CDL Stuck, won't disengage (1 Viewer)

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Jun 7, 2005
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There are quite a few threads on this already, even though the solution may be the same in end I couldn't seem to find anything with my scenario.

I have a new to me 1995 FZJ80 with 213k. There is no CDL switch. I only have a CDL and NO diff locks. I was able to test out low range / 4wd over the weekend and now the CDL will not unlock. It is not stuck in low range only the CDL is engaged, I can tell because my turning radius is terrible, and I can feel the front scrubbing / plowing.

Using the threads here and the write up from Steve on PNW adventures

Things I looked at:
- drive backwards a lot, only did about half circle when I was dirt.
- relay audibly clicks going into low range
- relay DOES NOT audibly click going into high range
- 6 ohms across actuator pins 2 and 3
- open circuit (infinite resistance I guess) between 2 or 3 and ground
- L4 switch verified working
- relay has continuity between 1-2, 2-4 and NOT 6-7
- Im by myself but I can not hear the actuator motor even trying, and nothing with a paper clip
- fuses are good, although the diff one is only 20amps

I was not able to do the voltage checks because I don't have the tiny aligator clips but they are on the way.

Does anything jump out at you?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

arndog
 
Have you tried to bypass the relay and just hotwire the actuator?
I had a friend add a CDL switch and it wasn't working properly. Hot wire cycling the actuator cleared it up.
You may have some corrosion on the bits or wire ends.
 
Oh, and probably the biggest effect on blending white is the color of the primer underneath. I don't know what Toyota used under 045.
 
I haven't tried to hotwire it, you are talking about just applying voltage to pins 2 and 3 on the actuator right?
 
Yes. I just jumped at the relay location. But you could certainly just use a source and jump the actuator directly.
 
Well not a permanent solution but I was able to get the CDL unlocked by actuating the motor with a 9V battery. It wasnt like a binary fix, I ended up with the entire thing on jack stands and kept the battery connected while rotating the tires, it might have unlocked after applying power and drove, but it wasn't immediate when I first connected the battery. I want to head to the mountains this weekend so Ill stay out of low and next week mess with the relay to make sure its operating correctly, and probably add a switch and the 7 pin mod. Thanks for the tip gnob.
 
Well not a permanent solution but I was able to get the CDL unlocked by actuating the motor with a 9V battery. It wasnt like a binary fix, I ended up with the entire thing on jack stands and kept the battery connected while rotating the tires, it might have unlocked after applying power and drove, but it wasn't immediate when I first connected the battery. I want to head to the mountains this weekend so Ill stay out of low and next week mess with the relay to make sure its operating correctly, and probably add a switch and the 7 pin mod. Thanks for the tip gnob.
You can get it unlocked then pull the fuse so it won't lock at all. Then you can use low range for better crawling, you just will have difficulty if you lift a wheel while crawling.
 
drive backwards a lot, only did about half circle when I was dirt.
Possibly a silly recommendation, but I would say 'go backwards in N, preferably in straight line, pavement as less-adherent as possible, and with some bumps'. Try to tick as many of these boxes as possible. The ideal setup is a stratight and steep track section. You wish the transmission to unwind, and achiving it on asphalt is not that easy.

Good luck!
 
yanking the fuse is a great idea BILT4ME. Cutrex are you thinking trans in nuetral or transfer case? Im still leaning toward the relay as there was definitely no audible click when shifting back into HI and no motor noise, vs, going into LO I could here the click.
 
I just watched this video, and noticed he removed a plug from the connector and it had what looked like a jumper on the plug. I just removed my dash to put a mic on my radio and my connector definitely did not have this plug and of curse the jumper. Could this be why?
 
I just watched this video, and noticed he removed a plug from the connector and it had what looked like a jumper on the plug. I just removed my dash to put a mic on my radio and my connector definitely did not have this plug and of curse the jumper. Could this be why?
Yes, this is exactly why.
 
You can use your hazard switch as a temporary cdl switch to unlock the cdl if this ever happens again. Less than 5 minutes with a screwdriver to pull the hvac bezel.
 

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