Chassis Saver Paint

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I have seen a sample of the Chassis Saver paint. It was applied to a thin substrate to show it's flexibility. I have spent the last year restoring my FJ40. I am a believer that prep work is very important. If you can blast the rust off, that's best, or at least take a air chisel and get the scale off. The Chassis Saver people even advise to remove the rust and scale for best results.
The trouble I have with all of these 1 component paints is their claims of durability. I haven't seen any test data (I work in the auto industry in the Detroit area) for standardized tests like the 500 hr salt spray or 96 hr humidity tests. How about chemical resistance (gas, oil, brake fluid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, xylene, amonia, etc)?
I have used 2 part epoxy coatings after countless hours of sand blasting and chiseling. I have had good results so far with PPG's products (although they are expensive). Specifically, I applied their Light Industrial Coating - CRE 904 primer and AUE 300 top coat (that's for the body). The primer is a high build coating that stands up to just about anything you can throw at it.
Just my opinion, but I won't trust the single component coatings until I see some real test data. Here's a good, simple test: try a coating on a test panel and see how it holds up to a good soak in lacquer thinner (not paint thinner).
Once again, it's just my opinion... Good Luck

 Re: Chassis Saver Paint

Hi Mark,

You've made some very valid points regarding single component paint finishes. The fact is, Chassis Saver is a moisture curing urethane. It cures by reaction with moisture in the atmosphere. It is by far the toughest, most chemical resistant of all single component finishes derived from today’s modern chemistry. The reaction that takes place when Chassis Saver cures is very similar to what happens when you add a hardener or activator to today’s multi-component finishes. In fact, the hardeners used in these finishes today, 2K Single Stage Urethanes and Clear Coats "ARE" actually moisture curing resins themselves. They crosslink with the larger component, usually acrylic modified polyester resins (this is the resin in the larger component of the paint system usually where you will find the pigments or it would be clear when in the form of a clear coat). The crosslinking process of a 1K and 2K system are very similar except with a 2K paint the pot life does not start until you mix both components together. The 1K pot life begins when you open the can. Chassis Saver was designed for it's simplicity in use. No measuring or mixing and no errors possible. It really does what it was designed to do and it does have incredible resistance to all things corrosive. Your lacquer thinner test is one 1 have never done but it essentially demonstrates what Toluene and Acetone will do to a finish since they are usually present in lacquer thinner as 2 of the dominant ingredients. For coating a chassis, Chassis Saver is a great choice. The Ohio DOT recently sent a testimonial that they have reduced vehicle refinishing operations by 50% on snow and ice removal equipment since using Chassis Saver. I don't think that equipment usually drives through any puddles of lacquer thinner :)

If anyone is interested in info check the link below

Magnet Man
Magnet Man-
It says the coating is sensitive to UV rays, So if it is on the chassis would it still need to be top coated?

Is the product available in California? Not all products are.
Magnet Man,
Thanks for the info on the coating...It's encouraging to hear that the paint is a urethane, and frankly I'm very interested in using it on my next frame job this summer. I have heard of moisture cured paints, but those have a blocker that only releases above a certain temperature (for activation in curing ovens). Seems like it may be a good product.
For the backyard mechanic, resistance to something like lacquer thinner can be a fast way to evaluate a paint. You won't be driving through lacquer thinner puddles, but there is a lot of oil, brake fluid, salt, and other corrosive elements the will be seen by the paint over it's life.

I do have a few questions though...
Please bear with me, my profession is electrical and lighting in the auto industry. I have done a lot of research on the paint stuff though, it delayed my project a few months. I understand that the base isocyanate is the driving factor for physical properties. What is the base isocyanate used in the formulation: TDI, HDI, IPDI, etc.? TDI and MDI have a tendancy to yellow and show poor gloss retention when weathered. If I want to spray, can I use HVLP equiptment? What size tip and what pressure? What is the drying times (to dust, to touch, to tape).

I think you missed my point of the first message however. In the auto industry (and I imagine in many other OEM manufacturers), standardized testing gives the customer a way to compare similar products. Sales people like to stretch the truth when it comes to performance - that's why I always ask for test data. What troubles me is that the Chassis Saver product is marketed to automotive enthusiasts, but I like to know if there has been any standardized testing done. If so, which ones? Since you are targeting automotive people, I assume that you would want to use the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) testing standards for evalutating coatings and their durability. I may want to use the product, but it's durablilty would have to be proven to me before I would use it. Feel free to e-mail it to me, I'd be interested in the results.

Once again, just my opinion...

Magnet Man-
I will be doing a chassis job in a few weeks, which is why this product caught my attention. I look forward to your responces to Mark's questions as I am just begining to my research for a product now.
Magnet Man-
It says the coating is sensitive to UV rays, So if it is on the chassis would it still need to be top coated?

The sensitivity to UV is one of the deficiencies of some urethanes. These types of urethanes are extensively used for bridge coatings in todays maintenance markets. In the situation where Chassis Saver is used underbody, it does not have to be topcoated. This choice is left to the user. When not topcoated and exposed to direct sunlight (under a vehicle there is no direct sun) the product will degloss but it will not lose its physical properties and film integrity. It continues to do what it was specified for. When systems like this are used direct to rust in the maintenance market they are generally overcoated with aliphatic urethanes which do have UV resistance. The only people I tell to overcoat are those that have a high lift in a truck and there will be some exposure near the wheel well at least. Overcoating would generally be recommended with an acrylic or urethane enamel. NO clear coats over this.

Is the product available in California? Not all products are.

Yes the product is available in CA. No distributors yet but we ship UPS ground with no hazardous charges applicable to this product and it's reducer. It has a ver low VOC level at 2.09 lbs per gal :)

I was reading this thread and may find your product useful for when I treat my frame.

I am curious about the testing that Mark referred to in his post. How was the testing done for this product? Were any of these "standardized tests"? AND, how have these standardized tests ranked your product with other chassis paints?


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