Catalytic Converters Stolen: USAA only covering non-CARB compliant replacement. (1 Viewer)

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And yeah @bicycleagent003, simple is new here. I have ignored him already due to this thread, but just looked at his post history and see that he is a very new 80 owner. Worth trying to save, hopefully.
 
Sorry to hear about the catalytic converter theft. I also have USAA but my deductible is $1000 so I'd probably just pay for the replacement out of pocket at a muffler shop.

It still baffles me there are places that will buy used and stolen catalytic converters. I've read similar stories about parking at PDX and have planned an upcoming trip accordingly (not leaving my car there).
 
@aclos3 that sucks for sure. I was recently joking with some local guys that I somewhat "wanted" mine to get stolen so I had a real excuse to convert to a '95 and up exhaust. I think I will retract my "wish."
I remember reading the Magnaflow/Bosal thread quite a while ago, but can't remember if materials and workmanship fell off or if it was just crappy looking welds for a while.
I'm bummed to hear from people that USAA seems to be turning bad. I've had them almost 20 years, so maybe it's time to do some comparison shopping?
Good luck with getting a decent solution figured out.
 
both my old 95 4runner and current 95 LC had their cats chopped off. 4runner about 14 years ago and the LC in the last 2. i am saddened to hear its still a thing.

didn't consider going through insurance (USAA as well) with a $500 deductible. had a friend weld in universal replacements.

what really grinds my gears is the thieves make a mess of the pipes. chopping off the mounts, etc.
 
@MrMikeyG, based on @zapatius and @BadReligion's suggestions, I think I may reconsider the Magnaflow/Bosal option. I could perhaps retain the upper portion of my factory Y-pipe and weld in a single Magnaflow cat, or just go with a new Magnaflow Y-pipe and single cat -- it seems the single cat option works well for most people. I too am really bummed about the USAA experience. I think they decided to compete with the big insurance companies with lots of advertising and cheaper rates.
 
@MrMikeyG, based on @zapatius and @BadReligion's suggestions, I think I may reconsider the Magnaflow/Bosal option. I could perhaps retain the upper portion of my factory Y-pipe and weld in a single Magnaflow cat, or just go with a new Magnaflow Y-pipe and single cat -- it seems the single cat option works well for most people. I too am really bummed about the USAA experience. I think they decided to compete with the big insurance companies with lots of advertising and cheaper rates.
I have used the Magnaflow Y-Pipe w/ Cat and the Magnaflow 2nd Cat as well as a Bosal muffler with the factory tailpipe and resonator.

Fit was excellent.

I sprayed the steel exhaust with 1000°F clear paint with 3 coats before I installed it. It's a little louder than the stock exhaust, but it works well.

I got the Y-Pipe and Cat from O'Reilly's and the Bosal from Rockauto.

I fully expect the exhaust to be "worn out" within 4 years and 80,000 miles on it. Then I'll get to do it again.

Mine is a DD so it will last much longer than those that sit a lot.
 
Did you type that with a straight face? Because that is hilarious and contradictory. Pre-incident would suggest a used part which they don't do for exhausts. If an aftermarket part exists insurance will use that before factory. Don't like it then take it up with that multi billion dollar industry. Call the manager of USAA lol

No way I could work in an industry where I had to deal with the public. I would tell so many people to take their "i am the most important person in the world" mentality and find another company to be insured by. When I deal with insurance and I get a quote I usually have no comment as estimators do this work everyday all day and outside of a few mistakes are pretty darn good at getting me maximum benefit for an incident. Just cut me a check and I'll DIY and pocket the change. I wouldn't even go to insurance for a Cat as it is under $500 at a muffler shop and I can get a cage installed while I am there. It is so bad in Oregon they had to pass a law to stop the nonsense of businesses buying these obviously stolen goods from meth heads.
This sounds pretty ignorant. Insurance companies are in a business to make money and they do that by trying to pay out as little as possible.

If you just take whatever deal an insurance company offers with no comment than you are letting them take you to the cleaners.

State farm wanted to give me $2,800.00 for my totaled 91. A month later they gave me a check for $10,200.00
 
You keep your non-CARB compliant Landcruiser off our streets, California is a saint! - That's all the Step Brother's reference you're getting from me.

In other words? You live in Oregon, the catalytic converter was stolen in Oregon, I'd say you're getting an Oregon compliant catalytic converter. It's not illegal to drive your vehicle from Oregon to California (or any other state, rather) but if you ever decided to register it here, I don't think it'll matter anyway. My 4Runner has a California Carb Compliant catalytic converter on it now (the original needed to be replaced) but my 4Runner has a build date of December 1988 and it's from Colorado. But ANOTHER stipulation to consider is... no one questioned my 4Runner because it had the stock catalytic converter with no identification markings on it. What will the California smog shops say if you were to attempt to smog it here and it's got a visible serial number on it that states otherwise?

I think it's just hit or miss at this point. A good smog tech will check the catalytic converter. A bad smog tech will ignore it and test it anyway.
 
Cable security cages seem to work well:
ccw-3.png

From the City of Garden Grove website:
Security devices are available that attach to the converter, making it harder to steal. Having the converter welded in place also makes it more difficult to remove. If you have a security system on your car, calibrate it so vibration sets it off. This ensures the alarm activates if a thief tries to saw off the converter. Video surveillance around your garage or driveway is also useful if you have the budget for it. Engrave your VIN number onto your catalytic converter to make it easier to identify in case it does get stolen.​

Another nice looking one, I don't know who makes these:
rgc0a6mwwd081.jpg

And here's one that practically speaks the meth-heads own language:
6svvsna5vdx71.jpg

(Sorry for posting this through edits. I'm on mobile and when I pressed 'insert' on the image, it submitted the post!)
 
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@BILT4ME Thank you for the info about the Magnaflow/Bosal -- I am leaning more that route after hearing that they may have fixed that quality issue a few years ago.

@MaK92 4RnR, I thought you could register a non-California compliant car there as long as it was equipped with its factory emissions devices and over a certain age. Otherwise a huge portion of people moving to the state would have problems registering the cars they bring with them, right? As you pointed out though, if I have a clearly modified (non-factory) device installed on my car that is not CARB compliant, they are likely to make me change it.
 
@BILT4ME Thank you for the info about the Magnaflow/Bosal -- I am leaning more that route after hearing that they may have fixed that quality issue a few years ago.

@MaK92 4RnR, I thought you could register a non-California compliant car there as long as it was equipped with its factory emissions devices and over a certain age. Otherwise a huge portion of people moving to the state would have problems registering the cars they bring with them, right? As you pointed out though, if I have a clearly modified (non-factory) device installed on my car that is not CARB compliant, they are likely to make me change it.
Well, that's the thing. I know California used to acknowledge "federal" vehicles and I THINK smog stations held them to a different standard but I don't know. Like I said, I have a federal 4Runner but it was registered here in California way before a "serial number", "stamp", or "CARB numbers" existed on Catalytic Converters. I think you're right, though. If it's clearly an aftermarket catalytic converter that has a serial number on it that isn't California compliant, they're gonna ding you for it.
 
What are the laws where you live. If your rig is a 50 state, then you need a 50 state CAT. Check your state insurance laws for car repairs.

Also.
Smog-EPA.JPG
 
Cable security cages seem to work well:
ccw-3.png

From the City of Garden Grove website:
Security devices are available that attach to the converter, making it harder to steal. Having the converter welded in place also makes it more difficult to remove. If you have a security system on your car, calibrate it so vibration sets it off. This ensures the alarm activates if a thief tries to saw off the converter. Video surveillance around your garage or driveway is also useful if you have the budget for it. Engrave your VIN number onto your catalytic converter to make it easier to identify in case it does get stolen.​

Another nice looking one, I don't know who makes these:
rgc0a6mwwd081.jpg

And here's one that practically speaks the meth-heads own language:
6svvsna5vdx71.jpg

(Sorry for posting this through edits. I'm on mobile and when I pressed 'insert' on the image, it submitted the post!)
Those are interesting but you could cut them off pretty easy with some bolt cutters. Not saying they wouldn't help deter people. I like the razor wire touch on that last one...until I go to crawl under the truck for maintenance...
 
And yeah @bicycleagent003, simple is new here. I have ignored him already due to this thread, but just looked at his post history and see that he is a very new 80 owner. Worth trying to save, hopefully.
Just like all the other cool rare vehicles I've owned....it's just a car. I use it, fix it, and sell it just like the rest.

Now the other stuff I collect I might be more attached to but they are way more fun than a 4x4 mall crawler.

I've avoided model specific forums for many years now (been on forums for 25 years). I've learned my lesson on why I got out of them. "Passionate" people get very protective of their specific interests. It always cracks me up that Toyota owners can be like that when I thought the Range Rover and Jeep people were quirky.

BTW I've got a Silverado with a 4.8 liter low mileage engine in it that just sits there. I'll be tapping into the "non-purists" here to tackle that project but I'm not in any rush. Glad everyone here isn't all about OEM only. Different strokes and all that.
 
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Those are interesting but you could cut them off pretty easy with some bolt cutters. Not saying they wouldn't help deter people. I like the razor wire touch on that last one...until I go to crawl under the truck for maintenance...
Everything I've read and seen online indicates that their tool of choice is a battery powered reciprocating saw. Those have a hard time cutting the cables because they bounce around.

I don't think the people stealing cats are going to bring multiple tools. I also doubt that they'd have room to operate bolt cutters long enough to cut those.

Regardless, it's all a game of just being enough of a deterrent to make them move on. More time and more tools means more chance of being caught.
 
This sounds pretty ignorant. Insurance companies are in a business to make money and they do that by trying to pay out as little as possible.

If you just take whatever deal an insurance company offers with no comment than you are letting them take you to the cleaners.

State farm wanted to give me $2,800.00 for my totaled 91. A month later they gave me a check for $10,200.00
Ignorant huh? Funny I remember getting $10k for hail damage on a car, pocketed it, and sold the car 6 years later and the buyer couldn't tell it even had hail damage but still gave me over asking price. $10k paid for a lot of laundry detergent

On your point...don't stick around with insurance companies too long, they always make sure they make their payout money back. I usually move a year or so after a claim. Claims happen. Win some and lose some. Oh well.
 
If you all are buying your insurance direct from an insurance company like geico, State Farm or whatever, your paying too much.

You need an agent, seriously, if you have multiple cars they can save you hundreds per month and provide better coverage. No joke, always use an agent.
 
@SmokingRocks , I like the idea of an agent who operates locally, but doesn't it seem like it would cost more to have a dedicated agent? I will almost surely be shopping for a new insurance company after this and I will reach out to some local agents to see what they come up with.

As to the cost though, I think my two vehicle policy for my wife and I only cost around $475 every six months. This is for a newer Honda Odyssey and the LX450 with full coverage and $1000 deductibles. I'm not sure how much more there really is to save, although switching to Geico now would save me about $50 every six months.
 
@SmokingRocks , I like the idea of an agent who operates locally, but doesn't it seem like it would cost more to have a dedicated agent? I will almost surely be shopping for a new insurance company after this and I will reach out to some local agents to see what they come up with.

As to the cost though, I think my two vehicle policy for my wife and I only cost around $475 every six months. This is for a newer Honda Odyssey and the LX450 with full coverage and $1000 deductibles. I'm not sure how much more there really is to save, although switching to Geico now would save me about $50 every six months.
Make sure you ask for the difference in actual cost of premium for $1000 deductible and compare it to a $0 deductible. You may be surprised at the small difference.

Mine was about $5 per YEAR. It will take a LONG time to cover that $1000 deductible for the higher risk in the city and as many miles as I drive.
 
@SmokingRocks , I like the idea of an agent who operates locally, but doesn't it seem like it would cost more to have a dedicated agent? I will almost surely be shopping for a new insurance company after this and I will reach out to some local agents to see what they come up with.

As to the cost though, I think my two vehicle policy for my wife and I only cost around $475 every six months. This is for a newer Honda Odyssey and the LX450 with full coverage and $1000 deductibles. I'm not sure how much more there really is to save, although switching to Geico now would save me about $50 every six months.
I’m paying for 3 cars through GEICO. Two land cruisers and a beater. Both cruisers have comprehensive and collision with $250 deductibles. I pay $340 every 6 months.

Through USAA I only insured two cars and I paid about $550 every 6 months with a $1000 deductibles.

Granted, I have zero demerits against my record but I’m not sure if there’s any more money to be saved.
 

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