I can’t get my 60 to ride straight on the highway. I’ve rebuilt knuckles, new tie rod ends and drag links, new springs and shocks. I’m about to buy a new box but wanted to ask you guys for any tips. She fine around town. The wheel does not return to center after a turn and I have to many ring her back to center every time. I tightened the adjuster and the in turn tightened the action but now it is even harder to move the wheel while the same action on the highway persists. The best way to describe it is that it Looks like a drunk person is driving. There is a constant weaving to correct steering and it requires intense concentration and two hands on the wheel to keep her between the lines. Also I had an alignment done by a shop and gave her an 1/8 tie in. Any input would be appreciated....oh and the ps pump pullyvseems to have a slight wobble but inspection with belt off sounds good and it appears to be pumping well.
Can’t fix steering (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter seanolsen
- Start date
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What kind of suspension, lift and tires?
Don't tighten the adjuster to where it's harder to move the wheel. Undo that
Don't tighten the adjuster to where it's harder to move the wheel. Undo that
Loose steering is one thing, pulling to one side is another. Which is it?
- Old tires won't track well.
- Wide tires won't track as well
- If one spring pack on an axle is lower than the other, the steering will suffer.
- Worn spring bushings will cause sloppy steering.
- If the frame is bent, the steering will suffer.
- If the steering gearbox is worn, (and it definitely is) the steering will suffer.
- If the steering shaft U-joints are worn and have play, the steering will suffer.
- If an aftermarket steering stabilizer is installed, the steering will suffer and the steering wheel won't want to return to center after a turn.
- If there's just a little bit of everything above, they'll all compound the problem and turn the cruiser into a drunken sailor wandering down the road.
If you have a lift without caster correction it will wander. From the sounds of it this is not the issue?
Show us some pictures of your front suspension.
Show us some pictures of your front suspension.
Re-torque u bolts. Do an alignment, then evaluate from there. Drag link may be shot. Too many variables here.
Many people run caster shims on these lifted rigs aiming for 2-3* positive caster. This provides a more positive (modern) feel at the expense of stearing ease and tire wear.
Many people run caster shims on these lifted rigs aiming for 2-3* positive caster. This provides a more positive (modern) feel at the expense of stearing ease and tire wear.
Remove the steering stabilizer for a test and behold how quickly the steering wheel returns to center after a turn. Aftermarket steering stabilizers have too much damping. The original Toyota steering stabilizer is very easy to push in and out.
Caster shims. My .02.
1/8" of Toe in won't affect your steering. Your caster is what causes your steering to return to center on its own. If you have 0 caster angle or even negative caster angle the steering will be unstable and you will have no self centering effect. Shopping cart wheels are a good example of negative caster....they are unstable as all hell when they roll.
When you have a positive caster angle and you turn the steering wheel away from center you are literally raising the front of the car up in the air. When you let off the wheel the car wants to come back down and in doing so it forces the wheels back to a stable position which happens to be centered. With negative caster the center point in the steering is literally the least stable point and the car wants to fall down further...the stable point in this situation is with the steering wheel at max turn left or right....essentially to drive the vehicle in a straight line is like balancing on a beam
When you have a positive caster angle and you turn the steering wheel away from center you are literally raising the front of the car up in the air. When you let off the wheel the car wants to come back down and in doing so it forces the wheels back to a stable position which happens to be centered. With negative caster the center point in the steering is literally the least stable point and the car wants to fall down further...the stable point in this situation is with the steering wheel at max turn left or right....essentially to drive the vehicle in a straight line is like balancing on a beam
no. Unless your steering box has frozen bearings and is hard to turn. If it’s a caster issue or an alignment issue an alignment shop should really be the one to fix it.
Dr. John
SILVER Star
Need more basic info. If your steering box adjustment is still tightened down (as you described), how much free play do you have in the steering wheel...left to right before meeting any resistance. If it's more than an inch , you likely have worn u-joints in the steering shaft. Now...get the steering box adjustment screw set properly. (UPDATE) STEERING BOX ADJUSTMENT, Suggestions . An overtightened adjuster can quickly damage the box internals. This should quickly eliminate 2 of your possibilities.
Double check your steering box is securely bolted to your chassis rail.. mine wasnt.
- Thread starter
- #15
Mine wasn’t either! I tightened it up but I also thought that may have done some damage if it Im was like that for a while.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
I have had two wandering issues during my ownership
1st - when the shop that was installing my springs put them on backwards. Driving on the freeway was wander left, wander right and drove me crazy. I pulled the leaf springs and put them in properly and that wandering disappeared. Double check since you just put in new springs.
2nd time - I over tightened my steering box while trying to adjust the free play. When over tightened, it wandered left and right but so aggressively that I had to hold on with two hands. My steering box was worn out. I could either have excessive free play or dangerous wandering. I replaced it.
1st - when the shop that was installing my springs put them on backwards. Driving on the freeway was wander left, wander right and drove me crazy. I pulled the leaf springs and put them in properly and that wandering disappeared. Double check since you just put in new springs.
2nd time - I over tightened my steering box while trying to adjust the free play. When over tightened, it wandered left and right but so aggressively that I had to hold on with two hands. My steering box was worn out. I could either have excessive free play or dangerous wandering. I replaced it.
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c2dfj45
Supporting Vendor
If you've gone thru all the stuff listed and your alignment specs are right, call Redhead Steering and get yourself a rebuilt box from them. You will be shocked at how much it improves the drivability. Night and day. Some of the best money you can spend on that truck. We put them in all our trucks when we go thru the steering....game changer.
We've got old trucks...lots of miles....the boxes are worn out. They need refreshing. Rebuild the power steering pump, do some lines...good to go for a long time.
Redhead has been PHENOMENAL. Couldn't be easier to work with and they usually keep 60 boxes on the shelf.....they'll do a core swap. Zero down time.
We've got old trucks...lots of miles....the boxes are worn out. They need refreshing. Rebuild the power steering pump, do some lines...good to go for a long time.
Redhead has been PHENOMENAL. Couldn't be easier to work with and they usually keep 60 boxes on the shelf.....they'll do a core swap. Zero down time.
Dr. John
SILVER Star
If you need to replace the box, consider replacing it with one from an 80 series. Much beefier. It will bolt right in. You'll have to keep the 60 Pitman arm. Did mine last week.
- Thread starter
- #19
Did u need to replace the pump too? Does the 80 box bolt I to the early model fj60s?
No and no. The early FJ60s with the square pattern steering box bolting will not accept an 80 series box.
