Cant seem to dial it in (1 Viewer)

[71cruiser71]

Hello,
So I am having troubles "dialing in" my 87 2f motor from a 60 series. (Its in a 72' 40series) it is currently my daily driver right now, as I dont have anything else now. I just started driving it about a week
It's kind of a long story, but to make it short... my dad thought it would be nice to have the 87' 2f motor rebuilt along with the carb by some random shop near where he lives (along with some other stuff not related to this specific issue)... the work was done about a year ago.

I had previously done the desmog. This is the first time I am using the recurved dizzy. Recurved by Jim.

My issue is I cant seem to get the motor running smooth with good throttle feedback with good idle speed or with decent gas mileage (relative to what I got before)

Fiddiling with it the best I could, I got it close but not perfect. The timing is set with the BB above the pointer in the middle of the window. I cant get the idle under ~ 850 rpm unless I mess with the timing but it runs decent where it is(unless I pull in the opposite direction of throttle linkage, and even with all linkage and springs removed). Also when listening to the exhaust it sounds like it has hiccups or brief moments of stalling or something.
Is there something wrong with my desmog set up or somewhere I can start? I have some pictures and video of my setup. If any additional info please let me know and I can provide. I know there are a lot of other threads about this kind of stuff but I still cant figure it out
Any ideas, suggestions or help is appreciated. Thanks guys

*how can I upload video?*

 

[71cruiser71]

Carb set up:


Timing:


Exhaust:
Exhaust

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Few more photos of the carb linkages from the firewall side too.

 

[mwebfj60]

Are you at altitude? The green arrow and circle are the High altitude ports. Right now you’re pulling extra air on the secondary side (green circle) and the primary side (green arrow) looks like it’s hooked to the choke opener, blue arrow. Normally the choke opener diaghragm is hooked to a manifold vacuum source via a BVSV so when the motor is warmed up, the choke opener is pulled and makes sure the choke plate is fully open.
If you’re not at altitude, just pull those lines off the carb HAC ports and cap them. You really don’t need the choke opener if your choke is working properly manually. Quite a few people remove them on a desmog...you can just cap it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What of the motor was rebuilt? New valves? Have you done a valve adjustment recently since it was rebuilt? Compression test? 850 is high but not terrible.

 

[OSS]

Put a vacuum gauge on it. It doesn't sound good. Also there's no vacuum hose that I could see connected to the distributor vacuum advancer. The inside pipe should get ported vacuum from a pipe on the inboard side of the carb. Near the idle mixture screw. Valves need to be adjusted too. Too loose.

For reference, here's a 2F in a FJ60 that idles and runs really well.

 

[g-man]

image of the advancer port on the inboard side of the carb. For reference this is the bottom vacuum port closest to the firewall and on the side of the carb closest too the valve cover. Yes you will have to take the dang air cleaner off to get at it.

The line closest to the dizzy is the one that goes to the advancer port

 

[71cruiser71]

I will get some more pictures here in a couple of hours.
I really dont know what was done as far as the motor work. How ever they cleaned the carb, destroyed the finish and has rusted since (as can see in pictures)
The dizzy has the furthest port connected to vac on carb not closest. I can switch that.
And I can cap high altitude, at some point I would like to get the high alt with the factory vacuum valves as i still have all the pieces i think.
I haven't readjusted the valves yet, i was gonna put some more miles on it first.
@OSS ya that sounds soooo smooth, my engine is so loud and it whines a lot when rev'd

 

[2mountainfish]

Once you have everything connected as it should be, check the adjustment on the idle up arm used to increase idle when the A/C is turned on. I have seen a few instances where there is no clearance on this adjustment and it causes high idle all the time. Just a thought. Take your time, read A LOT, and listen to the people on this forum. You will win in the end.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Once you have everything connected as it should be, check the adjustment on the idle up arm used to increase idle when the A/C is turned on. I have seen a few instances where there is no clearance on this adjustment and it causes high idle all the time. Just a thought. Take your time, read A LOT, and listen to the people on this forum. You will win in the end.

Appears he has he Idle Up capped off.

 

[71cruiser71]

Ok so... I switched the vac port on the dizzy so the one closer is connected to vacuum. (The pic is before)
I also capped the high alt and it has been a lot better! There isnt as much pressure from the exhaust and it isnt skipping nearly as much if at all! Once that was capped everything i adjusted on the carb made a much bigger impact and difference . I think that was a big part of it. Gonna play with it a little more tomorrow and will post an update. I think it can still get better though...
Thanks everyone I appreciate it.

 

[4Cruisers]

Keep at it, you'll have that 2F purring like a kitten.

 

[mwebfj60]

The outer port on the distributor is part of the HAC system. It gets vacuum from the 3 prong gas filter and is controlled by the HAC valve. When at altitude the HAC valve closes and the vacuum is applied to the outer port of the vacuum advance. it advances timing about 7 degrees. That’s the only time it is engaged in an OEM setup.
It is common for people to move the primary advance line to that one on a desmog and plug the primary port.
If you can run ported vac off the carb to primary and it runs good go with that and cap the outer port on the distributor until you get your HAC system installed.

 

[2mountainfish]

Appears he has he Idle Up capped off.

Yeh I saw that, but if it is not adjusted right it can still push against the linkage even without vacuum. There is a spring loaded screw that can be turned to get the right gap.