Cant keep speed on hills.

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To all readers...

i have an 82 fj40 with the stock 370's and 33's on the wheels. no matter what kind of driving i'm doing it seems to die on hills so bad, if i'm on the higheay and doing 60-65 and i come to a hill it will die out to almost 50 mph. i thought if i went to 410 it would solve the problem and put 410's in but had to remove them b/c they knocked with every tire retation. if anyone had an suggestions for keeping momentome please help...my timing and valves need to be adjusted, could that be it...should i drop down in tire size.
 
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The 4.10 rears would have been my answer as well. The knocking sounds strange to me. Granted we all know a tune up simply can't hurt and, if nothing else, you might get another 1 mpg out of it.

If anyone happens to be interested I'm looking to get a set of 3.70's in place of my 4.10's and will do a swap. I do more road travel than off roading and don't need the torque. So Cruiserhead drop me a line if you think you'd like to swap.
 
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how steep of a hill?
hearing any sputtering or anything, could it be a carb issue, or fuel line related. I dont know just guessing. Im in wyoming and can drive my 40 with a 2f 60-65 steady up all the hills on the highway that my 80 loses power on. its a 71 stock AFIK (other than the 2F) with 31x10.50's
wouldnt think 2 inches would make that big a difference. (on the tires that is) ;)
 
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in my 82 fj40 I run a bone stock 2f, stock 3.70 gears, 33x9.5 tires I havn't found a hill that will slow it down yet, I can actaully accerate from 65mph to 70+. If I hit the same hill in my fj60(2f, 4.10's,33x10's) it will slow it down, besides the 60 being a bit heavier my guess is the carb needs some work, I don't think the secondiary is kicking in on the 60.
 
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landpimp, what yous ay gives me hope. me and a buddy installed the 410's but like i said there was a loud knocking noise in them, we couldnt seem to fix it and i couldnt afford to have it off the road any longer so we through the 370's back in so i could be on the road. i have recently put two new fuel filters and a fuel pump in so that rules that out, i have a brand new weber 32/36 on it, it has the stock acc pedal on, the mechanic said i should go with a cable pedal and will help with power. he said the linkage is worn out. i just spent alot of money $ fixing an exhaust leak on it, putting new heat riser plate on it and having useless vacuum lines plugged, the guy also knows alot about webers on cruisers and he tuned it. it does have a real bad tick to it, i'm guessing thats the valves needing tuning. also i have a vacuum retard dist on it, someone told me a vacuum advance would help with power. i'm not looking for a racer but i would like to be able to keep a steady 65, thats all i want and i know this thing is capable, note- i had this problem even with the stock carb. thanks
 
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[quote author=Cruiserhead05 link=board=1;threadid=5049;start=msg39063#msg39063 date=1063054076]
landpimp, what yous ay gives me hope. me and a buddy installed the 410's but like i said there was a loud knocking noise in them, we couldnt seem to fix it and i couldnt afford to have it off the road any longer so we through the 370's back in so i could be on the road. i have recently put two new fuel filters and a fuel pump in so that rules that out, i have a brand new weber 32/36 on it, it has the stock acc pedal on, the mechanic said i should go with a cable pedal and will help with power. he said the linkage is worn out. i just spent alot of money $ fixing an exhaust leak on it, putting new heat riser plate on it and having useless vacuum lines plugged, the guy also knows alot about webers on cruisers and he tuned it. it does have a real bad tick to it, i'm guessing thats the valves needing tuning. also i have a vacuum retard dist on it, someone told me a vacuum advance would help with power. i'm not looking for a racer but i would like to be able to keep a steady 65, thats all i want and i know this thing is capable, note- i had this problem even with the stock carb. thanks
[/quote]


I don't know much about carbs but the weber should be fine(most perfer a good stock rebuilt Aisin however)

Pretty sure a vacum retard dizzy is really hurting you or at least it makes sense that it would, its droping the timing when you need it the most. I would go with a non us(same as a early to 66-67 stock fj40 dizzy) the stock 82 dizzy is dual advance, one is high altitude(so it doesn't come into play) so if your is retard than it's been changed(why do PO's do this stuff I'll never know!) Hmmm, if your dizzy is retard then does that mean it has points? sounds to me like a 69-75 dizzy.....weird!

the pedal you would use(if you want to change) would be a stock 71-73 I think cable set up. Pesonaly if you nave a solid 82 fj40 I wouldnt be hackin up the firewall to make it fit(I think it need some hackin) just replace the worn linkage.

FWIW both my 82 fj40's all have the emmision stuff on them, the mustard 40 is actaully faster than the green 82......why I have no idea, they both run the same tires(same miles, same tune up specs). The mustard 40 will put your headback in to the seat when in 3rd doing 40 and you hit the gas.......fastest damn stock 40 I have ever been in

Today I was in 4th gear on the freeway/hill and had droped down to 40mph, I just gave it some gas and off it went to 60+ on the hill. I wish/want my fj60 to do that

The ticking is prolly the valves needing adjustment, too loose isn't as bad as too tight however.

John H
 
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land pimp, thanks. i dont know for sure if the dizzy is vacuum retard, i was told that it was. i'm not 100% sure what it is. but i do know a vacuum advance would help with power. most of my emissions is not even hooked up for what its worth. my only problem now is, i have plenty of things to change to help it out but i need to money. weber wants 90 bucks for a cable for my carb. i dont know how much for a tight toyota linkage. also dist. cost a crap load. how much will i pay for a dist for my setup with the weber and stuff. could you recommend any dist. for me? and where i can get a good price on one. i guess what i'm saying is, i'm 17 work apart time job and $$$ is a big concern.... thanks.
 
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[quote author=Cruiserhead05 link=board=1;threadid=5049;start=msg39199#msg39199 date=1063074632]
land pimp, thanks. i dont know for sure if the dizzy is vacuum retard, i was told that it was. i'm not 100% sure what it is. but i do know a vacuum advance would help with power. most of my emissions is not even hooked up for what its worth. my only problem now is, i have plenty of things to change to help it out but i need to money. weber wants 90 bucks for a cable for my carb. i dont know how much for a tight toyota linkage. also dist. cost a crap load. how much will i pay for a dist for my setup with the weber and stuff. could you recommend any dist. for me? and where i can get a good price on one. i guess what i'm saying is, i'm 17 work apart time job and $$$ is a big concern.... thanks.
[/quote]

To see if its retard or advance, take the hose(or hoses) that goes from the dizzy to the carb and suck on it, if it revs higher is advance if it revs lower it retard. start with that to see what you have(then you can go from there), also pop the cap and dust cover off the dizzy and see it it's points, 82 should be fully electonic and no points....

I'm not sure about the pedal, I have never had a weber(but I have 3 used ones in a box) I think if you can find a used 71-3 fj40 pedal assembly this is the same(or better) as the Weber pedal

Check out the dizzy to see what you have. Also might just need a good tune up, especaily if it has points....

FWIW I don't really know alot about dizzies and carbs.....but have learned a bit and read alot ;)

I hear ya about money, I dreamed of having a Cruiser sense I was 13 years old......couldn't really afford one till I was 29.......but have sense made up for all the years without :D

John H
 
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[quote author=Landpimp link=board=1;threadid=5049;start=msg39188#msg39188 date=1063073574]The mustard 40 will put your headback in to the seat when in 3rd doing 40 and you hit the gas.......fastest damn stock 40 I have ever been inJohn H
[/quote]
Then you haven't been in DD113's stock '72. Frickin ridiculous.. :eek:
And I thought my F was running pretty well. ??? :mad: :flipoff2: :D
 
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Sounds to me that you do not have the linkage correct. You may not be getting full use of the 2nd barrell. When the pedal is 100% down (acc position) the 2nd barrell should be open also. You can see how the linkage will work. The rod linkage will work fine on a 38MM but you need the webber adaptor to the linkage and the spring with correct tension. Rod linkage does wear out but the pedal/cable set up is not that much better. Especially for the price! Valves should be adjusted with any carb changeover. The dist you have should have 2 vac ports on it. The outer most is a vac retard for the hi altitude, the inner most is a vac advance. You should only use the inner one, no "T" in the vac line. (I am still working on this theory using empiracle evidence, any comments welcomed) You can check the dwell and it should be in the 40' ish range. That can also be adjusted by moving the spark generator plate and adjusting the gap as you would with points. The movement is not as responsive as it is with points. Set the timing with the BB at the bottom of the window. Hook a vac gauge up and mess with the rich/lean screws. Make sure both are equal. Let us know what happens
 
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David are you sure the 82 is retard for altitude? neither of mine are. According to Jim C, this is correct
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/dist.html

John H


[quote author=dd113 link=board=1;threadid=5049;start=msg39231#msg39231 date=1063078206]
Sounds to me that you do not have the linkage correct. You may not be getting full use of the 2nd barrell. When the pedal is 100% down (acc position) the 2nd barrell should be open also. You can see how the linkage will work. The rod linkage will work fine on a 38MM but you need the webber adaptor to the linkage and the spring with correct tension. Rod linkage does wear out but the pedal/cable set up is not that much better. Especially for the price! Valves should be adjusted with any carb changeover. The dist you have should have 2 vac ports on it. The outer most is a vac retard for the hi altitude, the inner most is a vac advance. You should only use the inner one, no "T" in the vac line. (I am still working on this theory using empiracle evidence, any comments welcomed) You can check the dwell and it should be in the 40' ish range. That can also be adjusted by moving the spark generator plate and adjusting the gap as you would with points. The movement is not as responsive as it is with points. Set the timing with the BB at the bottom of the window. Hook a vac gauge up and mess with the rich/lean screws. Make sure both are equal. Let us know what happens
[/quote]
 
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Hey John, not sure at all especially that I was proven wrong by Jim C! I was just messing with a 78 with the back and forth retard/advance so I guess i had 78 on the brain! Hey, still got those stock shocks? Still want them
 
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[quote author=dd113 link=board=1;threadid=5049;start=msg39623#msg39623 date=1063160560]
Hey John, not sure at all especially that I was proven wrong by Jim C! I was just messing with a 78 with the back and forth retard/advance so I guess i had 78 on the brain! Hey, still got those stock shocks? Still want them
[/quote]

Yep I got em, hit me off line and we can figure something out.
jholmaas@hotmail.com
 

jm

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Maybe it's the 32/36... I thought Weber recommended that only for the F and they recommended the 38 for the 2F.

jm
 

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