Centering the knuckle (1 Viewer)

[koxfarm]

There are previous threads about the topic and I thought I will post my own since I have this beautiful new toy to play with. My hub bearings were just about due and I thought I'll test the centering as well.

All parts removed, all bearing races knocked out, all studs removed, knuckle and hub body are totally cleaned (sandblast/wire brush) degreased and painted with a fast drying gloss black enamel.

Then new bearing races presser back in place, studs installed, new oil seal inserted. I use the Marlyn Crawler eco seal for its double lip security. Oem seal would do similar it has no difference on the use of the measuring tool.

 

[koxfarm]

The use of 09634-60014 is straight forward in the FSM. I run larger wheels so I torque to 3.5kg pull instead of the FSM 2-2.5kg. Obviously my total thickness will be less as the bearings are pressed in more than with lesser torque.
My total thickness was 2.3mm.

 

[koxfarm]

The second measurement with the hub on gave 4mm less the FSM's 3mm equals 1mm. That is my lower shim's reading.
The upper shim is given by the total (2.3mm) less the lower shim (1mm) equals to 1.3mm.
The key here is that the shaft is out 0.3mm hanging down to be balanced with the top shim. The other intersting thing is the knuckle turning preload.
FSM say 1.8-3.8kg the measuring of rhe total shim thickness happens at unpacked bearings at 2-2.5kg preload. That means if we presume that the bearings will be torqued to the same (close similar) than the increase of preload is caused by the friction of the dust felt at the assembled knuckle.
I run the double lip rubber seals by TG wich has a much tighter grip on the knuckle ball therefore the fully assembled knuckle has a totally out of range preload reading.
Finally I thought a lot about the geometry of this tool and the accuracy of the second measuring. The tool to be accurate has to be not only vertically identical as in the FSM but it has to be torqued to the same preload with the hub on as without. Otherwise the second line will not be accurate. Now it is close to impossible to torque a different setup (with or without the hub) to have the exact same preload. Can't even measure the same preload with a fish-scale accurately.
However, I have checked the Marlyn Crawler oil seal with the shaft in it and that double lip has more than 2.5mm tolerance to keep the rig oil tight.
I am pretty sure if I was only do the first measurement checking the total shim thickness and divide it by two and put in the closest shims to that thickness I wouldn't have any worst result, than following the second measurement and run the risk of inaccuracy as explained above.
I hope others will chime in about this argument here.

 

[BigDogg]

Where did you get your 4 upper and lower studs?

 

[7mag]

All that red bearing grease will separate and drip eventually. Moly grease at the birf is you friend.

 

[koxfarm]

Where did you get your 4 upper and lower studs?

Its just a Joint Fuji (Japanese) stud/cone/washers/nuts kit. I got it from a vendor in Aus but I believe it must be widely available in the US. Both sides were about $62.

 

[koxfarm]

All that red bearing grease will separate and drip eventually. Moly grease at the birf is you friend.

I thought Moly is good for sliding applications - like suspension joints.

Moly is NOT recommended for rolling applications like roller bearings or ball bearings.

Now this red I use is US made Timken marine grade waterresistant and high temp 350F grease. What would make it separate you think?
Its just a personal preference I guess as both will just work fine, but thanks for replying.

 

[Pumpkin Troopy]

that is nice looking work..

I have done a few of mine and I cant remember ever taking that degree of care...

I clean them up replace the seals grease the bearings use factory shims make sure hey are not nochy and then pump the centers full of molly grease normally at least two big tubes

Never had an issue.... but you do amazing work..

 

[7mag]

My exact thoughts were how thorough and extensive your rebuild is but yet you used red bearing grease in the center. Agree the red should be used for bearings. My comment was on the birfield and inner ball. I've personally seen red NGLi hi temp grease drip after a year or two with very few miles of use. The Timken may not do it as bad as other off the shelf brands though. Just hate to see all that work get messy. Again, very nice!