Can you help me identify these springs and have you ever seen this?

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Odd post, but thanks in advance.
Vitals:
1994
202k
Triple locked

I've only had this vehicle for a few weeks and I got it so unbelievably inexpensively that nothing about it surprises mes

First off: These springs came with my LC and I'm not sure whether or not they are even compatible with the vehicle. No paint markings, but it looks like 9 or 10 coils and they're roughly 21" tall.

Second....I was rebuilding the knuckles and I couldn't get the passenger side front most tie rod end loose. I hit it with a sledge, a puller, and an air hammer. Eventually i cut it up with a grinder and it looks like it's been welded to the piece that goes below the knuckle. I'll probably bring it to a local machine shop and have them drill it clean for me beacuse my press wasn't up to the task, but how in the hell would this have happened?

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mudgudgeon

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Tire rod ends are an extremely tight tapered fit, especially if they are originals, and torqued in at the factory.

They can be an absolute bïtch to break loose.

Not sure how many 🍌 mechanic you are?

A pitman arm style puller is the most successful option. Load up the puller, then strike the steering arm.
Sometimes heat will be needed too.

Many a puller has been broken trying to break these free on 80 series

If you're having it machined out, the hole in the steering arm needs to be tapered
 
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Tire rod ends are an extremely tight tapered fit, especially if they are originals, and torqued in at the factory.

They can be an absolute bïtch to break loose.

Not sure how many 🍌 mechanic you are?

A pitman arm style puller is the most successful option. Load up the puller, then strike the steering arm.
Sometimes heat will be needed too.

Many a puller has been broken trying to break these free on 80 series

If you're having it machined out, the hole in the steering arm needs to be tapered
I broke my puller, I heated it till it was hot, I used PB, I used an air hammer, I used a sledge, I used an air hammer....Eventually I just cut it. Do you know hat degree the taper needs to be? If it's that fine, I'll probably just wait till I can find a replacement.
 
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since you have the arm off put it in a press
I thought about that too...I dont have one, but like I said if i bring it to a shop locally they can probably push it out for me. If it costs me 30 bucks it costs me 30 bucks. We're hunting for a forever home in which I'll be able to keep things like a press and a mill but for now It's just my 2 car garage.
 

mudgudgeon

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I broke my puller, I heated it till it was hot, I used PB, I used an air hammer, I used a sledge, I used an air hammer....Eventually I just cut it. Do you know hat degree the taper needs to be? If it's that fine, I'll probably just wait till I can find a replacement.

I once spent a full saturday separating tie rod ends. (My first 80).
Started with pickle fork. No joy
Then progressed to a 4lb hammer backing the steering arm, striking with a 24oz hammer. This got all but one free.
Then I used 2 X 4lb hammers. No joy
Then went and bought a puller. Broke it.
Went back and bought another different puller. Broke the second one.
Ended up borrowing oxy accetylene torch from a buddy, heated it, and used 2x 4lb hammers to strike it and separate it.

Probably one of the more infuriating days I've spent fixing an 80.

I now have a good pitman arm style puller
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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The springs are most likely OME. How thick is the spring material? Do you know the hub to fender measurement when they were installed. They look thicker than an 850 heavy which means they could be what OME calls competition springs which came in 3”,4”, and 5” lift.
 
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The springs are most likely OME. How thick is the spring material? Do you know the hub to fender measurement when they were installed. They look thicker than an 850 heavy which means they could be what OME calls competition springs which came in 3”,4”, and 5” lift.
Never been installed as far as I know. The full story of this vehicle is still a mystery to me, but I got it for $1500 and I'm spending what I figured I'd spend on an 80 making all the ridiculous things ive seen right. I can measure the thickness of the spring when it's light out. Is there any markings I should be looking for. I'm guessing if they're for this truck, it's probably a lift spring over stock, right?
 

baldilocks

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There won’t be markings on the spring. Those are front lift springs. Cruiseroutfitters/Cruuserteq web site has a chart that shows pertinent info concerning the OME coil springs.
 
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There won’t be markings on the spring. Those are front lift springs. Cruiseroutfitters/Cruuserteq web site has a chart that shows pertinent info concerning the OME coil springs.
Thanks....gonna necro my own thread here. The knuckle rebuilds took me longer than I figured they would working for like an hour after work a day, but I finished em up last night and am ready to move along with getting my 80 back on the road. The coils I pictured earlier are about 20.5" Drivers and 20.0" passenger side with a thickness of 5/8". Best I can tell is that they're OME 2850J's. from the Compiled 80 suspension thread. It looks like they're 3" lift coils from what I can tell online, but I'm still having some trouble understanding all of the measurements. I'm not going for much lift, but since I have these springs free i should decide if I can use them or not before spending the coin on a full new suspension setup. I also have a brand new set of KYB stock height shocks that I'm guessing I couldn't use if I decided to use these lift coils and order complimentary ones in the rear...right?

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Just buy new or used steering arm
Thanks. I actually got that drilled out with a very narrow step bit and then hammered what was left out. New TRE's are already in all the way around. Just figuring out my suspension....I'm gonna go hunt down a set of stock fronts if I can find them, but it's not as easy as finding jeep parts

Edit: they're 2850js. Don't feel like doing a lift that big and really don't feel like messing with the castor before winter. If anyone's got some stock fronts that aren't totally beat lmk. They crushed the lx450 at the yard by me
 
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Thanks. I actually got that drilled out with a very narrow step bit and then hammered what was left out. New TRE's are already in all the way around. Just figuring out my suspension....I'm gonna go hunt down a set of stock fronts if I can find them, but it's not as easy as finding jeep parts

Edit: they're 2850js. Don't feel like doing a lift that big and really don't feel like messing with the castor before winter. If anyone's got some stock fronts that aren't totally beat lmk. They crushed the lx450 at the yard by me
I have a full set from my 96 that have 250K on them. The RR is a little shorter than it's supposed to be due to the PO.

$50 plus the ride. Unfortunately, I am 250 miles from home and no idea when I am getting back in order to ship them.

Looks like you're doing this now.
 
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I have a full set from my 96 that have 250K on them. The RR is a little shorter than it's supposed to be due to the PO.

$50 plus the ride. Unfortunately, I am 250 miles from home and no idea when I am getting back in order to ship them.

Looks like you're doing this now.
Where ya at? I doubt shipping would be with it...my rears look okay. I found a guy with a rusted out 80 like 60 minutes north on Facebook, i'll see if he responds. I'm all about doing it now - took me 3 years to find one. It just needs a biiiit of work. Price was right though
 
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Where ya at? I doubt shipping would be with it...my rears look okay. I found a guy with a rusted out 80 like 60 minutes north on Facebook, i'll see if he responds. I'm all about doing it now - took me 3 years to find one. It just needs a biiiit of work. Price was right though
Kansas City.

Only a mere 10 hour drive from you. Almost the back yard.
 
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Lol thanks homey, we'll call it plan B. Suspension work is so much easier than wiring and knuckle and bearing crap I'm almost looking forward to it
You're welcome honey. Love you too!
 
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