Centering Steering Wheel (1 Viewer)

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Jun 3, 2005
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Centennial, CO
I got my truck aligned after upgrading to the Slinky/Icon suspension, and after that, I made a couple more suspension/steering tweaks to reduce vibrations and driveline noise. Now my steering wheel is off by about 10* to clockwise.
To avoid paying for another alignment, since the truck drives straight and should, as I only made a small track bar adjustment, is the best way to take off the steering wheel, adjust it to be straight, then be done with it?
 
Probably not the best or easiest way to straighten things out. Slacken off the locks on the relay rod (the bar that runs from the pitman arm). Twisting this rod will align the steering correctly. Depending on your OCD levels, It may take a few attempts to get the steering wheel aligned perfectly..
 
I got my truck aligned after upgrading to the Slinky/Icon suspension, and after that, I made a couple more suspension/steering tweaks to reduce vibrations and driveline noise. Now my steering wheel is off by about 10* to clockwise.
To avoid paying for another alignment, since the truck drives straight and should, as I only made a small track bar adjustment, is the best way to take off the steering wheel, adjust it to be straight, then be done with it?
No. Any adjustments should be done with the relay rod.
 
After a lift the relay rod will be too short.
If the steering wheel is off center to the left, the relay rod is too long.
If the steering wheel is off center to the right, the relay rod is too short.
It usually takes me 2 or 3 tries to get it juuuuuust right.
 
Thanks guys. I’ll give this a shot and post some pictures so we can make this a good informational thread.
 
How do you know when the wheels are straight to determine the steering wheel position to determine how far to roll the bar to make wheel straight?
Or is it relative?
For example, driving straight - down a straight road - the steering wheel is X degrees off center.
When I get back to where I can work on the truck, would I simply roll the relay bar to move the steering wheel the same #of degrees in the appropriate, opposite direction and re-eval with a road test?
It's not one of those differential adjustments is it? Ex, 10deg off center needs a 5deg correction in the opposite direction to find center. (doesn't seem right, but asking in case)
 
It’s really just a “feel” thing. How I do it - Drive in a straight enough line (driveway, parking lot, etc), come to a stop, and adjust the wheel as close to center as you can.. turn the bar a bit, check the wheel, etc. Then drive around for a general feel... track along a straight road, move the wheel left & right within its little bit of free-play to see if it feels equal in each direction, and adjust from there as necessary by repeating the first part. Don’t forget to re-tighten the bar before driving again! Usually takes just a couple small tweaks. Doesn’t have to be perfect, just close enough to not bother you.
 
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How do you know when the wheels are straight to determine the steering wheel position to determine how far to roll the bar to make wheel straight?
You drive the car on the road. If the car is going straight when you let go of the steering wheel, then the wheels are straight.
The length of the relay rod ONLY effects steering wheel center. It has no effect on alignment and its adjustment is not what I would call "critical". If my steering wheel is off a bit (like it is right now) I get used to it. But when I notice it, it annoys me.
I'll make it right...eventually.
 
You drive the car on the road. If the car is going straight when you let go of the steering wheel, then the wheels are straight.
Lol. Right.
I think what I didn't get is that this driving/adjusting/driving/adjusting thing is done with the relay rod already loosened for adjustment. Wasn't aware that was 'safe enough' to do. This is the only way I can get to a straight road, drive for effect, stop, adjust, drive again, etc.

Otherwise, I'm driving 2 miles from where I can make adjustments to where a straight road is to check. Then back two miles to where i can park, loosen the rod, adjust, tighten, and back out two miles to a straight road to check.
It was when I got back to where I can make adjustments...how do I know the wheels are straight at that point to have a reference to know how much to adjust.
But I get it now. :bang: 👍
 
Lol. Right.
I think what I didn't get is that this driving/adjusting/driving/adjusting thing is done with the relay rod already loosened for adjustment. Wasn't aware that was 'safe enough' to do. This is the only way I can get to a straight road, drive for effect, stop, adjust, drive again, etc.

Otherwise, I'm driving 2 miles from where I can make adjustments to where a straight road is to check. Then back two miles to where i can park, loosen the rod, adjust, tighten, and back out two miles to a straight road to check.
It was when I got back to where I can make adjustments...how do I know the wheels are straight at that point to have a reference to know how much to adjust.
But I get it now. :bang: 👍
A little trick: make a mental note of the position of the steering wheel when driving straight. Get back home or wherever you want to do the adjustment and position the steering wheel in "mental note position". Leave the ignition key in the ACC position so the wheel remains unlocked. If the truck is parked on a hard surface, as you adjust the relay rod, the steering wheel will turn.
 
At least in my mind, it’s easiest to do it in a place where you can just come to a stop while driving straight, rather than taking note of the wheel and attempting to center it later. I guess that may be difficult, depending where you live. I think a parking lot is good enough…

Maybe I am wrong, but I don’t think you should leave the rod loose while driving, which is why I noted that earlier. It’s super easy to loosen and retighten.. find an area where it’s no problem to stop & hop under the truck for 30 seconds
 
This is the relay rod. It works great as a steering wheel adjuster, which is good because that’s what it was designed for.

I had to slide the clamps off of the binder ends and spray with a penetrant beforehand. I used PB Blaster and then a plumbers wrench to move the rod. I was able to roll mine forward, just like you said SpenserAK. It took close to a full revolution to move my steering wheel about 10* counterclockwise.

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