Changing Engine and Trans mounts on 3b (BJ42) Advice?

[DirtyLawyer]

Hey All,

Like the title says, I need to change all the mounts. I have the mounts, but before I dive in - any advice/suggestions? Any tools/equipment to make it easier? Anyone done this without a cherry picker? Thanks!

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hey All,

Like the title says, I need to change all the mounts. I have the mounts, but before I dive in - any advice/suggestions? Any tools/equipment to make it easier? Anyone done this without a cherry picker? Thanks!

I put a piece of wood and a jack under the oil pan and then take the weight of the engine.
Undo the bolts and remove the old mounts and fit the new ones.

 

[freebie]

Like Rosco says, just lift the engine enough to replace one at a time, you could lift on the bellhousing instead of the oil pan. The other mounts will hold the engine tranny in place while you lift the one your changing. The tranny mount will have to be replaced with the crossmember removed (dropped). This will mount will be easy to change once the weight is off the cross member, and the crossmember is unbolted from the frame.

Good Luck

 

[DirtyLawyer]

Thanks for the tips guys, all mounts now replaced.

 

[brownbear]

where did you buy your mounts? My driver side mount on my BJ60 is split and the engine lifts under torque. I have it chained right now to drive it. I have to save for some mounts, but would like to know where a good place to get them is. I was thinking Toyota OEM if they are still available. One thing I know for certain is I will have a limiting strap on that side of the engine so I don't break a new one too soon. Big hill climbs flex them too much,

 

[DirtyLawyer]

I got mine from Roodogs. Toyota of Canada had either only the engine or trans mounts and they were $$$$. Good luck amigo.

 

[Roberto]

I beleive thats where I bought mine as well, not too much in shipping coming from AUSTRALIA? I bought the rear trans mount and the side mounts, The rear trans mount was like $125

Rob

 

[eleblanc]

where did you buy your mounts? My driver side mount on my BJ60 is split and the engine lifts under torque. I have it chained right now to drive it. I have to save for some mounts, but would like to know where a good place to get them is. I was thinking Toyota OEM if they are still available. One thing I know for certain is I will have a limiting strap on that side of the engine so I don't break a new one too soon. Big hill climbs flex them too much,

Brownbear, didn't we discuss that? i don't think the 60 has the same mount. I bought them at the dealer 125$ if i remember.

 

[amaurer]

How do you know when a mount is broken? I have a clunk when I go over bumps that I thought was a bad shock, but its still there with the shock removed...

My mounts don't look great, its hard to tell but I think I can make out some damaged rubber.I jacked the motor up via the oil pan, but I could only lift it an inch and encountered strong resistance; felt like i was going to break something if I kept going. I looked at the mount and it had stretched a bit, but I couldn't tell if it was broken somehow.

Also, I get the clunk even over tiiiiny bumps, I'd assume it takes a bigger pothole to bounce something as heavy as the engine?

Sound like my mounts are ok or no?

 

[DirtyLawyer]

The way I knew mine was shot: I had a friend rev the engine and watched the mount separate at the rubber - it was visible. Not sure if all were shot, but given they were the originals - figured I's replace all 3 since it's a 3-way mount (if one part is out of whack, the others must pick up the slack).

When you jack up the engine under oil pan, make sure you have taken BOTH bolts off the engine mount - one on top, the other on the bottom. For me, the engine mounts were really easy. The trans mount is harder to get to. You will have to jack up bell housing, and then undo the various bolts - including the cross-member. I actually removed the steel plate on the undercarriage that protects the trans too - allowed easier access. I had to use a pipe on the wrench to get enough leverage to free them up. Might have to lift it up (motor or trans, depending on which one you are replacing) and set it down a few times to get holes lined up correctly.

 

[amaurer]

I went out and dropped the clutch once or twice to see what it felt like; no shaking or clunking... hmm.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I went out and dropped the clutch once or twice to see what it felt like; no shaking or clunking... hmm.

Usually the 1st sign of a broken mount is through the gearstick. It will want to rotate a little more than normal when you use the engines torque.

Mounts dont always break though,they can go soft from age or from oil leaking on them.

Your noise could be an exhaust or a suspension clunk ,maybe the bushes in your spring shackles are worn.

 

[amaurer]

Usually the 1st sign of a broken mount is through the gearstick. It will want to rotate a little more than normal when you use the engines torque.

Mounts dont always break though,they can go soft from age or from oil leaking on them.

Your noise could be an exhaust or a suspension clunk ,maybe the bushes in your spring shackles are worn.

Well, the exhaust is suspect for sure, its definitely making noises of its own. However I think they're unrelated, as the "clunk" comes from the left front while the exhaust problems are on the right or in the rear.

All my suspension bushings are brand new. Plus the clunk existed even before I changed the bushings out.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Well, the exhaust is suspect for sure, its definitely making noises of its own. However I think they're unrelated, as the "clunk" comes from the left front while the exhaust problems are on the right or in the rear.

All my suspension bushings are brand new. Plus the clunk existed even before I changed the bushings out.

All I can say is that I have had 6-7 broken engine mounts and they were all quiet. (except the time I broke them all at once and the engine turned 90 degrees)
A clunk is from 2 materials like metal banging together. I cant see how that would happen with rubber split or separating from the metal plates they are joined to.
The rubberwould still cushion it
You can get new mounts for $50 each ,change them and you will know for sure. If they look original they are probably soft by now anyway

 

[gettocruiser]

when my motor mounts were shot i would see the running engine do an incredible dance when i shut the fuel off manually.
i wonder about using a prybar to see if there is any weakness in the bond between the rubber and the metal.
eric

 

[Granite Grinder]

On my 3B, I could usually tell if the mount was pooched when I'd try to tighten an occasional bolt on the motor and I could twist the motor around. The drivers side on my BJ60 was the problem. Even after I replaced the mounts with new, they failed within three years. The last time I didn't even know they failed, usually the fan would hit the shroud as a tell tale sign.
GG

 

[amaurer]

I'm fairly certain my mounts are ok. There is no noise or shaking when dropping the clutch, the shifter doesn't wiggle, and the mounts were solid enough for me to wrench on the flywheel when doing the clutch. It was just an idea, guess thats not it....

 

[brownbear]

We need Nigri to post a picture of his limiting strap he made on his engine mount on the drivers side. I feel if you don't put a strap in there it will fail again in short order. Nature of the beast...

Funny thing is a broken driver mount is not noticeable until your offroad and under some load on a hill. Mine used to pop the t-case out of 4wd. For Moab I drove with a chain on it the whole time. It works, but is rough when your just driving around if you make the chain too tight.

 

[flightdoc99]

was wondering where did you buy the engine and transmission mounts for your 3B engine?

 

[DirtyLawyer]

was wondering where did you buy the engine and transmission mounts for your 3B engine?

I got mine from RooDogs in Australia...