GA Architect
SILVER Star
That is a ball check retainer: 21538-31010
Note: It is a small spring in the shape of an 'e'.
Carb rebuild dificulties (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kerplunk
- Start date
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That is a ball check retainer: 21538-31010
Note: It is a small spring in the shape of an 'e'.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
^^^
That is correct...good description.
That is correct...good description.
- Thread starter
- #23
After getting sidetracked with replacing the radiator and issues with the wiring to the starter, I return to this little project.
I bought a new clip from Toyota. Looking online, couldn't find anyone else selling it. But the local Toyota dealer was able to get one within a day (had to have the part number myself, they don't seen to be able to lookup anything pre 1981, and it was about $10).
And, it wouldn't install... So, I enlisted the help of my 13 year old son!!! better eyes. He was sure of what I suspected, that I had managed to flatten the center of the "e" against the side, and was able to get a small knife blade inside the flattened part and remove it. New clip installed!!!
So now, after a month, I'm looking at the bag of remaining part and pictures I took. I knew I'd make this harder than it needs to be.
I bought a new clip from Toyota. Looking online, couldn't find anyone else selling it. But the local Toyota dealer was able to get one within a day (had to have the part number myself, they don't seen to be able to lookup anything pre 1981, and it was about $10).
And, it wouldn't install... So, I enlisted the help of my 13 year old son!!! better eyes. He was sure of what I suspected, that I had managed to flatten the center of the "e" against the side, and was able to get a small knife blade inside the flattened part and remove it. New clip installed!!!
So now, after a month, I'm looking at the bag of remaining part and pictures I took. I knew I'd make this harder than it needs to be.
KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
I just ripped apart my original 73 carb for a rebuild, I have the same issue with that piece not coming out. Soaking in the Chemdip right now.
- Thread starter
- #25
My carb had some signs of being rebuilt before. I had bought it used, and decided to try and rebuild before using it.
So, when I found that wouldn't come apart, and appeared "staked", I left it alone. Have it almost reassembled now and will test the accel pump soon to decided if that's the smart idea.
But, looking at the color of the float bowl in your picture, that looks like something that's probably a little more in need of cleaning than what I started with.
KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
Yea. After dipping, it came out pretty clean. Just years of sitting with crap gas. Using compressed air made that valve move up and down, but still wouldn’t come out. I did find the seal that goes on top smashed into the bowl gasket. Hopefully it comes together and I can get rid of the Weber.
I have found that a bog on acceleration, of idle can be a faulty accelerator pump. If you still have the original Toyota plunger, keep it if it is good. Sadly if the carb has been rebuilt the original is probably gone, as new ones are included in the kit. If you have the two side by side the difference in quality is quite apparent.
In either case, the plunger is the shaft with the leather piston on the end. I have had several of the rebuild kit ones go in, but they will not flare/swell to provide an effective seal. They may still squirt gas upon checking them, purely by compression of the fluid in the bore, but they are not providing full force pressure and the required cc's of fuel.
I usually have to flare the leather out so it fits tight in the shaft, and I also soak it in some light oil to swell them up before install. That seems to make them work perfectly after that as long you don't let the carb totally dry out after sitting for years again kind of thing.
Also stroke length is important and can be manipulated by bending the long connecting rod that comes up from the base throttle workings. If the carb has been dropped or otherwise munched that long rod could be bowed and not pushing up enough to get the full stroke, I think the manual and rebuild instructions with the kit both give the spec, something like 9.5 mm as I recall. The spray should be forceful, and misty to ensure good induction of the fuel into the airflow. A badly scored bore will allow leaks just like any piston and cylinder, carb is toast if it has been eating serious dirt, main culprit is the baffled rubber cover for the top. Again, the rebuild kit ones are crappy, original ones are better rubber, the kit ones crack and fail within a year or two.
Glad to see the "e" clip part number, I had one two rusty to reuse, it broke, didn't know you could still get one. I'll order a couple.
In either case, the plunger is the shaft with the leather piston on the end. I have had several of the rebuild kit ones go in, but they will not flare/swell to provide an effective seal. They may still squirt gas upon checking them, purely by compression of the fluid in the bore, but they are not providing full force pressure and the required cc's of fuel.
I usually have to flare the leather out so it fits tight in the shaft, and I also soak it in some light oil to swell them up before install. That seems to make them work perfectly after that as long you don't let the carb totally dry out after sitting for years again kind of thing.
Also stroke length is important and can be manipulated by bending the long connecting rod that comes up from the base throttle workings. If the carb has been dropped or otherwise munched that long rod could be bowed and not pushing up enough to get the full stroke, I think the manual and rebuild instructions with the kit both give the spec, something like 9.5 mm as I recall. The spray should be forceful, and misty to ensure good induction of the fuel into the airflow. A badly scored bore will allow leaks just like any piston and cylinder, carb is toast if it has been eating serious dirt, main culprit is the baffled rubber cover for the top. Again, the rebuild kit ones are crappy, original ones are better rubber, the kit ones crack and fail within a year or two.
Glad to see the "e" clip part number, I had one two rusty to reuse, it broke, didn't know you could still get one. I'll order a couple.
