Charging Air Conditioning in an FJ60 (2 Viewers)

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I didn't find specifics on YouTube or threads on here. I get a bit of cold air in my factory air but its weak and it's getting warmer and I'm hoping for an easy recharge but also not a mechanical pro but willing to learn this sorcerery. Just don't want to screw it up. I'm pretty sure I see the AC access point on passenger side under hood but would love confirmation/ recommendations etc. Pictures, products, welcome.
 
I found this a while ago when I was in the middle of re-furbishing all my heater and A/C boxes. Not sure how much this will help you but there is some good general information here when converting from R12.

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While the above Toyota procedure is super helpful, if you just want to add some R12, watch this video. it's a process for 134a, but doesn't really matter. Just get the pressure levels for high and low from searching here on MUD.
The video is quite well done, complete and is step by step. I bought all tools for less than $50, and the R12 from ebay for $100.



Pretty easy 1 banana job.
Good luck.
 
Nice, yeah this video and the FSM is all you need. Just be mindful and take your time.
The putting the can in warm water while filling trick works really great, can up right.
 
I'm not sure what its running...original but I'll check this video and really appreciate the help. I'll reply back once I've gotten it done so the world will know.
 
1 can of R12 added to my FJ62 resulted in center vent temps dropping from 65F to 44F. If you have significant R-12 still in the system (enough to cycle the compressor), I would consider just adding a can. Many people overthink this and spend hundreds of dollars needlessly. Shops may try to sell you a new compressor, etc.
 
1 can of R12 added to my FJ62 resulted in center vent temps dropping from 65F to 44F. If you have significant R-12 still in the system (enough to cycle the compressor), I would consider just adding a can. Many people overthink this and spend hundreds of dollars needlessly. Shops may try to sell you a new compressor, etc.
Nice. I was hoping for direct simple fix. I watched the video and while I was certainly willing to do what needed to be done seemed like way more than $50 of gear. Steve one more question where do you add the R12? There's the metal pipe passenger side that looks like the valve but I'm not certain.
 
I am trying to learn about this process also......but I don't think that is the correct IN!!! The two connections are on the compressor with black plastic caps or covers on them, if still installed.

Not trying to rob the thread here, but what would folks do if their compressor does not cycle on at all? I have not had a working AC since purchase. The AC vacuum switch is working and tested.
Thanks!
 
Run a jumper wire to the compressor wire to engage the clutch while you are filling. That’s what I did and a $5.99 can from autozone got mine cold again. Just jump it long enough for it to circulate it then return plug so system works as designed
 
You fill in the low pressure side which Is the larger diameter discharge hose.
 
Before attempting to put any R12 in your system, you should remove one of the fill caps and press on the Schrader valve. If you hear absolutely no 'hiss', that means the system is completely without refrigerant. Doesn't matter which cap you remove, because at this point, the high and low side pressures are the same.

If this is the case, you really should replace the receiver/dryer unit (cheap and good insurance), evacuate the system with a vacuum pump (not difficult), and then properly charge it with R12. I would never add (rare) R12 to an iffy system that may have air and moisture in it. It may not work at all, or it may 'sorta' work. You can evacuate it yourself with a vacuum pump, and R12 equipment is all over Craigslist and pawn shops. I am pretty much an A/C rookie, but I recharged an FZJ80 Land Cruiser system that had been open to the atmosphere for 6 mo. (snapped line) with a new receiver/dryer and it worked perfectly when done. I also rehabbed a Dodge Dakota pickup and it worked like new. The expansion valve in my '98 4Runner clogged, and after I replaced that and did an evac/recharge, it works great at 258K miles. It's very satisfying to fix A/C for under $100, instead of some shop intoning that you 'need a new compressor because it has a lot of miles on it....blah, blah' and charging you a fortune.

A/C isn't hard, but you have to understand the principles of the system and when in doubt, do a full evacuation (1/2 hour on a quality vacuum pump) and replace the receiver/dryer. After that, you simply charge it and you're good to go.
 
@pandasfj Great idea on o-ring replacement - any idea the part number for those devils? 90099-14131 is NLA
 
In. That looks promising.

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If your system is still R12, you can charge it using the sight glass on top of the drier. If you see bubbles in the glass when the A/C is running, then it's low on refrigerant. You can just add refrigerant, a small amount at a time, until there are no bubbles in the sight glass. You'll need a set of gauges to accomplish this.
 
Note that bubbles will briefly appear when the compressor cycles, and this is normal.

You can also add R12 until you get a nice cold center vent temp - (38-45) and quit at that point. Don't be a hero and keep adding refrigerant beyond a reasonable coolness point.
 

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