Cargo Dome light "Door" position (1 Viewer)

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Rob Faucett

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Apr 19, 2006
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66
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645
Location
Seattle, WA
The door position on the dome light in my cargo area does not work. Assuming it should work does anybody have ideas on how to track down the problem? I can't find a sensor that would tell the system that the door is open. Where is that and has anybody had that stick in the "closed position?" The light works fine when the switch is in "On" so its not a fuse or bulb issue.

Thanks for any help you can offer.
BTW, Georges LEDs are incredible upgrades. :bounce2:


Rob
 
I just looked on my 60 and couldn't find the indicator either.

Mine works so it never occured to me to look for it.

But now I am interested to know where it is :D
 
For future reference, rear hatch door sensor

The sensor is inside the latch of the upper half of the door. My sensor is loose/busted so not sending. This pic is looking up from the tailgate into the access panel.

Getting the latch out of the door looks like a real knuckle buster.

I'd love to hear if other people have solved this problem some way other than replaceing the latch

BTW - SOR wants $118 for this part.:eek:

Thanks
Rob
Rear_Door_Sensor_60.jpg
 
I would suspect it is a mercury switch (like used on automatic hood lights). Could be the switch, or wires that have given up the ghost.
 
yea my cargo light works in either side so i jus leave it off till i need it guess the switch is busted on mine.

i like the idea of a mercury switch... may have to do that someday would be pretty easy to do.
 
The sensor is inside the latch of the upper half of the door. My sensor is loose/busted so not sending. This pic is looking up from the tailgate into the access panel.

Getting the latch out of the door looks like a real knuckle buster.

I'd love to hear if other people have solved this problem some way other than replaceing the latch

BTW - SOR wants $118 for this part.:eek:

Thanks
Rob

So the sensor is near the hatch button??

Is this correct?
 
The switch is built into the rear hatch latch. When the latch is in the open position, it makes a ground contact. Problem spots are a rusty latch assembly or rusty hinges (the circuit goes to ground from hatch through the hinges to body).
 
I just want to make sure the wire is hooked up correctly first ;)
 
Pull the cover off and you'll see the wire attached to the lock mech. Unplug the wire and then ground it. If the light goes on, you have a dirty or worn out lock/switch. If grounding the wire doesn't turn on the light, then the wire is likely broken. Mine broke inside the rubber hose that connects the hatch to the body. I guess 20 years of opening the hatch finally killed it.
 
You could put a red bulb in for even cooler effects.
 
Hatch light wouldn't come on automatically (just installed George's LED) so I started tracing the ground from the latch switch (which didn't work either).

Do you think this had anything to do with it?
081206.jpg
 
is this the same on the 62, I just installed george's leds and while looking at the switch was wondering the same thing, " why doesn't the light come on when I open the hatch?"

this morning I found some pushbutton switches similar to door switches, I took pictures of but cannot post right now, to see if anyone could identify them,, maybe I have one of these from a 62 I parted many years ago,,, anyone got a pic of an uninstalled one, or a better pic of an installed one?
 
3 -
Look farther up in this thread for the latch/switch pic. Mine didn't ground properly so I ground off some paint around the mounting holes, scuffed up the mating surface on the latch & screw holes, cleaned the latch/switch with brake cleaner & blew it out, & re-assembled it with dialectric grease at the contact points.

BTW - to remove the latch/switch, shoot the white nylon keeper on the lock cylinder with silicone lube, pull out the rod, unscrew the pushbutton, fold the rods to the driver's side, & slide the latch/switch to the passenger side (after removing the 3 bolts, obviously).
 
My switch (part of the handle) is kind of broken. So, I leave the switch in the off position otherwise the light flashes on and off. I am thinking of wiring the rear light to the front dome light so it all lights up at once. The pin switch is another good option.

Dynosoar:zilla

P.S. I run Georges LED's as well, and they rule!
 
I figured some of it out, the pic make sense when you remove the 3 10 mm bolts on the hatch and the 10 or so phillips head screws,,,but I cannot figure out how to remove the catch without breaking the plastic retainers,, other than spraying with silicone or wd40,, I am prone to breaking stuff like this, any back up plan????????

I am assuming the parts are somewhat rebuildable, any input>? any one done this or do you just replace the part? mine is pretty dusty so I expect to clean and grease and be done with it, but I am plannng on the worst
 

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