Carb Question (1 Viewer)

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Hi, I have a Weber 32/36 on my 1973 with the original engine.

I'm not great with carburetors at all. It seems like it either has too much fuel and it diesels upon shutoff, or it starves for power because it's too lean.

Am I doing something wrong? Should I get a bigger carb? I've been told these ones don't have enough airflow but I wouldn't know.

There just doesn't seem to be a sweet spot that I can find.

Thanks in advance!
 
I had the same problem on my 73 , rebuilt the 32/36 didn't help. I upgraded to a 38/38 from TPI and have had no problems ever since. I looked for the aisin carb for awhile and finally gave up, to expensive and always need a rebuild when you do find one. Yes nothing beats original equipment but my carb problems are solved and now I just turn the key and go. Good luck
 
They don't come with them, but, they sell anti-dieseling solenoids for the idle jet(s) holders on Webers.

I tried a 32/36 for an afternoon on my 2F. The only way I could get it to idle was to increase the bump stop on the secondary (the screw is only accessible from the bottom). It was running rich, and the carb would have to be jetted properly jetted. I'm still haven't determined for myself if a 32/36 is adequate for a Land Cruiser.

I like the design of the Weber's pump jet orifice - keeps fuel from getting hung up on the walls of the carb. I also like that there are jets available for the Weber, for altitude compensation.

The other thing that is nice about the Weber is an auto choke option means that someone other than yourself wouldn't struggle driving it. I took my other vehicle (with a manual choke) to the shop, and asked if they needed manual choke explanation. They said no, that they had seen a choked vehicle before. When I picked it up from the shop, the mechanic asked if I got good fuel economy with that carb and engine. I thought, what an odd question. When I was driving home, the engine would barely idle. It turned out that the mechanic messed with the idle settings.
 
32/36 is ok with an F
38/38 is ok with a 2F

Most China copies get an F

All get an F as an upgrade because the owner expects a lot without jetting them or may have underlying issues other than carb :meh:

I have been running the same weber for about 29 yrs
 
I had the same problem on my 73 , rebuilt the 32/36 didn't help. I upgraded to a 38/38 from TPI and have had no problems ever since. I looked for the aisin carb for awhile and finally gave up, to expensive and always need a rebuild when you do find one. Yes nothing beats original equipment but my carb problems are solved and now I just turn the key and go. Good luck
Thank you! I actually recently received a 73 Aisin carb among other things when I bought a bunch of parts from a guy off Craigslist. I am way too scared to install a 40 year old carb though.

I've heard I should upgrade to the 38/38. I thought it was a Weber model? Not sure what TPI means.

Also, what do you think made the difference? More airflow? Bigger jets?
 
aisin would be recommended if you can get one. Or give the weber a good cleanout for starters, and check the vacuum lines. Has it always done this?
Here is some info on tuning, Tuning Weber 32/36 on a 2F
The Weber is only a year old. I bought it to replace the nasty 32/36 that was on it when I purchased the truck a few years ago.

I actually recently got a 73 aisin carb in a trade but I didn't even consider installing it because it's 40 years old and I'm probably not skilled enough to get it running properly.

Thanks for the info! It's clean and there is no vacuum leak.
 
32/36 is ok with an F
38/38 is ok with a 2F

Most China copies get an F

All get an F as an upgrade because the owner expects a lot without jetting them or may have underlying issues other than carb :meh:

I have been running the same weber for about 29 yrs
What do you mean, "most China copies get an F"? Copies of what?
 
They don't come with them, but, they sell anti-dieseling solenoids for the idle jet(s) holders on Webers.

I tried a 32/36 for an afternoon on my 2F. The only way I could get it to idle was to increase the bump stop on the secondary (the screw is only accessible from the bottom). It was running rich, and the carb would have to be jetted properly jetted. I'm still haven't determined for myself if a 32/36 is adequate for a Land Cruiser.

I like the design of the Weber's pump jet orifice - keeps fuel from getting hung up on the walls of the carb. I also like that there are jets available for the Weber, for altitude compensation.

The other thing that is nice about the Weber is an auto choke option means that someone other than yourself wouldn't struggle driving it. I took my other vehicle (with a manual choke) to the shop, and asked if they needed manual choke explanation. They said no, that they had seen a choked vehicle before. When I picked it up from the shop, the mechanic asked if I got good fuel economy with that carb and engine. I thought, what an odd question. When I was driving home, the engine would barely idle. It turned out that the mechanic messed with the idle settings.
Yeah I had an auto choke 32/36 when I bought the truck but it was a nasty carb. I replaced it with a brand new one with manual choke because I just think manual choke is better.

Anti-dieseling solenoid?? Very intriguing. I am definitely not informed enough on carburetors to be understand how that would work. I feel like I shouldn't need something like that if I had a proper carburetor that was tuned correctly 🤷‍♂️ but maybe I'm wrong
 
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I have a Weber 38 that came on my ‘78 40. Runs really well. I rebuilt it about 2k miles ago. Recently bought a stock carb and rebuilt it. It will be going on the truck soon so the Weber 38 is up for sale. Let me know if you are interested and I can box it up and ship it off.
 
Here is one of them. I think that you can get one for both the idle jets (as in the case for the 38/38, or a tricked-out 32/36).

Dieseling is a problem when you have glowing carbon that is igniting your fuel. It shouldn't be added to fix the problem with dieseling, for that you might want to address the problem directly (tune, and valve stem seals), but it would be a nice addition if you want to to add a kill switch (to frustrate a thief). There is a dedicated wire in the Land Cruiser harness for a carb solenoid.

My other vehicle (2.4L 4-cylinder) runs a DGV (32/36). With the mess of an original carb, it dieseled. Once I got the tune correct on the swapped Weber (and verified it with an exhaust sniffer, and readout), it essentially stopped dieseling.

Some of the Weber carbs, are not real Webers, they come from a knock-off company, and have a bad reputation on the internet.
 
You could look into the holley sniper FI system. I know a couple of folks on here are running them. I know some folks have had good luck with trollhole (I have one) or city racer carbs if they are still selling them. City racer was selling one made in Japan (Fuji) I have one but haven't used it as my trolhole one is still doing fine.
 
TPI landcruisers is the fender, just Google TPI Weber 38/38 and you'll get all the info you need on Weber's, they say they sale only real Weber's quaranteed. I not to savy on carb adjustments just know that I bolted on the carb, adjusted the timing a bit and no more problems. On to the next project.
 
TPI is an old and respected tlc company and I would not hesitate to order from them

There are many Chinese copy Weber’s being sold for cheap ... if it doesn’t have weber logo embossed on the top ... it is not a weber ... and most likely going to give you grief... jetting is usually way off ... warped bases ... metal shavings in bowl ... aka grief

If you ever see a 34/34 or 36/36 these Weber’s were made through Solex and are complete junk ... they were sold for a few years and were pulled from the USA market ... very problematic mostly under load issues .... avoid these at all costs


Weber’s made by weber ...
32/36 for an F
38/38 for a 2F
 
Oops TPI Vender , yes excellent company to do business with🍺
 
Here is one of them. I think that you can get one for both the idle jets (as in the case for the 38/38, or a tricked-out 32/36).

Dieseling is a problem when you have glowing carbon that is igniting your fuel. It shouldn't be added to fix the problem with dieseling, for that you might want to address the problem directly (tune, and valve stem seals), but it would be a nice addition if you want to to add a kill switch (to frustrate a thief). There is a dedicated wire in the Land Cruiser harness for a carb solenoid.

My other vehicle (2.4L 4-cylinder) runs a DGV (32/36). With the mess of an original carb, it dieseled. Once I got the tune correct on the swapped Weber (and verified it with an exhaust sniffer, and readout), it essentially stopped dieseling.

Some of the Weber carbs, are not real Webers, they come from a knock-off company, and have a bad reputation on the internet.
Woah woah woah I'm very intrigued.

First off, where can I locate this dedicated wire for a kill switch? And is "redline" one of the knockoff Weber's?

Also, 2.4L-swapped 40?!
 
I don't know much about the '73 harness. I once owned a '73, but it lacked the original harness.

I try to get my Weber stuff from Piece Manifolds - their free tutorial video taught me quite a bit, and so they usually get my dollar. However, Redline is the actual carb that I run on my other vehicle, a Nissan 720 pickup.

I like to keep my dollars in the Land Cruiser family, anyone who's doing it for old Land Cruisers, the TLCA, or Ih8mud.
 
Mrjordan, I am running a 32/36 on my rig with no issues. I have a 74’ 40 with an F1.5. I followed the setup procedures on redlines website and it took a while but I finally dialed it in. I also had to go up a jet size on the idle jet (which accounts for around 80% of your performance for that carb). So keep at it before you scrap it!
 

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