Can't Get Doors to Shut and Latch After New Weatherstripping/Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Green Bean

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I rebuilt our early (1970) doors after they were painted. New OEM weatherstripping was installed and new door latch mechanisms. Now, I can't get the doors to close far enough to engage the latch. It feels like the weatherstripping is too large to allow the door to close all the way. Has anyone encountered similar issues? I sure would appreciate any and all suggestions on how to get the doors to latch closed.
Thanks again for all of the help.
 
If you have any spare lengths of the weatherstripping, try experimenting with things that might soften and flatten it. I would start with brake fluid and maybe some kind of weight on it to see if you can do a controlled squeeze. If it shows promise have at it on your doors, just keep the brake fluid off the paint. Maybe with some kind of temporary protective foil. I don't know - just brain storming. I still have to slam my doors after new weatherstripping 8 yrs ago. I thought it was kind of bad with the hardtop, but then with my soft top I found it to be worse especially at the B pillar. I am following this post because all this slamming could cause micro fractures at the window channel where the upper door inserts into the lower door.
 
Attached are some photos of both the passenger and driver's doors. If anyone sees something that I've done wrong, please let me know.
Thanks.

Driver's Door.1.jpg


Driver's Door.jpg


Passenger Door.1.jpg


Passenger Door.jpg
 
Mark

When I did my doors on the SWB resto 28 years ago I had the same problem. It’s always been the same problem. Fortunately for me, I’m a bit of a packrat, and my lo-tech, short term solution was to use my most worn out used striker plates (that were grooved in about an 1/8”) until the weatherstripping finally compressed enough to allow installation of a pair of new strikers.
 
Mark

When I did my doors on the SWB resto 28 years ago I had the same problem. It’s always been the same problem. Fortunately for me, I’m a bit of a packrat, and my lo-tech, short term solution was to use my most worn out used striker plates (that were grooved in about an 1/8”) until the weatherstripping finally compressed enough to allow installation of a pair of new strikers.
Okay. The "S" shaped wrench from Amazon didn't work out for loosening the 12mm nut for the upper left driver's side hinge bolt. There is some sort of obstruction that won't allow a box-end wrench to fit. So, I have reluctantly abandoned, for now, the loosening of the hinges. My alternative Plan "B" was to loosen the latch assembly and insert some 1/8" adhesive backed neoprene between the latch assembly and the door panel. I had to use slightly longer screws to loosely secure. Anyway, I was able to get the door to latch. Hopefully, the weatherstripping will compress enough where I can go back and remove the temporary neoprene foam inserts.
Thanks everyone for all of the help on this.
Driver's Door Latched.jpg
 
My question is where are you buying new OEM weatherstripping for these doors? I thought this was discontinued? Please share your source!
 
My question is where are you buying new OEM weatherstripping for these doors? I thought this was discontinued? Please share your source!
Call Mark Algazy at Mark's Off Road.
Burbank, CA
(818) 953-9230
He will get you what you need. Do not email, fax or try and communicate through osmosis. You must do it the old fashioned way; by calling him.
 
My question is where are you buying new OEM weatherstripping for these doors? I thought this was discontinued? Please share your source!

Looks like it should be available from Mark or any dealer.
 
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I’m about to do the weatherstripping on my 83 FJ45 so I’m quite interested to also to hear some of the resident experts weigh in. My doors are a bit different but just curious if some of your problem is in the circled areas? Looks like it maybe should follow the contour of the raised portion of the door closer? Hard to tell from the photos so take that comment with a grain of salt. Also curious why you cut the weatherstripping behind the latch? I thought it was supposed to be contiguous there? Again, my latch is different so that could be the difference. Good luck with it though. I can feel your frustration.

8B73306F-17A8-428E-A6CE-E53CCDCDF534.jpeg
 
I’m about to do the weatherstripping on my 83 FJ45 so I’m quite interested to also to hear some of the resident experts weigh in. My doors are a bit different but just curious if some of your problem is in the circled areas? Looks like it maybe should follow the contour of the raised portion of the door closer? Hard to tell from the photos so take that comment with a grain of salt. Also curious why you cut the weatherstripping behind the latch? I thought it was supposed to be contiguous there? Again, my latch is different so that could be the difference. Good luck with it though. I can feel your frustration.

View attachment 2756803
 
Points all well taken. There could be any number of things that I did which are not quite right, so I very much appreciate folks pointing them out to me. Unfortunately, it is an arduous learning process. For now, however, both of the the doors close and latch. The driver's side is a bit of a bear to close but I'm hopeful that new the weatherstripping gives up the fight, recognizes defeat, and that the door will begin to close easier.
Thanks.
 
Mark

When I did my doors on the SWB resto 28 years ago I had the same problem. It’s always been the same problem. Fortunately for me, I’m a bit of a packrat, and my lo-tech, short term solution was to use my most worn out used striker plates (that were grooved in about an 1/8”) until the weatherstripping finally compressed enough to allow installation of a pair of new strikers.

This seems like a perfect solution. Got any good ones for the new style latch like the one in my 77? My current plan is two fold... 1) try the OEM latch so I can rule that out and then remove the door and try to remove the hinges or work them free to an extent so I can orient them further out to compensate for the new thicker weather stripping.
 

Looks like it should be available from Mark or any dealer.
the weather striping for the earlier doors has long been NLA from toyota.
 
I am proud to own a Toyota Land Cruiser. I will never reveal to outsiders what a complete fail the body side upper door hinge bolts are. This is the worst design I have ever encountered.
 
the weather striping for the earlier doors has long been NLA from toyota.
I'm sure you are correct but why is it showing available? Am I using the wrong part number? Even McGeorge Toyota is showing them available. Just curious more than anything.

 
@
I'm sure you are correct but why is it showing available? Am I using the wrong part number? Even McGeorge Toyota is showing them available. Just curious more than anything.

@Greenbean

Why are you asking the person who declared them NLA?

Call the dealer and ask for verification!
 
@

@Greenbean

Why are you asking the person who declared them NLA?

Call the dealer and ask for verification!
Not sure to whom you are directing this question? @cyrilward is the one who asked where to get them. I don't need them; was just trying to be helpful.
 
Technically, cyrilward is not wrong. There was a second-gen weatherstripping for 73-74 that was wider and flatter. Really a big design improvement, as it sealed to the windshield better than the earlier one. But the extra costs for the limited assembly line production date didn’t justify continuing making them. IIRC,

They went obsolete shortly after I opened my shop in 1990. Since then, talk of them has died off to the point nobody even remembers them, and everyone just ASSUMES that the earlier weatherstrip is the ONLY weatherstrip…except Toyota, which, if asked for a 73-74 weatherstripping will tell you they are NLA.

Your history lesson for the week, brought to you by the owner of Mark’s Off Road, the best kept secret in the world of FJ40s!😊
 
I am proud to own a Toyota Land Cruiser. I will never reveal to outsiders what a complete fail the body side upper door hinge bolts are. This is the worst design I have ever encountered.

They really are not a design failure. I do believe they require patience , but these were not to be removed or loosened often. I replaced my door weather-strip when the vehicle was 30 years old. First time they needed adjusting. If one has patience and the correct tool , it can be done as I have done it. I am restoring a 1965 and removed all hinges for powder coat. Maybe since I have seats out there is more room to get comfortable and get my arm and tools in there.
 
I do own a 1974, after looking at marks page it still indicates 72-74 driver is NLA (153-50DL) and passenger available for $102 (153-50DR). Sounds like my only option is the older smaller style.
 

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