Catalytic Converter/FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[Goosedog]

I recently had the power steering pressure hose replaced on my truck (1985 FJ60/daily driver). Once I got it back, the truck was very sluggish/high rpms without much power. Prior to the new hose, the truck was very responsive to the gas. My mechanic now tells me I need to replace the catalytic converter before the carb can be properly adjusted.

Two questions: (1) does that sound like it could be the problem, and (2) if so, any problem with just getting a catalytic converter from Meineke (I'm told that would be around $250 vs. $1000 from the dealer)? Thanks in advance.

 

[soggy60]

quick, so-so quality, test of cat:

With vacuum guage connected to intake, rev-rev engine . . .
Watch for vac change after letting revs decrease.
Slow change typically means congested exhaust system.

If you not worried about the smog stuff working 'correctly', any ol cat will do
the cat-conversion of ex gas . . .

 

[Pluton]

No need to buy the dealer cat. Exact fit,bolt-on replacement cats can be had for $200 or less...check this board for sources. 2 gaskets, maybe some new bolts/nuts: easy job. Might as well check the rubber exhaust hangers while your're there(buy the OEM hangers.) Plus, you don't hack up the exhaust pipes the way the muffler shop typically does. As to whether or not YOUR cat is bad, don't know; try that vacuum test.

 

[NocalFJ60]

I agree first try to see if you have an exhuast restriction. If you don't care about smog, no need to get a new CAT unless something is wrong with it and it is restricting the flow. It could also be the heat riser valve I think it is called which is suppose to open fully on the bottom of the exhuast manifold when it gets hot. You shouldn't need to adjust the carb for some other problem that happened.

It is a easy job to install one yourself. I did it here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=38627

Heat Riser post

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=45898

 

[chitown40]

I'll bet that the mechanic somehow damaged the bi-metal coil spring on the front side of the exhaust manifold thereby damaging the heat riser valve. When my heat riser valve stuck closed, I had poor performance especially at higher RPMs. The power steering is pretty close to the bi-metal coil so I'd put my money there.

There is no fix for the coil except to replace the intake manifold, however you can rig it to stay open all the time which will only cause extended carb-warmup times rather than the opposite of exhaust restriction.

Good luck and hope this sheds some light for ya.

 

[Tinker]

Take your skid plate off & smack your cat (sounds nasty, donut?) with a rubber mallet. If it sounds like loose gravel, it's probably bad. Also, if you can borrow a laser thermometer, check the input & output temps after warming up. Should be lots hotter on exit if working.

I got the cat for my '83 at allcatalyticconverters.com IIRC. Good price, fit perfect, works great.

 

[Goosedog]

Thanks everyone for the responses. Someone mentioned that there might be a vacuum hose diagram here somewhere. Does anyone happen to know where it might be? Thanks again.

 

[import silvia]

For just $250 I made a complete 2.5 exhaust from the manifold back, including a hi flow cat and muffler. Make friends with a welder, the cost in beer should be way worth it.

And if your in Tucson, I like beer.....

 

[toyman317]

Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the cat with a straight pipe and if so, where to buy one?