Truck ran fine with no CEL's for about 800 miles after HG repair, then got a P0325, front knock sensor. Looked with a flashlight and a mirror and sure enough the wire had pulled out of the connector going into the sensor. I thought, holy crap, I can barely see it much less fix it. But after checking the forum found that it could be done without taking off the intake manifold.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/286287-p0325-cel-knock-sensor-connector-repair.html
By disconnecting the oil dipstick, freeing up the power steering reservoir, and removing a ground wire that's right there you can not only see it but actually get a hand in there. Part # 82219-35010 is a 4Runner connector that will fit into our knock sensor. Cost 13 bucks. It has a single wire coming out of that can be spliced to the wire coming out of the wire harness. I used a weatherproof "quick splice" and checked the continuity with a tester.
The original connector has a locking tab which faces down. You can grab the connector with some needle-nose pliers and it pulls right out. Now simply push in the new connector until you hear a very gratifying "click" sound and you're done.
That wire harness is very fragile at this age. A lot of the connectors had broken tabs and the insulation was brittle, dry and rubbed off in places. I actually priced a complete wire harness from the local dealer, thinking it might be a reasonable insurance policy. About $7000 !!! So guess I'll just keep fixing things as they pop up.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/286287-p0325-cel-knock-sensor-connector-repair.html
By disconnecting the oil dipstick, freeing up the power steering reservoir, and removing a ground wire that's right there you can not only see it but actually get a hand in there. Part # 82219-35010 is a 4Runner connector that will fit into our knock sensor. Cost 13 bucks. It has a single wire coming out of that can be spliced to the wire coming out of the wire harness. I used a weatherproof "quick splice" and checked the continuity with a tester.
The original connector has a locking tab which faces down. You can grab the connector with some needle-nose pliers and it pulls right out. Now simply push in the new connector until you hear a very gratifying "click" sound and you're done.
That wire harness is very fragile at this age. A lot of the connectors had broken tabs and the insulation was brittle, dry and rubbed off in places. I actually priced a complete wire harness from the local dealer, thinking it might be a reasonable insurance policy. About $7000 !!! So guess I'll just keep fixing things as they pop up.
