Centering Steering Wheel after Rack Replacement (1 Viewer)

[NorCalFJ100]

Are there any pros/cons or differences to centering the steering wheel from the input shaft VS pulling the wheel and centering there? Seems like they both accomplish the same thing. When there's no connection to the input shaft, the wheel just spins endlessly. So it would seem if the wheel is off center, once the rack is centered of course....you can just pull the wheel and center it up top there.

Am I missing something?

 

[Ayune]

Don’t spin the steering wheel when it’s disconnected from the rack, you will break the clockspring that connects to the airbag.

1. Center the rack by measuring lengths of the left & right output shafts.

2. Center the steering wheel (& clockspring) by gently rotating the wheel until you feel slight resistance, then back again about 2.5 turns and the wheel is straight.

You can correct slight misalignment by pulling the steering wheel and/or adjusting the tie rod ends, but there is only one way to do it 100% correct, and that’s by ensuring both rack and clockspring are centered before mating the shaft to the rack.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Don’t spin the steering wheel when it’s disconnected from the rack, you will break the clockspring that connects to the airbag.

1. Center the rack by measuring lengths of the left & right output shafts.

2. Center the steering wheel (& clockspring) by gently rotating the wheel until you feel slight resistance, then back again about 2.5 turns and the wheel is straight.

You can correct slight misalignment by pulling the steering wheel and/or adjusting the tie rod ends, but there is only one way to do it 100% correct, and that’s by ensuring both rack and clockspring are centered before mating the shaft to the rack.

Is there an easier way to pull the shaft from the rack without loosening up the steering rack and hoses?

I can certainly measure the left and right side.

I spent all day on this and was exhausted. I got everything nice and tight and was thinking I could fix the wheel from the top. But it makes sense what you're saying.

Thank you.

 

[Ayune]

I feel your pain, it is a difficult job.

I found that leaving the driver side of the rack loose until the end allows you to disengage/reengage the shaft at the rack while you test the steering wheel centering. I could pivot the rack forward and backward to disengage/reengage the shaft and adjust the input spline alignment. Once it’s perfect then install the driver side rack bolts. The hoses can stay connected this whole time, they can flex.

 

[Smiles]

Are there any pros/cons or differences to centering the steering wheel from the input shaft VS pulling the wheel and centering there? Seems like they both accomplish the same thing. When there's no connection to the input shaft, the wheel just spins endlessly. So it would seem if the wheel is off center, once the rack is centered of course....you can just pull the wheel and center it up top there.

Am I missing something?

This may help, it's an extract from the FSM.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

@Ayune Thank you for the encouragement! I got it dialed in with your tips...BUT i got it all back together and the steering wheel is off quite a bit! It was perfect before. I counted the threads on the my outer tie rods when I did the job. I am debating on whether or not I should take it in and have the toe checked or try to adjust the wheel.

@Smiles Thank you for that! It's very helpful! Although as mentioned above, I think I still got the input shaft off a few splines.

 

[Patassa]

So it's possible to make small adjustments to the tie rods to straighten up the steering wheel without screwing up the alignment, per the procedure above?

 

[Smiles]

So it's possible to make small adjustments to the tie rods to straighten up the steering wheel without screwing up the alignment, per the procedure above?

Yes, just follow the instructions in SR-10 & SR-11 from 100 series FSM, it worked for me, good luck.