Can you Identify this P/S Pump?

[rstoddard]

I bought the PS Pump as part of a Bolt on Kit from Classic Cruisers in CO back in 2002. Do far I haven’t been able the get them to help me identify the brand/model of pump it is. I have a problem in that the pulley is wobbling. I can’t tell if the Pulley is just bent and deformed, or if the shaft is contributing to the wobble.

Question is wether I should pull the Pulley and try and replace it, or should I just not the bullet and replace the entire pump and high pressure hose?

It would help to know what pump I should look for to replace it with ( or to buy a pulley for). Does anyone recognize this pump, and can advise me?

The only markings I can find is the name “Metric” on the casting,,and the number “354324ABGM” on the Pulley. I don’t find anything when I Google that.

 

[peesalot]

That looks like a GM pump, many applications, search on here and you should find a post with a year/model application, the main diff is the return hose location/shape.
The press on pulleys require a tool that is really cheap now.

 

[cwwfj60]

Also press on pulley tool can be rented for free at most auto parts stores.

I would guess 90’s Chevrolet pickup would be a good starting place for searching

 

[cruisermatt]

Most likely the pump bushing.

The pulley and pump will most likely be separate parts.

Even if you buy a new pulley you must use the specialty tool to install it otherwise you will destroy the pump.

Very expensive $22 removal/install tool. https://a.co/d/1ordSyR

Or rent from auto parts store.

 

[Mopdog]

There is differences in the mounting points and in/outputs but most of the Chevy cars and trucks from the 70s are all pretty similar. I’d take it to a parts store and start with a mid 70s C10 or Impala. There is an old write up on a Saginaw swap on here that has a parts list with part numbers. The pictures on Rock Auto might get you close enough as well.

 

[Mopdog]

My Saginaw Power Steering Swap

This thread will detail a Saginaw power steering install into my 79 FJ40. I have been running a "minitruck" power steering box with a Tercel pump for 9 years and really wanted to get rid of the stock center arm linkage, along with the drag link that runs beside the drivers side tire. I was also...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[rstoddard]

I was able to find a correlation of the PN I had to a ‘75-‘81 Chevy Camero/ Pontiac (go figure) but I think the late 70’s Chevy Truck is the same/similar.

I went with a Tuff-Stuff Performance pump & pulley for under $200 (New). Slightly different Return Line location but it should work.

 

[rstoddard]

@peesalot

I put this new PS Pump in but I kind of screwed up in that the Return Line connection is pointing downward right toward the engine mount (whereas the one I had came out from the center horizontally towards the fender). That forced me to squeeze the return line under the engine mount bracket on the frame. It seems to be okay, although it puts the line closer to the header pipes than I would like, and the hose probably slightly touches the frame mount bracket but it doesn’t create any constriction.

What concerns me is I have read where manufacturers have commented that the lines “should not touch any part of the frame or body of the vehicle.” The only alternative I would have it to try and bend the line (and risk damaging the line or pump), or cutting (shortening) the line so I can connect to it without having to go from under the frame. My concern about doing that is being able to get a bubble flare on the end so I can get a good connection that will hold a hose.

Any thoughts? Should I just try the routing I have and see if I have any issues, or should I think about fixing this? Do you think it can create a problem?

 

[rstoddard]

@peesalot

I put this new PS Pump in but I kind of screwed up in that the Return Line connection is pointing downward right toward the engine mount (whereas the one I had came out from the center horizontally towards the fender). That forced me to squeeze the return line under the engine mount bracket on the frame. It seems to be okay, although it puts the line closer to the header pipes than I would like, and the hose probably slightly touches the frame mount bracket but it doesn’t create any constriction.

What concerns me is I have read where manufacturers have commented that the lines “should not touch any part of the frame or body of the vehicle.” The only alternative I would have it to try and bend the line (and risk damaging the line or pump), or cutting (shortening) the line so I can connect to it without having to go from under the frame. My concern about doing that is being able to get a bubble flare on the end so I can get a good connection that will hold a hose.

Any thoughts? Should I just try the routing I have and see if I have any issues, or should I think about fixing this? Do you think it can create a problem?

 

[peesalot]

Well, you know you could put the can from your previous pump on the new one. depending on the adjustment you may be able to get a slightly shorter belt which would tilt the pump a bit more and be just enough to relieve that rub point, I would cut a larger hose and create a rub sleeve for that spot anyway .

 

[3_puppies]

from the pics above, there is a very good chance that hose will rub thru and have a leak
it looks like it is rubbing on the frame bracket

 

[pjohnson]

I would cut a larger hose and create a rub sleeve for that spot anyway .

@rstoddard
I would try this if there enough space or find a steel braided line. I used this method on all my arb air lines.

 

[Bigdon]

Just replaced mine this week. The pressure side has a gm style o ring connection. Its for a 95 silverado... O'Reilly part number 731-2138. If u dont need the o ring style simply buy an adaptor o ring to flare... Pulley is a Dorman 300122. My return line comes from the front because i have a p/s cooler in front of the radiator.