CATASTROPHE!!! Transfer Case Broken... (1 Viewer)

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Not so catastrpphic after all... Transfer Case Broken...

Ok, so I just emptied out the ATF from the transfer case and filled it with gear oil. I was snugging up the fill plug (read: snugging) and it went from almost tight to loose, then broken off. Its like it was broken to begin with, like someone took an impact wrench to the fill plug (thanks Jiffy Lube!, the PO had it serviced there). The pictures below illustrate the resulting carnage.

I almost threw up when it happened, this is ridiculous.

Picture 1 - The portion of Aluminum stuck to the fill plug, notice the top-to-bottom crack.
broken_1.jpg


Picture 2 - The backside of the fill plug and aluminum chunk.
broken_2.jpg


Picture 3 - The transfer case, missing portion of metal.
broken_3.jpg


This sucks, anyone know where I can get a cheap HF2AV transfer case?
 
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You can get an rubber expansion plug that will probably work good enough to use the case you own. An expert tig welder probably could also repair the case.

Just out of curiosity, why is it painted red?
 
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I think the red paint is from Jiffy Lube, the oil pan plug, and the rear diff plugs were also painted red as if to indicate "This fluid was changed".
 

semlin

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that does suck

that paint is not a very jiffy lube like thing to do. more a jethro's garage thing with jethro painting the holes so junior know which ones to undo while jethro has a chew.

I see threads in what is left and I have to think that is saveable. wonder if you could grind it flat, weld a new ring on and retap it. it will cost you a tow to a good welding/machine shop to find out.

oh and you need a manicure :flipoff2:
 
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semlin said:
that does suck

that paint is not a very jiffy lube like thing to do. more a jethro's garage thing with jethro painting the holes so junior know which ones to undo while jethro has a chew.

I see threads in what is left and I have to think that is saveable. wonder if you could grind it flat, weld a new ring on and retap it. it will cost you a tow to a good welding/machine shop to find out.

oh and you need a manicure :flipoff2:

Hey man, my fingernails are perfectly within spec :flipoff2:

The more I think about it I think it is repairable and at least I don't feel like barfing anymore. I'll probably do whatever it takes to get it fixed.

I've received three good alternatives to replacing the xfer case, keep em' coming!

I appreciate the advice guys!
 
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Most expensive option - getting new T-case. Not really an option (or shouldn't be)

Most viable option - as mentioned, getting a TIG welder in there. Its a tight space, bad angle, but small job. Maybe $100 and leave the truck there all day so when the welder has a break he can do it...

Poor man's fix - Use the 3 threads you have. You shouldn't be developing any pressure in there so you could use those threads and give the bolt 1/16th of a turn after its fingertight. I'd also install a rubber/poly gasket to help prevent any weeping that might take place. In my 60 where the threads were actually stripped I used teflon tape to "take up the slack" - it worked fine. You may choose to do this, too...

That bolt was installed way too tight for the aluminum to crack like that. While I don't know what the bolt torque spec is supposed to be, I can guarantee it would be torqued somewhere in the in/lbs range.


Cheers...
 
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I second getting it welded back on. Take the broke off peice into a reputable welding shop and have a talk with them. It's just a fill hole, not like you cracked the case in half. I've never paid to have anything welded, but shouldn't be too bad.
 
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I'd use brake cleaner to clean the threads left in the case, and either teflon tape sealant or RTV to put the plug in and have some tension. Then find a shop that can weld and retap that hole at your convenience. It sucks, but this is not something to drop huge $$$ over replacing the unit. It's done all the time - the repair that is.

This case sees only a mild pressure change from getting warm due to the large air volume. So, keep an eye on it while you're driving around to find someone who can do a quality repair without ripping your head off. For instance, the top local guy (extremely talented and sought after) charged only $100 to grind and weld a crack in my 80's head, including removing a threaded plug and welding the resulting hole shut with a plate. Much more technical that what is being done here.

Also agree with Rich that a simple expanding rubber plug would work fine as well. They have a metal plate embedded in the rubber and a screw on the outer end. You screw it and the plug expands with easily enough force to stop unpressurized gear oil.

Lots of options here - don't freak out. Get that manicure from Madge and relax....

DougM
 

Waggoner5

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I gave Christo both the mid section and rear tailshaft section out of my 96 truck. Call him and see if it will work for you. I think it will.
Gary
 
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IdahoDoug said:
I'd use brake cleaner to clean the threads left in the case, and either teflon tape sealant or RTV to put the plug in and have some tension. Then find a shop that can weld and retap that hole at your convenience. It sucks, but this is not something to drop huge $$$ over replacing the unit. It's done all the time - the repair that is.

This case sees only a mild pressure change from getting warm due to the large air volume. So, keep an eye on it while you're driving around to find someone who can do a quality repair without ripping your head off. For instance, the top local guy (extremely talented and sought after) charged only $100 to grind and weld a crack in my 80's head, including removing a threaded plug and welding the resulting hole shut with a plate. Much more technical that what is being done here.

Also agree with Rich that a simple expanding rubber plug would work fine as well. They have a metal plate embedded in the rubber and a screw on the outer end. You screw it and the plug expands with easily enough force to stop unpressurized gear oil.

Lots of options here - don't freak out. Get that manicure from Madge and relax....

DougM

Well I think I have a game plan now. I'm gonna put a rubber expansion plug in it for now then have it welded up later. I got a very generous offer from a fellow mudder on the welding fix and I'll probably follow through on that route.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

And thanks for letting me know how bad I need a manicure :flipoff2:
 
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cruiserdan said:
It there a clear enough paper trail to lead back to the idiot that did it in the first place?

Unfortunately, no, the PO didn't even have the receipt from the Toyota dealership that replaced the radiator.
 

e9999

Gotta get outta here...
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no problem
weld it or
rethread it or
drill and thread for a plate to cover the hole
etc
 

RAYJON

Get a bigger hammer..
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LandCruiserPhilJB weld

Now I am a redneck and I wouldn't even go that far.. " JB Weld"......

If you want to do it right pull the case down and then have it welded and retaped. Like it has been said it isn't that bad and could be done with the case in the vehicle but I would just pull it apart... Mainly so I didn't have to tig it in a contorted position and could get all the way arround it and get a good clean weld without getting it hot....


BTW the only places I have seen paint are some fleet operators and the Jethro comment it right.....
 

scottm

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I think that's a metric, tapered pipe thread, the remaining thread may be pretty tight for your fill plug. You might need to run a tap in just a little more to open the diameter so you can use your OEM plug. Take the plug with you and find a tap you can borrow or buy. Put tapping paste or some kind of thick grease on the tap to retain the shavings, and turn it in just a little. Take it out, clean any shavings you can find, try the plug, clean and re-grease the tap, repeat. That fill plug just needs to be just tight enough so it doesn't rattle out, it's not even holding fluid in, that looks like plenty of thread. If you're nervous about tightening it, use medium-strength threadlocker on it. I'm not sure the rubber plug will hold up to heat or oil for very long.
 

Gumby

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Unfortunately, the bolt head is big and the wrenches that fit on them are often very long. Some bonehead got a bit carried away with one.

It's the reason why you don't see any more 7/8" or 1" oil drain plugs any more. They all went to 13 or 14 mm.
 
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Rich said:
You can get an rubber expansion plug that will probably work good enough to use the case you own. An expert tig welder probably could also repair the case.

Just out of curiosity, why is it painted red?

Could the red paint be some kind of Jiffy Lube application to tell whether the drain plug had been removed after they serviced it? That way you couldn't come back and say they didn't tighten the plug.
 

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