If you have the cash , there are HID conversion kits available out there . Do a search under HID perhaps ; on this forum . It was mentioned by a fellow recently that got the either low or high HID's ... Liked them as I recall .
Yep - I ordered these lights last week from rallylights and just got off the phone with Christo (who now has a 2nd harness that allows 'plug and play' with aux lights as well as the original stock harness upgrade).
I added the 85wlow & 100w high with Slee's harness at the end of october.
Out of the box, right off the bat, two of the Hella bulbs blew out. One 85w low beam, one 100w high beam. Cant say enough good things about the guys at Susquehanna Motor Sports, they took care of me, sent me new bulbs at no cost to me, and were a refreshing pleasure to speak with on the phone.
Well this past tue's morning I go to start the truck to warm her up. Start, lights come on due to being set in the "auto-on" position on the light switch..... and the Damn low beam on the drivers side blows again???? So the replacement low beam lasted a little under 2 months.
To be clear, I DID NOT TOUCH THE BULBS, not any of them. Furthermore, I checked each one out thoroughly for grease smudges, was able to get a vacume to suck out the debris from the Lense case, and was able to insert the bulbs w/out brushing the bulb glass against anything that might have grease on it.
Don't know what the issue is here. Mabey high wattage halogens just arn't reliable in the long run???
I'm leaving the truck over break and will deal with it when I return. Inexpensive bulbs arn't cheap if they blow out every two months.
Additional info about the Susquehanna inventory. The one website link only shows halogens for the 9005/9006 configuration. Literature I got with the package of bulbs from them suggested they either previously had other 9005/9006 bulbs, or they had just added them and haven't updated the website. I just looked around the website and found this list http://catalog.com/susq/hella/bulbs.htm that has a Optilux XP & Optilux XB for the 9005/9006 set up. However I cant' find any other info on what they are. May be xenon.
I know it seems like I'm fretting over headlights. But its bloody dark up here for half the year. And last year driving back from the ski area, at night, along the coast, in rain/sleet/ice, the stock headlights were worthless. I actually stopped a few times to make sure they're still on. I was happy with my new bulbs, but if they're gonna blow all the time :
I previously saw a post on an LX site with someone switching out with the Syvania Silverstars. Personally don't know much about the switch (longterm, install etc..) other than dude was happy about it. Only thing he didn't like was the adjacent parking lights (clear covers on the LX) now looked "yellow" in comparison, so he was going to change those out to.
Let me know if you go this route and what you think about it.
I hear you man - and I'm a bit worried about it as well. I have already ordered a complete spare set (high and low). Based on Rally's web site, they make it clear that the lights are much more fragile and have a shorter life (something about 50hrs ). I figured I will give them a shot and if they don't work switch back. I may end up with stock low beams and see if I can keep the higher output high beams with the Slee harness.
Now that I'm getting the second harness from Slee as well, I'll need to follow-up with Hella 4000 fogs.
Along with upgrade wirings, I'm very happy with PIAA Xtreme White - Night vision is 100% better IMHO. Mine lasted about 2 years with lots of night drivings/trips; they are a bit expensive though (~$70.00).
I'm running on 80watts bulbs for about 6 months now; and the fact it's so damn bright lowered my priority for additional fog/driving lights.
Some have said a while ago that increasing light output would blind opposite direction drivers but this is vague since the beam pattern & focus is not changed at all.
I think that for those lights, you need to keep the lights off. What I mean to say is that you shouldn't leave the switch on all of the time. Cranking the car and turning it off sends spikes to the bulbs. So, you have to remember to cut them off before you turn the car off, and cut them on after you crank up. Makes sense. Those bastards are bright, but they do burn out quickly.
Thats exactly what I was thinking wob, however LAME that may be. I love the auto on feature. Especially given the light up here in winter, and that in Alaska its the law that you must have your headlights on, day & night, when on most stretches of state hwy.
I had the upgraded bulbs, but two blew out. I went back to stock wattage, but it SUCKS. I think I'm going to order about 10 85 and 100's each, and deal with changing them all of the time. It's too hard to go back when you have made the switch.
1) The Hella's rock, but are not as reliable as the older german made bulbs,
2) Tried silverstars, they suck
3) Most of the Blue bulbs (including PIAA) are not brighter but tinted. They have lower lumes output and callling them 80 watt equivilant is flat out lying, and
4) If you want to spend the money go to http://www.misterjung.com/ and get the 5200k kits (this guy gets how to make HID conversions and that higher color temp is not necessarly brighter). A 5200K kit is about the same output as a 130watt halegon.
I bought Mecca Tune's Hella 8300k HID set up and it is unbeliveable. 10minute set up and light output is day and night difference.
You can go with higher output and wiring change, but this was a best $350 I have spent and it wa so worth it!
Be very careful when buying these HID conversion kits. SOme of the ballasts and bulbs are really bad quality, so you want to go with name brand in this case such as Philips, Hella, Silvania.
See my post in the other thread about the german and korean bulbs.
I have not used the Mr. Jungs system, but have looked at many. I like his because 1) he uses quality ballasts, bulbs, connectors, and mounts, 2) he pays attention to getting the bulb filament in the correct place, essential to maintaining a beam pattern, and 3) he understands that higher color tempurature is not necessarly better, higher lumes are.
People don't realized that the bluer the light the more bad things that happen. Mainly, 1) greater light scatter due to shorter wavelengths, 2) more eye fatigue (thing the difference between cool white florecents and incadecent bulbs, and 3) less light output (lumes). Natural sunlight is 6500k color tempurature, why anyone would want bulbs that are blue (i.e. 8300k) is beyond me. The idea is get a nice white light, not a blue light.
Totally true. There are simulated HID's in the market for blue lights but less lum and Xenon gas ratio also changes the difference in lum.
I have looked at some of the 10000K and other 8300K HID and it is the ones with shorter wavelength hence shorter light penetration.
Once I have is the Hella Ballast with Philips light bulb with Xenon ratio of 98%. It is pure white with hint of blue and NOT bright blue or Purple hue like others.
Mercedes and BMW uses Hella units as a OEM.
I just put in the sylvania silver star's. I like them a lot..more whiter light than the standard halogens..but, not at the cost $$ of a HID system. The silverstars seem pretty good..had them in for 3 months already..and no complaints at all.