there, and he fed it coolant for ages, before getting a new head. That truck is still running today.
 
Looks a lot like what happened to my daughter's BMW. Head bolt broke ( just the hex part) bounced around until it got picked up by the cam and punched a hole in the head. Car kept running over the Altamont and when my daughter got home, she told me the car was missing a little bit. Anti-freeze and oil make a really interesting combo...like greenish peanut butter. Hopefully you were able to attend to it before it did too much damage to the bottom end. :whoops:
 
A crack like that from the water jacket outward can probably be fixed. My tenant is an old school machinist He as looking at a couple that I have sitting in the corner that have virtually identical cracks. He insists that he has fixed this sort of crack many times over the years. He has excellent credibility with me. Knows his stuff.

Basically the crack is ground out a bit deeper and wider and then brazed.

I haven't gotten around to trying it, but I'm confident that it should work as claimed.


Mark...
 
I talked with one head shop today that does all of the Crack repair for Jasper motors. Anway they can repair the crack by heating the head in a oven until it is glowing red then weld it. Then they let it slowly cool down over 24 hours, then rebuild it. The cost was only around $450. I am sure it would work, however from what I have learned about cracks, unless both ends are drilled first they tend to come back. I found a used head for $250 and then I am going to have it rebuilt for around 200, so Basically I will hopefully be at the same cost. A new bare casting was 821 and the valves were close to 400. Ouch!
 
If you found a good 3FE head for $250... JUMP on it. ;)


Mark...
 
Small cracks into the water jacket can be fixed inexpensively by "stitching" pins. Basically, you drill and tap a series of interlocking screws. Many machine shops will do this while they do the valve job. It is a permanent fix.

This repair can also be done at home without removing the head if you can get to the crack to drill and tap the holes. The pins or screws come with a drilling and tapping jig.

An example:
http://www.locknstitch.com/
 
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I checked out the websight . That is really interesting. From the looks of it, I bet that I could leave the head on and do that repair myself, however I would probably never trust it for extended use. It would seem that the pins would have the weak spot in the head. Another problem would be the disimiliar metals with the antifreeze water betwee them. It may cause corrosion, but the corrosion would probaly take a long time. Has anybody tried this yet?
 
I checked out the websight . That is really interesting. From the looks of it, I bet that I could leave the head on and do that repair myself, however I would probably never trust it for extended use. It would seem that the pins would have the weak spot in the head. Another problem would be the disimiliar metals with the antifreeze water betwee them. It may cause corrosion, but the corrosion would probaly take a long time. Has anybody tried this yet?

We learned it in metal shop in high school, so it isn't hard. It isn't weak either and the steel pins and cast iron are not dissimilar in any sense that would be meaningful for corrosion. It is widely used to repair cracks in cast iron in engine blocks and heads and it is a permanent fix. People have been doing this for 100 years. Call your local machine shop and see if they will do it on a drive in basis.
 
Yeah, that's an old school, tried and true approach. I never even think about it, but it' perfect for this type of repair.


Mark...
 
Another thing about the stitching pins is that they can be used as a base for welding something to cast iron that is subject to high stress or shock loads. You install two rows of pins spaced 1/4 inch apart on either side of the weldment (this might take 15 - 20 minutes). Then you weld a bead over the tops of the pins and the cast iron to make a base with nickle rod. Then you can weld anything on to the base normally. The housing will split before weld bead cracks off.
 
I had a broken water pump casting brazed up and tapped out on a cast iron head for an IH Scout. It was way less than $450. They did the same thing you described with an annealing oven. I think the shop is in Vernon.
 
Do you think that when the use a brazing oven that the welding materiel gets all the way down in the crack?
 
That's a pretty thin spot. Widen and deepen the crack with some careful grinding and the repair will penetrate all the way through.


Mark...
 

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