Cheap Aftermarket UCAs/ Suspension Parts (1 Viewer)

[kwill32]

I searched and found no info on this specific topic.

Ok, so my front suspension is rusted to hell..... I need to replace virtually everything up front in order to sleep at night, but I don't have the budget to go for OEM or fancy replacement parts (like SPC UCAs). I want new knuckles, hubs, Upper and Lower Control arms, Sway bar, shocks, drive shaft, and brakes would be cool too. My first instinct is to get OEM take-offs from a Parted-Out truck. I have already been quoted a pretty fair price ($490 minus shocks and sway bar) for all of the parts above). However, everything will require new bushings, ball joints, etc. Also, I plan to let my local mechanic do the labor. My concern is that there are new, cheaper aftermarket options that have new joints/ bushings installed, and are also more economical. Like these for <$60.... Control Arm Set For 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Front Left & Right, Upper 2Pc 723650891858 | eBay

I do realize these are EXTREMELY cheap for a UCA. Does anyone have experience with these?

Any recommendations for the other parts?

Considerations:

• I only plan to crank the torsion bars on this LC, not lift it. (At least for the next few years).
• This is a daily driver that will see mild trails, but extreme grocery pickups.
• I'm not rich! $500-700 for UCAs alone is out of the question.
• I still need MANY other parts

Thanks,
Kyle

 

[kwill32]

Other Options:
Dorman LCAs

Dorman Control Arm Set of 2 For 98-07 Toyota Land Cruiser Front LH and RH Lower | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Dorman Control Arm Set of 2 For 98-07 Toyota Land Cruiser Front LH and RH Lower at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Dorman UCAs

Dorman Control Arm Set of 2 For 98-07 Toyota Land Cruiser Front LH and RH Upper | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Dorman Control Arm Set of 2 For 98-07 Toyota Land Cruiser Front LH and RH Upper at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[iwashmycar]

I put $70 LCAs on my FJ and they’ve been good for probably two years now. It’s a gamble but probably okay.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

When my upper joints were needing to be replaced I talked with Kurt (@cruiseroutfit) about the super cheap Febest arms on Amazon. He'd seen a few installed but his opinion was mostly you get what you pay for. If you're comfortable with possibly replacing the arm again in a couple years due to failure, then it's an option to consider.

 

[kwill32]

When my upper joints were needing to be replaced I talked with Kurt (@cruiseroutfit) about the super cheap Febest arms on Amazon. He'd seen a few installed but his opinion was mostly you get what you pay for. If you're comfortable with possibly replacing the arm again in a couple years due to failure, then it's an option to consider.

If I could get these to last a couple of years before failure, I could probably get a good set of UCAs afterwards. Are the lower quality bushing, joint assemblies the only concern?

 

[bamabrock]

I want new knuckles, hubs, Upper and Lower Control arms, Sway bar, shocks, drive shaft, and brakes would be cool too.

Why do you think you need to replace all of this?

 

[kwill32]

Why do you think you need to replace all of this?

Mostly for aesthetic reasons. Just to give you an idea...

It‘s hard to tell the real condition after applying POR-15 and a topcoat to most of the surfaces. It actually looks worse in person. Most of the really bad spots are not easy to snap a picture of.
All of the connection points are very rusted, as well as the bolts. I am kind of a clean freak, and the rust bugs me. By the time I take everything off to clean the rust, and protect it... I could have just swapped the unit with a rust free one. The goal is to get as many rusty parts as possible off of the truck.

 

[3_puppies]

there are good used OEM parts available, just need to post in the classifieds

 

[saucebox]

That's a lot of coin just to replace functioning, but rusty parts. I think it makes more sense to replace things as they fail—the wear items like ball joints, tie rods, etc., cost the same either way.

Labor for replacing all that is going to be high if you're not doing the work. If you can manage some of the work, then you can just wire brush lots of these parts and coat them.

And @3_puppies is right—take your time, find good used parts. OEM > cheapest alternative.

 

[hickuptruck]

Dude, what? Replacing control arms for aesthetic reasons? ..........I'm not quite following.

 

[Dirt Limo]

Rusty land cruiser factory parts are better than gonna rust in 2 week cheap parts. Part of what made you want it in the first part is how well they are built right?

 

[knewstance]

The top nut on your shocks looks like it's going to give you lots of free entertainment when you go to take it off. Mine weren't fun. I ended up removing the bushings (piece by piece) just under the top nut to relieve all the tension. That worked well.

PS my name starts as kwil as well and every time i see you post I read the title and think to myself, "wait I didn't post about that." Thanks for confusing me

 

[kwill32]

Dude, what? Replacing control arms for aesthetic reasons? ..........I'm not quite following.

Did you read the rest of my post, or just skim it? There a rusted, broken brake line brackets and seized bolts. I also greatly value appearance. Why does that bother you?

Rusty land cruiser factory parts are better than gonna rust in 2 week cheap parts. Part of what made you want it in the first part is how well they are built right?

Yes, I did buy a Land Cruiser partly for build quality. However, rusted parts aren’t considered quality parts in my book. Again, the pictures don’t do it justice. Mostly everything has been coated.

Parts don’t actually rust in two weeks in NC. I just bought this neglected Cruiser from Maryland with the intention of getting it cleaned up. The ride is not great, and I don’t know what specific parts to replace. I figured this would be an opportunity to baseline the suspension and start fresh.

I would love to have all OEM parts, which is why I mentioned that I have inquired about some. I just wanted to weigh the experience of members.

The top nut on your shocks looks like it's going to give you lots of free entertainment when you go to take it off. Mine weren't fun. I ended up removing the bushings (piece by piece) just under the top nut to relieve all the tension. That worked well.

PS my name starts as kwil as well and every time i see you post I read the title and think to myself, "wait I didn't post about that." Thanks for confusing me

It will be “fun” hah. I have been regularly soaking it with PB blaster.

 

[Dirt Limo]

It will be “fun” hah. I have been regularly soaking it with PB blaster.

I have had luck withe "deep creep" it's harder to find than the pb blaster but I think it works better

 

[3_puppies]

The top nut on your shocks looks like it's going to give you lots of free entertainment when you go to take it off. Mine weren't fun. I ended up removing the bushings (piece by piece) just under the top nut to relieve all the tension. That worked well.

I'd assume the OP is changing the shocks at the same time.
cut off wheel, I don't even bother to try and remove the nuts if I'm not re-using them

 

[Connorham]

Yes I have installed those exact UCAs; shamefully but not regrettably. They have worked well for the past 6 months and 6000ish miles. Mine came with ball joints, something else I needed.

I'm using them as a go between until I can do SPC UCAs. I honestly wish I had changed out my Lower Control Arms at the same time since these have been trustworthy enough. Get all new ball joints that way if you needed that. A BIG refresh to your front suspension at a great price.

All in all it was worth the risk given the price. Good luck

 

[kwill32]

I'd assume the OP is changing the shocks at the same time.
cut off wheel, I don't even bother to try and remove the nuts if I'm not re-using them

A cut off wheel is something I definitely want to add to the tool kit. Yeah, I will be replacing the shocks at the same time. They are the originals, and quite worn. I still haven’t decided which shocks I’m going with yet though.

 

[kwill32]

D

Yes I have installed those exact UCAs; shamefully but not regrettably. They have worked well for the past 6 months and 6000ish miles. Mine came with ball joints, something else I needed.

I'm using them as a go between until I can do SPC UCAs. I honestly wish I had changed out my Lower Control Arms at the same time since these have been trustworthy enough. Get all new ball joints that way if you needed that. A BIG refresh to your front suspension at a great price.

All in all it was worth the risk given the price. Good luck

That’s great to hear! Did you install the $60 ones or the Dorman?

 

[abuck99]

Knuckles can be cleaned up and refurbed, should be fine & no need to replace unless wrecked. Jump on the classifieds and post some wanted ads for used UCA’s LCAs, CV axles if needed (you said prop shaft but maybe you meant cv axle) parts from a 100-150 k truck from dry climate would be good or just get cheap auto store parts with exchange warranty.

Based on the significant amount of undercarriage rust in your pics lends to keeping your total spend in time and parts investment low- just replace things as they fail and make it your DD (dont invest a bunch of $$ in this one)

 

[kwill32]

Knuckles can be cleaned up and refurbed, should be fine & no need to replace unless wrecked. Jump on the classifieds and post some wanted ads for used UCA’s LCAs, CV axles if needed (you said prop shaft but maybe you meant cv axle) parts from a 100-150 k truck from dry climate would be good or just get cheap auto store parts with exchange warranty.

Based on the significant amount of undercarriage rust in your pics lends to keeping your total spend in time and parts investment low- just replace things as they fail and make it your DD (dont invest a bunch of $$ in this one)

I will just have my local mechanic diagnose it, and tell me what he thinks should be replaced or repaired first. I noticed a squeak yesterday when turning left at low speeds, and a clunk when accelerating out of a 3/4 wheel turn to the left. I thought it may save labor cost buy doing everything at once, but I may just have to let my dreams of perfection go for now. I came from an immaculate BMW 3 series, and I am trying to get this truck as close to that condition as possible.

Bit of a contrast in vehicles, huh?

Anyways, I was already quoted $490 for take-offs of a 99 w/ ~150k miles (southern vehicle). This price included: Knuckles, UCAs, LCAs, Front Driveshaft, Hubs & Brakes. I may use this supplier for the parts deemed necessary by the mechanic.

If I said prop shaft, I didn't mean to. I got a quote or a NAPA CV axle for ~$60, but I don't know the warranty on it. I have heard mixed reviews on those, so I haven't made a decision on that yet.