Central Texas - Who to use (1 Viewer)

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want to get the 40 worked on - any suggestions in central texas? Just dont have the time do it myself and would rahter pay a couple hundred in labor to have it done right the first time! Who does quality work at a fair price?
 
Texican???



Baker Tire & Alignment


513 W Sam Rayburn Dr
Bonham, TX 75418-4213 Phone: (903) 583-4616



Close?


Great guy.
 
JK Customs....


Jason.


Trying to find his info....


:beer:
 
There is Wimberley 4 wheel drive in New Braunfels. Daniel Edone is a good guy who knows alot about cruisers. They are on 35 just south of San Marcos. #830-626-3111. What do you need done?

Michael
 
guenther65 said:
There is Wimberley 4 wheel drive in New Braunfels. Daniel Edone is a good guy who knows alot about cruisers. They are on 35 just south of San Marcos. #830-626-3111. What do you need done?

Michael


NO DO NOT go to Wimberley, they will rape you up the @$$! they charged the PO of my 40 $6000 to rebuilt the motor and it only lasted about 25,000 miles. i would stay away!
 
i have heard that about wimberly but have also heard positive things too. i expect to pay a little more for someone with cruiser knowledge, but at the same time dont want to raped! she sat for about 6 years before i got her and i rebuilt the carb myself and have done some other tinkering, but i have never really been able to get her to run right since i got her. hard to start and backfires when hot, and the steering is loose. i need carb work done (cannot keep her from running too rich no matter how much adjusting), manifold replaced, and someone to just generally look over the engine - she has no smog equipement and no matter how much looking i do at a diagram it is diffuclt to see what things should look like with none of it attached (not sure what can/should be plugged and what vacuum lines need to stay connected) - hence the willingness to pay a little more for cruiser specific knowledge. basically want to get her to the point where i could take her 55 down mopac without worrying, and dont have to look like an ass when she backfires in the parking garage at work and everyone ducks as if they were just shot at.

I have also heard about another guy edwin in pflugerville..any comments? feel free to pm me if you do not want to reply to this thread....thanks again for your help & comments.
 
Edwin did some work for my bro a few yrs ago and I've seen him tinker with cruisers at an event. I would go to him; seemed to be fair and works through problems; seems to have been around lots of 2fs. If you have a Weber that's why its running rich. A good stock carb is best. Fuel delivery, timing, and compression are things you could learn to check in a day. Valve adjustment are easy if you have the instructions and tools. 1: compression (are the rings or valves bad) 2: fuel delivery ; is the float window half full and throttle valve , primary, and secondary working; 3: timing; is it stock to begin with at 7 deg BTDC and are all the plugs firing ; 4: valve adjustment. It's hard to really make a stock carb run rich; they tend to run lean unless monkeyed with internally. Maybe you gots you some oil up in there that makes you think its "rich." If truly desmogged all you need to do is plug EVERYTHING and hook up the vac advance (hopefully its advance) to the dizzy from one of the two ports next to the lean/rich screw on the Passenger Side of the carb, low down and plug the other one. These motors tend to pre ignite or ping when healthy compression and desmogged; may have to back the timing off some. I'd prolly take it to Edwin. Word up.
 
Edwin in Pflugerville.
 
Did some business with Wimberly. Pretty good guys, been at it a long time, lots of cruisers in the yard and shop. BUT their prices are absolutely rediculous IMO. They had some pretty rusted out and totally bondoed cruisers in the 10k range and the one "restored" one I saw they wanted 22k for, hardly worth that maybe 12k or so :rolleyes:.

The only other thing to say bout them is that after having dealt with them some in the past I called down and talked to Dan who told me to come down on a saturday, so I make the 1 1/2 hour drive down from Killeen and dan's not around. His brother is weedeating in the yard so I go up to him and he commences to drop the F bomb at me along with every other word he knew because they supposedly weren't open for business. Well after a few minutes he calms down and lets me in. Apparently he doesn't like all the yuppies that have no clue and stop by on their days off asking about all the Heeps in the yard. Friggin anger management issues right there man. Look out. :eek:

Good guys altogether though. ;)
 
I'm leery of Wimberly. I first came in contact with Daniel when a buddy of mine was thinking about buying an FJ40 from him. It tells you something when a prospective buyer would have a medical student with clean fingernails go and check out a truck being sold by a "cruiser expert." Anyway, his shop/house was still out in the boonies near Wimberly at the time. The rig was a piece o' poo and didn't run much better than how you describe yours. No sale. That's not to say I wouldn't do business with Daniel (it's apparent from his cruiser junk collection that many others do), but the transaction would have to be very favorable to me for me to consider it.

That said, I agree with what DocB wrote. The 2F is really simple and easy to work on. Take the time to learn how it works and you can do better work on it than most others would be able to do. The Haynes manual is pretty good about explaining how the engine and smog system are supposed to work (I hear the factory smog manuals are pretty good too), and some of the tech links here on Mud will help you through the process of figuring out your desmog situation. If you take it to a shop this time, treat yourself to learning how to fix your junk for the future.

As a final note, I assume you think your truck is running rich because of the exhaust smell. More likely than not (especially if you have a toyota carb on there), it stinks because of incomplete combustion of the fuel in one or more cylinders--perhaps caused, ironically, by a lean mixture (due to vacuum leak, misrouted PCV valve, lean idle adjustment, leaky brake booster, etc.). Your backfire could be the uncombusted fuel igniting in the exhaust system.
 
I agree do the easy stuff and take it slowly. Start checking the obvious. It's really easy once you get the idea how stuff actually works. There is plenty of tech data on the baord. You can also do a search on some topics to get an idea.

You can spray carb cleaner on the manifold/exhaust to see if the manifold is leaking. if the engine revs up you have a leak. You can replace the gasket and check if it has any warpage. A local machine should be able to take it out if it's out of tolerance. The Haynes and factory manuals should have the specs.
 
Digging up old threads, but just was wondering if anyone knew if Edwin was still in the LC shop up in Pflugerville? I called and his number is disconnected and his site is down.


LCS is Edwin's shop out in Pflugerville:

LAND CRUISER SPECIALIST
100w Pflugerville Loop #118
Pflugerville, TX. 78660
Main Phone: 512-670-7525
Phone (alt): 512-917-6503
Fax: 512-670-7525

:cheers:

Tucker
 
Digging up old threads, but just was wondering if anyone knew if Edwin was still in the LC shop up in Pflugerville? I called and his number is disconnected and his site is down.
Edwin went belly-up... Jason @JK does only cages, bumpers,sliders& that sort of stuff, no mechanical...as for Wimberley? I pleed the 5th...
 
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The mechanic at Wimberly is good but you will pay for it. They are high dollar. Daniel owns the place, talk to him, his brother started working there but, don't talk to him , he's a prick.....
 

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