Chapel Hill 80 Series needs some EGR attention (1 Viewer)

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Sep 13, 2014
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Huntsville, AL
Hey Guys, at the recommendation from another member, he said to come here for help. I've only been here in North Carolina for a year and haven't really met that many people outside of work. Especially people that know these 80 Series.

So as most of us all do, have, or will have, I have the annoying P0401 EGR code. I have inspection coming up in October so I need to remove the issue in the next few weeks. I'm located in Chapel Hill so i'm looking for a local shop, place, or individual that understands the EGR system and how to check for failure in the different components.

I bit the bullet a few months ago and replaced everything: Solenoid, EGR valve , VSV. Also I have replaced the charcoal canister and the catalytic converter. Everything was replaced with Denso OEM and it didn't help. As I've gotten older i've realized sometimes it best to just ask somebody who knows way more than I do; instead of wasting hours looking for a problem.

I'm pretty busy so I figure I would take the opportunity reach out to possibly meet another member or a shop that comes recommended by the ih8mud family.

Thanks guys!

Also i will gladly compensate: Beer, Cash, Shooting the s***, Baby seals Blood, etc. Name your price.
 
Welcome!!

I don't know the FZJ80 PCV/EGR system at all, but we have lots of guys in the area that have experience. Come out to our monthly meeting tomorrow to meet up with some of us and get some advice!

Triangle Monthly Meeting - September 9th, 2015
 
A lot of people miss the gas cap gasket. Also carbon build up in the manifold.
 
Sorry no a gasket a seal.
 
Sorry no a gasket a seal.
Gas cap seal, that makes more sense. I had never heard of it but i wasn't going to question you till i checked for my self.

I don't think it would be that though. When my charcoal canister was bad it was holding the seal pretty good.
 
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There are numerous posts in the 80's Section on defeating the EGR, which I did when I had mine. Quite honestly, it seemed to run better/stronger for years and never a CEL. I snipped the EGR electrical connection to put in a resistor, and looped vacuum lines so it looked stock to the untrained eye (state inspection).Might be worth looking into instead of throwing more coin hoping to find the root cause............
 
There are numerous posts in the 80's Section on defeating the EGR, which I did when I had mine. Quite honestly, it seemed to run better/stronger for years and never a CEL. I snipped the EGR electrical connection to put in a resistor, and looped vacuum lines so it looked stock to the untrained eye (state inspection).Might be worth looking into instead of throwing more coin hoping to find the root cause............

Joe hates mother Earth ;)
 
There are numerous posts in the 80's Section on defeating the EGR, which I did when I had mine. Quite honestly, it seemed to run better/stronger for years and never a CEL. I snipped the EGR electrical connection to put in a resistor, and looped vacuum lines so it looked stock to the untrained eye (state inspection).Might be worth looking into instead of throwing more coin hoping to find the root cause............
Yea, I've spent countless hours reading those post too. I've fooled with it off and on for the past 10 months since the light came back on a week after inspection. If I do the resistor mod, will it still pass inspection when hooked to the OBD2 that the state uses. Or will it say "not ready" on the scanner.
 
Sounds like you skipped the cheapest part, vacuum lines. You may just have leaks.
 
Yea, I've spent countless hours reading those post too. I've fooled with it off and on for the past 10 months since the light came back on a week after inspection. If I do the resistor mod, will it still pass inspection when hooked to the OBD2 that the state uses. Or will it say "not ready" on the scanner.

At the garage I went to, never a problem - on my scanner I didn't have any codes or warnings, and the 80 passed inspection w/o issue.
 
I've got a bunch of parts to do the same thing on mine but I am going to do the VC gasket, plug tube seals and plugs at the same time and clean out the upper manifold to eliminate that possibility as well.
 
So yesterday I was fooling with at again, looking over anything I might have missed; rechecking vacuum hoses. The three tubes coming off the intake that lead to hoses did seem to have some blockage( or maybe it was in my head and I wanted them to be blocked so I found a problem finally) I cleaned them really good and cleared the code.

The code came back on this morning but I did drive 112 miles between yesterday a this morning. That's a lot longer than normal, so maybe I'm on to something.

There nothing better than the feeling that "FINALLY Its gone!", And then that orange light kicks You in the face.
 
Did you clean out the egr port in the manifold?
Yea, I did it the best I could with out taking the upper manifold off. I'm gonna break down and do it tomorrow. I've got the day off.

I've spent so make hours looking and researching, it's personal now. Doing the resistor would be admitting defeat.
 
Did you clean out the egr port in the manifold?

For the win .... this port is a regular offender and difficult to clean without removal.

In addition, if you have not already ... even though soft lines have been replaced the hard lines likely also need a good blowing out. Process ... spray in carb cleaner, compressed air, repeat.

EDIT: I see you mentioned cleaning some tubes in previous post.
 
I am sooooooo hoping none of this becomes an issue with Heather's truck before I do the swap. I am thinking it will be easier to do the swap :)
 
Did you do a North Carolina inspection?

Yes. I bought the 80 in 2006 in NC, it spent it's life here until I sold it.

I see in your subsequent posts you don't want to do the resistor, so I'll butt out after this - it cost $2 for a pack of resistors and took 3-5 minutes. :)
 

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