Builds Car souq pickup (1 Viewer)

[WarDamnEagle]

I just finished changing out all the locks. Not too bad; took me about 1.5 hours. Would have been much less but I really struggled to get the new ignition lock cylinder to go all the way in. There is an O ring and it was an absolute bitch to get it to go in that last mm. Pondered that for a while to make absolutely sure it was the right cylinder and finally tried it without the O ring and it popped right in. I wanted to use the O ring so I finally used some channel locks and some thick rubber padding to "gently" press it home.

If any of you own 25+ yo 70's you should order a new lock set. It was worth every penny of $200 and more. Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't ever bother to try to rekey old sets....assuming of course you can get new cylinders and locks. Not sure I'll ever lock the glove box but at least there's no white residue on the latch. Also noticed that the new gas cap fits much tighter. Probably should order a spare gasket or two if available.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Often when I am reading these threads and come across an issue that someone is having it prompts me to look into the spare parts situation that might help. Someone in the last couple of weeks was having an instrument cluster issue that they were trying to solve with wire and solder. That prompted me to confirm that my instrument cluster was NLA (which I knew) but I did find that the circuit plate was still available. Good insurance value for $34.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I ordered the gasket that @Honger mentioned and proceeded to remove my air inlet and put the gasket on the carburetor. It fit perfectly and was the same as the old gasket that was sitting there loosely on the carburetor when I pulled the air inlet. However when I proceeded to reassemble, the raised portion of the gasket wouldn't go in the air assembly and the gasket would, therefore, bulge out to one side when tightened. I then took a few inside caliber readings and "confirmed" that this gasket wouldn't work.

So later I'm sitting at my desk looking at the gasket and noticed that it is grooved between the flat and the raised portion and it hit me. Disassembled the air inlet again, installed the gasket with the groove in the air inlet opening and wa la it's perfect. Clearly my old gasket had come out or had been taken out at some point and some other individual was as clueless as me as to how to get it back together. All good now. Thanks!

@JuanJ this air inlet doesn't look like it ever had a gasket glued onto the small flat portion that mates to the carburetor and this gasket works perfectly. Not sure what's up with the parts diagrams.

Looks good sitting on the carb but doesn't work unless you install it on the air inlet first. Probably another one of those things that everyone but me knows.

 

[FJ73Texas]

My truck came with one key that fit the ignition and doors but not the locking gas cap or glovebox. I recently tried to get a new glovebox latch with lock but they are NLA. Mine works fine but it looks like someone put whiteout on it and wiped it off leaving white paint in the veining. The paint or whatever it is will not come off. Yes a minor thing I know. I realized a few days ago that you could get the NLA glovebox latch with lock if you bought a set of locks and keys. There are a few variations of this set still available. This one was just under $200 and includes the ignition cylinder, both doors, glovebox latch with lock, bed mounted spare tire lock, and two locking gas caps. The set comes with 3 keys and everything is keyed identical. At first I thought I was being a bit frivolous but by the time you get the locks changed on the gas cap and the glovebox you are probably 1/4 of the way there.

I made the decision for my glovebox lock to require a different key than the ignition key on my 77. I know it is a personal preference.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I made the decision for my glovebox lock to require a different key than the ignition key on my 77. I know it is a personal preference.

I just wanted a clean latch and took the set as it came. Doubt I will ever lock it but at least I could now if I wanted to. I will say there is a noticeable difference in the operation of new door locks and ignition cylinder vs the 26 year old ones. Quickly becoming my favorite replacement.

 

[Honger]

I ordered the gasket that @Honger mentioned and proceeded to remove my air inlet and put the gasket on the carburetor. It fit perfectly and was the same as the old gasket that was sitting there loosely on the carburetor when I pulled the air inlet. However when I proceeded to reassemble, the raised portion of the gasket wouldn't go in the air assembly and the gasket would, therefore, bulge out to one side when tightened. I then took a few inside caliber readings and "confirmed" that this gasket wouldn't work.

So later I'm sitting at my desk looking at the gasket and noticed that it is grooved between the flat and the raised portion and it hit me. Disassembled the air inlet again, installed the gasket with the groove in the air inlet opening and wa la it's perfect. Clearly my old gasket had come out or had been taken out at some point and some other individual was as clueless as me as to how to get it back together. All good now. Thanks!

@JuanJ this air inlet doesn't look like it ever had a gasket glued onto the small flat portion that mates to the carburetor and this gasket works perfectly. Not sure what's up with the parts diagrams.

Looks good sitting on the carb but doesn't work unless you install it on the air inlet first. Probably another one of those things that everyone but me knows.

View attachment 2470677

View attachment 2470678

Doh! I never did measure mine but you took the leap and it worked out. Awesome. Also you gave me a good pointer to go check on my gasket... I think mine bulged also and your solution is the obviously correct way to install it. Well done man!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Doh! I never did measure mine but you took the leap and it worked out. Awesome. Also you gave me a good pointer to go check on my gasket... I think mine bulged also and your solution is the obviously correct way to install it. Well done man!

No worries. I was placing an order.....$5 wasn't much of a leap.

 

[JuanJ]

I ordered the gasket that @Honger mentioned and proceeded to remove my air inlet and put the gasket on the carburetor. It fit perfectly and was the same as the old gasket that was sitting there loosely on the carburetor when I pulled the air inlet. However when I proceeded to reassemble, the raised portion of the gasket wouldn't go in the air assembly and the gasket would, therefore, bulge out to one side when tightened. I then took a few inside caliber readings and "confirmed" that this gasket wouldn't work.

So later I'm sitting at my desk looking at the gasket and noticed that it is grooved between the flat and the raised portion and it hit me. Disassembled the air inlet again, installed the gasket with the groove in the air inlet opening and wa la it's perfect. Clearly my old gasket had come out or had been taken out at some point and some other individual was as clueless as me as to how to get it back together. All good now. Thanks!

@JuanJ this air inlet doesn't look like it ever had a gasket glued onto the small flat portion that mates to the carburetor and this gasket works perfectly. Not sure what's up with the parts diagrams.

Looks good sitting on the carb but doesn't work unless you install it on the air inlet first. Probably another one of those things that everyone but me knows.

Hello,

Maybe the gasket separated from the duct over the years. Or the duct includes the gasket without an additional part number.

I think it is clever to have the gasket mounted in this way. It makes it easier to assemble.

Thank you for the post. Mine is still holding but this repair is on the list.






Juan

 

[JuanJ]

I made the decision for my glovebox lock to require a different key than the ignition key on my 77. I know it is a personal preference.

Hello,

Not necessarily a personal preference.

Maybe I am stating the obvious here.

70 Series in my neck of the woods came with two ignition keys. One opened every lock, including the glove box. The other opened every lock but not the glove box. It is referred to as "shop key" here.

The manual even recommends to use the second key for valet parking and repairs, in order to protect the glove box contents.

Now I just remembered that Chance is due for a lock set replacement sometime next year...





Juan

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I made the decision for my glovebox lock to require a different key than the ignition key on my 77. I know it is a personal preference.

Hello,

Not necessarily a personal preference.

Maybe I am stating the obvious here.

70 Series in my neck of the woods came with two ignition keys. One opened every lock, including the glove box. The other opened every lock but not the glove box. It is referred to as "shop key" here.

The manual even recommends to use the second key for valet parking and repairs, in order to protect the glove box contents.

Now I just remembered that Chance is due for a lock set replacement sometime next year...

Juan

Too cool Juan. The set indeed comes with 3 keys and I just confirmed that 2 operate everything and 1 operates everything (including the gas tank caps) except for the glovebox. I never would have known that had you not mentioned it. Thanks.

 

[coldtaco]

Often when I am reading these threads and come across an issue that someone is having it prompts me to look into the spare parts situation that might help. Someone in the last couple of weeks was having an instrument cluster issue that they were trying to solve with wire and solder. That prompted me to confirm that my instrument cluster was NLA (which I knew) but I did find that the circuit plate was still available. Good insurance value for $34.

View attachment 2470642

that probably won't work on pre 1990 vehicles. or maybe only on gas models?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

that probably won't work on pre 1990 vehicles. or maybe only on gas models?

All I know is it matches the part number for my VIN.

 

[AirheadNut]

Looks like it’s just for the General Market FZJ/RJ models.

ToyoDIY.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Maybe I should have said "good insurance for me". I'm sure you can look up your specific instrument cluster and see if the circuit plate is still available.

 

[coldtaco]

Maybe I should have said "good insurance for me". I'm sure you can look up your specific instrument cluster and see if the circuit plate is still available.

I've been searching, supposedly they are available in Canada, I sent a email to a Toyota dealer that has it listed to see if they really have/can get one and how much for shipping to AK. Will see what they say.

 

[badusmaximus]

Often when I am reading these threads and come across an issue that someone is having it prompts me to look into the spare parts situation that might help. Someone in the last couple of weeks was having an instrument cluster issue that they were trying to solve with wire and solder. That prompted me to confirm that my instrument cluster was NLA (which I knew) but I did find that the circuit plate was still available. Good insurance value for $34.

View attachment 2470642

I think that might've been me! Correct assumption that the circuit was the problem. Lucky you the three plug version is still available.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

My temperature gauge has always read fairly low but I noticed recently that it quit working all together. Fuel gauge side works fine. Took me forever to find the temperature sender given it's rather tight location under the intake manifold just top left of the oil filter. I think I praised the locals a bit too soon as I now think that during their 20 minutes or so of trying to remove the oil filter they broke the connection on the sending unit. I ordered a new unit a week or so back once I noticed that the temperature gauge wasn't reading.

Yesterday I installed the new unit and the harness connector slides on but doesn't click into place and my temperature gauge still doesn't work. I'm thinking now that they damaged that connector as well. Hard to take a good photo of it and even harder to inspect it closely. These are photos of the new sending unit, old sending unit, and the harness connector respectively. Apologies again for the poor quality of the photos. Kinda taking them blind given the location. It does look like the harness can be unplugged from something that looks like a VSV and an adjacent engine knock sensor and dropped underneath to change the harness plug. At least I hope it can be accessed that way.

@Onur or @JuanJ (or anyone else for that matter), would really appreciate it if you can find the harness connector part number; that is definitely above my pay grade. VIN is FZJ75-0022870. GCC spec with a 1FZ-F engine. Thanks!

Edit: Should add that the sending unit part number I installed is 83420-16040. I couldn't compare the new and old side by side given that I wanted to change them quickly but by memory they looked the same. I checked this part number via two sources before ordering and there didn't seem to be any ambiguity.

 

[c2dfj45]

We have a local place that has the connectors if Toyota doesn't have them. My Troopy had the same connector issue. Not as convenient as finding the connector there though....hopefully you can figure it out.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

We have a local place that has the connectors if Toyota doesn't have them. My Troopy had the same connector issue. Not as convenient as finding the connector there though....hopefully you can figure it out.

Thanks Chris. I would be happy to go down to the local dealership but I haven't had much luck communicating with them thus far and I'm afraid this one would be a total lost cause. It's not stopping me from driving it as I know the cooling system is in good shape but still a bit disconcerting when your temperature gauge shows below "C". Maybe someone will have the part number and I can get it ordered locally (online) or from Dubai. Funny when I order locally online it's about 20% cheaper and they deliver it to my compound. Still not as cheap as Partsouq typically but sometimes it's a push.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I was traveling on a flight last night and reviewing some of the photos of this area and then did further research in the 70 and 80 forums. From the photo below you can see that there are multiple issues around this oil filter. The left most arrow is where I thought the temperature sender goes and it's where I put the new sender (photo shows old sender before it was removed. The circled instrument I think is part number 89428-60080, Switch, Temperature Detect 2. There are two of them on the engine. This is a 1FZ-F engine and apparently is quite different from the 1FZ-FE engine. On the -FE engine it appears that the sender is at the 1 o'clock position and there are one or two engine knock sensors in this area which are not on the -F engine. Whereas on the -F engine the sender is more like the 11 o'clock position and what I think is the switch is at the 1 o'clock position. Of course I could have those backwards but the parts diagrams seem to indicate otherwise.

The other arrow is an intake manifold bolt that is missing. I have ordered a bolt and the temperature switch that is clearly broken. Hopefully the switch looks different enough from the sensor that I can verify right or left placement.

All I need now is to verify the placement of the temperature sender vs the temperature switch and figure out the part numbers for the mating connectors. All that would be somewhat easier if I had a wiring diagram. I have looked at all the 1FZ-FE diagrams on the forums and some earlier 70 series diagrams but no joy so far. I looked through the resource forum, the sticky at the top of the 70 forum and searched both the 70 and 80 forums with no luck.

If anyone has an EWD for a circa '94 FZJ75 or knows where to purchase one, please let me know. I looked at some of the "pay to download" websites but haven't found one yet.