can't get my engine back in

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by markfritsch, Feb 16, 2009.

  1. markfritsch

    markfritsch

    Messages:
    99
    Media:
    3
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2008
    Location:
    escondido california
    i can't get my motor to go the last inch and a half. the rear motor mount is broken on the drivers side.figured
    i'd replace that after the motor is back in, to stabilize the trans. I'm thinking i'll try removing the front motor mounts to give me more wiggle room. any tricks or input about getting it the rest of the way in ?i.m so close. mark:cheers:
     
  2. agent orange

    agent orange

    Messages:
    2,227
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2005
    Location:
    New Kent, VA
    The input shaft on the transmission might not be engaging the pilot bearing, that would keep it from seating fully. You need to make sure the crank centerline and the input shaft are aligned.
     
  3. Pighead

    Pighead Stop calling it an FJ

    Messages:
    7,592
    Likes Received:
    646
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2004
    Location:
    Denverish
    Ah, that last angry inch again...BTDT. I got some real long bolts, same thread as the stockers, and used those to pull the tranny to the block...also turn the crank a little, adjust angles a little, get more jacks, lie down on your back and try the leg-press...
    This is about the hardest thing to do on a 'Cruiser, mating the engine & tranny.
    EVERYBODY has trouble here, it NEVER goes smoothly. Just one of those things...
     
  4. fj hunter

    fj hunter

    Messages:
    482
    Media:
    2
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2009
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    this is not supposed to be funny...cuttinf torch. i'v done 5 f engines, and 6 crank bearing pulls, even though not on the scale of your rig (assume pic fj60), and i have found several objects that just get in the way no matter what, I find a way to ELIMINATE them, I wouldnt call my vehicle looks stock either. when i need hole, it gets cut. also, have you tried lifting the body after you have the engine in place, this changes the angle enough at times to let the engine through, best part is the lower weight in the body with the engine supported by lift. I also use chains only on the moters, and then mechanical on teh frames/body. get er done.:cheers:
     
  5. mwdubs

    mwdubs

    Messages:
    171
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2007
    Location:
    Greensboro NC
    something that has always helped me is to find some long metric bolts or threaded rod to go into the bellhousing/engine block to help guide the engine or clutch on the input shaft of the trans. A rachet strap might come in handy to pull the engine to the trans. Take the motor mounts off for sure, definatly need the extra room. Leave them on and you could screw up the threads. ask me how i know. make sure the angle of the trans matches the engines, otherwise you'll be fighting it for eternity. I am assuming you lined the clutch up with something (plastic tool or spare input shaft) before tightening the pressure plate bolts, this too would hold the engine up. good luck:beer:
     
  6. 3_puppies

    3_puppies SILVER Star

    Messages:
    10,931
    Likes Received:
    1,458
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2002
    Location:
    Helena MT
    just be careful when pulling the trans to bellhousing with bolts, search for "heartworms" thread about this


    as others have said, angles, change them abit and rotate.

    also helps, if it's not going and your getting frustrated, STEP AWAY, have lunch, a soda, come back to it with a new aproach and she'll slip right together.
    That is as long as your sure the pilot bearing fits on the input shaft of the trans?? maybe a little polish on the shaft to help.
     
  7. markfritsch

    markfritsch

    Messages:
    99
    Media:
    3
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2008
    Location:
    escondido california
    it rained all day today.tomorrow i'm thinking i'll get those two front mounts out of the way and i'll getthe angle i need to get into the pilot bearing.
     
  8. klinetime574

    klinetime574 Positive Vibes SILVER Star

    Messages:
    5,372
    Likes Received:
    591
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Are you using a load leveler?

    Is front end disassembled? The long piece that holds the headlight surrounds and that the radiator bolts to needs to come off. I had trouble getting the engine in with that removed.
     
  9. markfritsch

    markfritsch

    Messages:
    99
    Media:
    3
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2008
    Location:
    escondido california
    yes load levelor and the radiators out i got it all the way in except the last couple inches thanks mark
     
  10. klinetime574

    klinetime574 Positive Vibes SILVER Star

    Messages:
    5,372
    Likes Received:
    591
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    Alright man. Just keep working on it. You'll get it!
     
  11. IndianDoc

    IndianDoc Crazy old Biker

    Messages:
    2,106
    Media:
    55
    Albums:
    3
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Location:
    Sumter SC
    2X on careful but I have done it that way and not had problems, however when you hear that loud crack and look at a new bellhousing etc. then you know it was not the right thing to do. Wiggle more than turn the bolts :p
     
  12. jfnall

    jfnall

    Messages:
    1,025
    Likes Received:
    243
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2007
    Location:
    Nixa, MO
    after things were visually in line with the trans shaft, slowly turn the crank pulley so the splines line up. i used a rock bar for leverage on the front pushing while another guy did the wiggling on the back.

    this was by far THE toughest part of the rebuild. i don't see how it is possible to do by yourself. you should have some help. good luck.
     
  13. lehiguy

    lehiguy

    Messages:
    3,792
    Likes Received:
    25
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2008
    Location:
    Lehi, Porter Rockwell's home town
    It helps immensely to get under the rig and take a good look at the angles of the bellhousing and the trans. Any variance will bind it up. Get a jack under the rear of the T-case to help manipulate that angle. Once the two planes are parallel, you will get it in without too much fuss. Do be carefull with the bolts, it is possible to break the ears off the trans or crack the bellhousing although they are cast iron and pretty sturdy.
     
  14. D'Animal

    D'Animal Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers Moderator

    Messages:
    21,199
    Media:
    180
    Albums:
    8
    Likes Received:
    520
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    Location:
    Central California
    It has been said many times in this thread.

    Remove your front engine mounts.


    It will make it way easier.
     
  15. markfritsch

    markfritsch

    Messages:
    99
    Media:
    3
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2008
    Location:
    escondido california
    I took a few days off from the motor.i went at it this morning fine tuned it and she slipped right in.no help from anyone and me with a broken foot. I WIN!! won't be long till we hear the rebuild purring. Mark
     
  16. Drofen

    Drofen

    Messages:
    233
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2009
    Location:
    Mansfield TX
    I can't believe you openly mocked the cruiser gods like this!:whoops:

    You need to pour out one case of 10w30 as a libation, and offer up a set of unbroken birfs to make atonement!!:cheers:
     
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.