For starters I did do a search and could not find anything on my problem.
For background. 13B-T 24V. While checking the brushes, I shorted the lead off of the B terminal on the brush housing (?). Replaced the fried fuseable link, and replaced the brush assembly and voltage regulator with new. Now when testing the alt. at 2000rpm and head lights on and interior heater fan at full on, I am seeing 27.75V at the B terminal (on alt, brush assembly) to a ground. Book says I am suppose to see 27.9-28.5V here. So, is the alternator bad? Also, the typical BJ74, BJ70, 3 red lights on at startup until engine reved up to about 1400rpm for the alt to kick in is not happening. At key on, all the lights are on and as soon as you start the engine, these lights all go out. I do notice that the volt needle starts at about middle and after about 20 seconds jumps up to maybe 27V(just a guess since there are no numbers on the volt gauge except the 32V). When keys off, measurement at the 24V + terminal to ground you still see 24+V.
For background. 13B-T 24V. While checking the brushes, I shorted the lead off of the B terminal on the brush housing (?). Replaced the fried fuseable link, and replaced the brush assembly and voltage regulator with new. Now when testing the alt. at 2000rpm and head lights on and interior heater fan at full on, I am seeing 27.75V at the B terminal (on alt, brush assembly) to a ground. Book says I am suppose to see 27.9-28.5V here. So, is the alternator bad? Also, the typical BJ74, BJ70, 3 red lights on at startup until engine reved up to about 1400rpm for the alt to kick in is not happening. At key on, all the lights are on and as soon as you start the engine, these lights all go out. I do notice that the volt needle starts at about middle and after about 20 seconds jumps up to maybe 27V(just a guess since there are no numbers on the volt gauge except the 32V). When keys off, measurement at the 24V + terminal to ground you still see 24+V.
