Changing spark plugs, wires, distributor cap...

[Bryanseye]

Last note, I recently joined my local Land Cruiser club (Olde North State Cruisers), and have found some really great, friendly people that are SUPER helpful with answering questions, and they never make you feel like you’re asking a dumb question. I just mention that to other new folks to encourage you that you might also want to seek out your local club if you haven’t already – the whole MUD community at large is just incredible – truly something special.

All the best,

Mike

Weddington, NC

Thanks for the nice writeup for maintenance often thought too simple to bother explaining. And hello from down 85 and Upstate Cruisers. ONSC is good folks.

 

[subzali]

Ha Ha nice thread bump! I was going to add that the tool kit spark plug wrench works pretty handy for getting to #6. Also suggest to do one project at a time, so yeah one could replace the distributor o-ring at the same time, but probably best to do plugs and wires, make sure it runs fine, and then do distributor. In case something is messed up it will help with troubleshooting.

 

[White wings]

Fingers crossed the misfire is gone.....she's warming up now

 

[GaryN]

Here are some part #s for the plastic covers/bolt and a parts image of one of the areas.
plastic covers: 11212-66011 and 11219-66011
bolt 90159-60508

 

[jatree]

Hi folks,

I’m new a relatively new Land Cruiser owner (1997) and new to auto DIY, and just changed out my spark plugs, associated wires, and popped on a new distributor cap and rotor. Thought I’d post my experience in case it might help other newbies like me…

I found a thread on MUD where others listed some steps, and also consulted the Toyota Land Cruiser Repair Manual and followed the steps.

First thing I did was remove the Air Cleaner hose and the “no.2 PCV hose” – this gets them out of the way for the next step. For me, on the air cleaner hose, it was easier for me to just loosen the clamp at the throttle body opening, and then unscrew the wingnut on top of the air cleaner/lid, lift it off, and then gently twist and pull the air cleaner hose off the throttle body, and slightly move it to the side; be mindful of the wires still attached. I also moved the throttle cable out of the way. (BTW, if I’m getting any of the names of the parts wrong, please correct me so I can learn).

View attachment 1282285


(continuing below...)

Thanks for the post. I'm about to tackle everything you just did here minus the spark plugs (records show they are only 2.5/9,000 miles old) but with the addition of both ventilation hoses and also for the first time. Trying to get my bearings before I begin.

I could be wrong but I believe the arrow in the diagram is pointing to the No. 2 ventilation hose but that's not the one with the PCV valve. That would be the No. 1 Ventilation Hose that is on the right side - from the front. I call it the PCV subassembly and it contains the following parts:

Engine	Vent Hose 1		12261-66021
PCV subassembly	Clips		90467-14001
	PCV Valve		12204-35040
	Grommet		90480-18001

Of course this is for a 1996 FZJ80 in the states. Perhaps there are other engines that have different hose configs.

Ha Ha nice thread bump! I was going to add that the tool kit spark plug wrench works pretty handy for getting to #6. Also suggest to do one project at a time, so yeah one could replace the distributor o-ring at the same time, but probably best to do plugs and wires, make sure it runs fine, and then do distributor. In case something is messed up it will help with troubleshooting.

Great tip - I was reading this thinking ok great I can do all my little projects at once but good point, way harder to troubleshoot that way.


My list is
- Plug and coil wires
- Both vent hoses (will probably not change the PCV valve) with new clips
- Distributor rotor, cap, packing (cap o-ring)

 

[jatree]

So I know about dielectic grease inside the spark plug wire boots but what about for distributor or coil connections - anyone use it there?

 

[BILT4ME]

So I know about dielectic grease inside the spark plug wire boots but what about for distributor or coil connections - anyone use it there?

Yes, but again, only around the inside of the BOOT. Not on the wire. You're trying to keep water out.

 

[wvprankster]

FYI the bolts for the trim cover over the plug wires are 10mm. You could have used a 10mm socket instead of trying to drill out the top.

This three year-old comment just saved me from destroying four perfectly functional 10 mm bolts because I thought they were stripped Philips head screws. Much obliged.

 

[Kernal]

AFAIK the reason for the hex head with JIS (almost Phillips) slots is to allow a nut driver or socket to be used to remove the bolts and a JIS screw driver (or bit) to tighten them, at least on the assembly line.

Reason being if you use a socket or nut driver to install the bolts it is more likely a gorilla might overtighten and snap the bolt head off or strip the threads in the valve cover, but if you use a JIS screwdriver to install the bolt the blades of the screwdriver (or bit) will cam out of the slots before you can apply enough torque to snap the bolt.

Of course you can use a socket or nut driver to install the bolts also, just get
them a hair past finger tight, not gorilla tight. FWIW

 

[jaymar]

Anyone have a number on the oem spark plug wire set?

 

[Kernal]

Spark plug wire set part number for a FZJ80 ?

90919-21557