Yes the 77 build seems more involved! but sweet truck as well and the sheet metal work you're doing looks good. How do you find the 1kz power wise for daily?
Builds Canada - 1999 KZJ90 Land Cruiser "build" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JDM Journeys
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JDM Journeys
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As a daily, it's great. Mine's a shorty manual of course, so very nimble, good on fuel, and the boost allows it to keep up with modern traffic easily, as well as plenty of power for the highway. I've never driven an auto 1kz so I can't compare, but torque converter losses would definitely take some of the zippiness away.
Compared to the HZJ77, the KZJ90 feels a lot more modern. This is both a good and bad thing, I guess? Some days you just want to get in and drive to work, without thinking about how you get there. Other days you want to be present, planning your shifts, watching your egt's, and actively piloting your vintage machine. Chances are you can figure out which is which?
JDM Journeys
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Got some new winters yesterday. Uniroyals, and pretty cheap, but lots of siped tread so I'm looking forward to seeing how they perform.
Also, the size is interesting... 245/75R16… which makes it exactly the same height as the stock 265/70 only narrower, which should be better on-road in snow.
Strangely, no snow to speak of here yet.
Oh, rolled up 150k kms yesterday. Maybe broke in now?
Also, the size is interesting... 245/75R16… which makes it exactly the same height as the stock 265/70 only narrower, which should be better on-road in snow.
Strangely, no snow to speak of here yet.
Oh, rolled up 150k kms yesterday. Maybe broke in now?
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Hi Buddy,
The links you shared were really helpful. Appreciate it. I own a 2003 prado 90 3.4 v6 here in Abudhabi. Wonderful vehicle!!. Recently it has developed an issue with auto gear shifter. THe gear shifter is loose, I mean when shifting from P to N to R, to D, it is just loose as if some bushings have gone bad. Is the bushings the problem? Any idea?
Regards.
JDM Journeys
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Better to start a new thread if you want maximum exposure.
by any chance does your plate start with CLW? friend just sent me a photo of one running around few days ago.
JDM Journeys
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Mine is CFG.
Hi, @JDM Journeys! First off, thank you for putting this thread together... even though doing a build thread can feel like talking to yourself, they're a huge help to folks like me putting their plans together.
A couple of questions for you:
1. Is your ARB bumper the ARB 3921130 DELUXE SAHARA FRONT BUMPER WITH BAR? Are you happy with it? I'm trying to pick a bumper and would love your feedback.
2. What size are your BFGs? I think I'm going to end up with about the same level of lift (~1.5") and like the way yours looks. Any issues with rubbing or concerns about the sizing?
Thank you!
A couple of questions for you:
1. Is your ARB bumper the ARB 3921130 DELUXE SAHARA FRONT BUMPER WITH BAR? Are you happy with it? I'm trying to pick a bumper and would love your feedback.
2. What size are your BFGs? I think I'm going to end up with about the same level of lift (~1.5") and like the way yours looks. Any issues with rubbing or concerns about the sizing?
Thank you!
JDM Journeys
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Thanks for the feedback @apexwerks
Bumper is indeed the ARB Sahara. I really like it. Low pro enough that it suits the lines, bit still HD enough to take an animal strike without too much damage, I'd imagine.
Tires... Mine are 275 70 17s on 17x9s. Not my first choice for sure, but they came with the truck. Rim is too wide. Tire is too wide. With an inch or so of lift and some under clearancing, they do fit, but honestly.. too many compromises.
I think a 265 75 16 is a good all rounder, and doesn't impact fuel econ and acceleration as much.
I've actually swapped to winters at this point and my 245 75 16s make this much more drivable. The 17s are now bolted up to my 70 series, linked in my sig. Once winter is over, I'm going to look for some 265s 75s I think? We'll see.
On winter diesel, cold temps, and 245 75 16s, I'm consistently returning 10.3L/100kms on my long commute. Not too bad...
Bumper is indeed the ARB Sahara. I really like it. Low pro enough that it suits the lines, bit still HD enough to take an animal strike without too much damage, I'd imagine.
Tires... Mine are 275 70 17s on 17x9s. Not my first choice for sure, but they came with the truck. Rim is too wide. Tire is too wide. With an inch or so of lift and some under clearancing, they do fit, but honestly.. too many compromises.
I think a 265 75 16 is a good all rounder, and doesn't impact fuel econ and acceleration as much.
I've actually swapped to winters at this point and my 245 75 16s make this much more drivable. The 17s are now bolted up to my 70 series, linked in my sig. Once winter is over, I'm going to look for some 265s 75s I think? We'll see.
On winter diesel, cold temps, and 245 75 16s, I'm consistently returning 10.3L/100kms on my long commute. Not too bad...
Thank you! That was exactly what I needed. I'll probably take your advice on the 265/75R16... the goal is to build something capable but not impractical. Mine should ship out this coming week, and then we just wait and try not to order a million dollars of parts.
JDM Journeys
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Some feedback on glowplugs...
If you've been following this thread since I started it, you'll have read that I broke one of my rules and used aftermarket glowplugs. At first when winter came this year I was a little underwhelmed. They didn't seem to have the same heat as my OEM's did (when I first got the truck). But I soon realized that they needed a slightly longer glow period, esp in the cold.
Here's how I start it: after the glow plug light goes off, (when the temps are in the minus double digits and I'm not plugged in) I count the flashing seatbelt light for a five count, then crank. Even after the light goes out, the busbar is still pumping voltage into those bad boys -> longer glow = more heat = smoother starts.
If you've been following this thread since I started it, you'll have read that I broke one of my rules and used aftermarket glowplugs. At first when winter came this year I was a little underwhelmed. They didn't seem to have the same heat as my OEM's did (when I first got the truck). But I soon realized that they needed a slightly longer glow period, esp in the cold.
Here's how I start it: after the glow plug light goes off, (when the temps are in the minus double digits and I'm not plugged in) I count the flashing seatbelt light for a five count, then crank. Even after the light goes out, the busbar is still pumping voltage into those bad boys -> longer glow = more heat = smoother starts.
JDM Journeys
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Yesterday was a miserable day for the poor Prado. It suffered the indignity of parking outside most of this winter (70 series and 100 series are in the garage), and yesterday we got another arctic blast, with the temp dropping to -30*C. When I went out to start her up she outright refused to let me in. Doorlocks were frozen. And even the key fob refused to work. LOL! I finally manage to jimmy the lock enough to open, and then had to make three attempts to start her up. No, I hadn't plugged in. Wasn't expecting the sudden drop in temps. Argg.
Anyways, she finally started, I was eventually able to let the clutch out, and we made our way to work. So last night I lubed the door locks with graphite lube, and then got to work on the key. It's the OEM two button toyota fob/key combo. The battery was a CR1216 which I didn't have on hand, but I did have a CR1220, also 3V, so I gave it a try. It worked perfectly, even from 2 feet away! LOL. So a CR1220 is a viable alternative for your prado fob, if necessary.
Now to go and do it all over this morning. THIS TIME I'm plugged in.
Anyways, she finally started, I was eventually able to let the clutch out, and we made our way to work. So last night I lubed the door locks with graphite lube, and then got to work on the key. It's the OEM two button toyota fob/key combo. The battery was a CR1216 which I didn't have on hand, but I did have a CR1220, also 3V, so I gave it a try. It worked perfectly, even from 2 feet away! LOL. So a CR1220 is a viable alternative for your prado fob, if necessary.
Now to go and do it all over this morning. THIS TIME I'm plugged in.
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Gosh! -30C?!?! 
I won't complain that it dropped to -8C this morning then... The ol' TDI started right up... though since I replaced the glows in the HZJ, it starts up just as well. I have not plugged it in since I replaced them. Good news is, it looks like the weather is warming up by the weekend so hopefully this cold snap does not hang around!
I won't complain that it dropped to -8C this morning then... The ol' TDI started right up... though since I replaced the glows in the HZJ, it starts up just as well. I have not plugged it in since I replaced them. Good news is, it looks like the weather is warming up by the weekend so hopefully this cold snap does not hang around!
JDM Journeys
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Airbag update:
While I always used Airlift (red) in the past, this time I gave the blue firestones a try. The last red ones I put in were in a 3rd gen Pajero, in 2014. They're still going. Ditto for the ones I installed in 2010 in a 2nd gen Pajero. But the firestones I put in this 90 series? I pulled them yesterday since the bags were both cracked wide open across the bottom. So I can't recommend these.
I also pulled the spacer lift. The 33s are now on the 70 series and fuel econ is paramount at the moment, so out it came. I'm in the middle of swapping balljoints and inner CV boots at the moment and will update with pics when I'm done. At 160k kms the original balljoints don't have any extra movement but the boots are both torn so... Better not to push it.
While I always used Airlift (red) in the past, this time I gave the blue firestones a try. The last red ones I put in were in a 3rd gen Pajero, in 2014. They're still going. Ditto for the ones I installed in 2010 in a 2nd gen Pajero. But the firestones I put in this 90 series? I pulled them yesterday since the bags were both cracked wide open across the bottom. So I can't recommend these.
I also pulled the spacer lift. The 33s are now on the 70 series and fuel econ is paramount at the moment, so out it came. I'm in the middle of swapping balljoints and inner CV boots at the moment and will update with pics when I'm done. At 160k kms the original balljoints don't have any extra movement but the boots are both torn so... Better not to push it.
JDM Journeys
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So... Some pic updates. First, failed firestones.
Both sides cracked in the same place. Very lightly used.
And I got some long awaited maintenance completed as well. New lower balljoints and a new CV inner axle boot (OEM one had a tear). The part number below wasn't oem but a really good cost effective substitute.
Oh, here's the old balljoint saying good luck to the new balljoint!
(Edit: on a larger monitor you might've picked up the fact that the new balljoints bolts weren't tightened. I did torque them after this pic was taken. Lol)
Both sides cracked in the same place. Very lightly used.
And I got some long awaited maintenance completed as well. New lower balljoints and a new CV inner axle boot (OEM one had a tear). The part number below wasn't oem but a really good cost effective substitute.
Oh, here's the old balljoint saying good luck to the new balljoint!
(Edit: on a larger monitor you might've picked up the fact that the new balljoints bolts weren't tightened. I did torque them after this pic was taken. Lol)
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@JDM Journeys - question for you about your ARB bar. I just got mine in, and the instructions are a little vague. Do you need a winch cradle for this bumper, or does the winch bolt directly to the inside of the bumper itself? Thanks!
JDM Journeys
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Winch bolts to the front of the bumper. Winch mounts on its side so to speak with bolts attaching through front of bumper if that makes sense?
Thank you! Yes, makes perfect sense... that's exactly what I needed to know. We had to pull the bumper out of all the packaging to make it fit in my wife's SUV, and I had a moment of fear that we'd left the winch cradle there.
TexasPrado95
SILVER Star
jealous of your working clock haha, love your build! I imagine the 2DR is an absolute BEAST off roadFactory cassette deck is retro cool, but only for a minute. So that had to be addressed:
View attachment 2169062
Enter the Sony AVX100 with Android Auto (apple carplay too). Google maps works in dash, as well as Spotify, Goggle Play, Podcasts, etc. Bluetooth phone and radio are an added bonus.
View attachment 2169063
Now I can have my analog clock and the latest tech sitting side by side in dash.
(EDIT: I synchronized the two clocks after this pic, because yes, that would drive me nuts too!
And in case you're wondering, this AA unit needs the phone plugged in to have full functionality. But the bonus is I don't have to charge it night time anymore.
JDM Journeys
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Lol. Working clock is a good thing.
I'm most impressed with the low range. Having wheeled swb Mitsubishi's for most of my adult life, I'm very used to shorties but with 1.92 to 1 low range. 2.7 to 1 is a whole different ball game for sure.
It's give and take though, like anything. The front has a nice feel with coilovers compared to torsion bars, but my previous mitsu lower balljoints could be almost ready to fall out and not risk my wheel coming off. Lol.
The 2nd gen Pajero in my opinion had a sturdier suspension build than the 90 series, which was built "as durable as it needed to be". Engine wise the mitsu was a little more sensitive to good maintenance and OEM parts but otherwise both are fabulous.
I'm most impressed with the low range. Having wheeled swb Mitsubishi's for most of my adult life, I'm very used to shorties but with 1.92 to 1 low range. 2.7 to 1 is a whole different ball game for sure.
It's give and take though, like anything. The front has a nice feel with coilovers compared to torsion bars, but my previous mitsu lower balljoints could be almost ready to fall out and not risk my wheel coming off. Lol.
The 2nd gen Pajero in my opinion had a sturdier suspension build than the 90 series, which was built "as durable as it needed to be". Engine wise the mitsu was a little more sensitive to good maintenance and OEM parts but otherwise both are fabulous.
