N
nyk438
Guest
I read at cruiserpages.com that you can swap a GM alternator into my LC...it was done in a 40 but would it work in my 80?
heres the description
HOW TO INSTALL A GM ALTERNATOR IN A LAND CRUISER
There are several reasons why you might want to install a GM alternator into your Land Cruiser.
You are installing a Chevy V8 in your Land Cruiser.
Your stock alternator has gone bad and you want a cheeper alternative.
You are planning to run hi-amp accessories that the stock alternator will not be able to handle like a winch or lights.
I did some testing of the stock alternator in my 79 FJ40 and it only puts out about 25amps. I started reading the Toyota manual and found that the alternator was only rated at 30+ amps! This was not going to work with my new winch. I opted to have a custom GM internally regulated alternator built by a local shop. It is a stock GM case that has been internally reworked to produce 130 amps. The cost of this alternator was still less than a stock Toyota replacement part.
Installing the GM alternator
First note that the GM alternator has three electrical connections labeled Bat, #1, and #2. (I'm assuming that you are using an internally regulated alternator vs the externally regulated stock Toyota alternator.)
Attach the LARGE WHITE WITH BLUE STRIPE Toyota wire that was attched to the back of the Toyota alternator to the Bat terminal of the GM alternator. This is the charge wire. As a note: If you have upgraded to a high output GM alternator, this wire may be undersized and you should increase the current carrying capacity of this wire.
Now make a 4" jumper wire with a ring terminal on one end and a female spade terminal on the other. Attach this wire between the Bat and #1 terminals of the GM alternator.
Disconnect the Toyota regulator which is usually located on the firewall below the clutch master cylinder. The Toyota regulator will no longer be needed since you are using an internally regulated alternator.
The last wire you need to attach is the ignition switch wire. The BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE disconnected from the Toyota regulator is a fused ignition switch feed wire. This wire will need to be attched to the GM alternator #2 terminal. Run a new wire from this BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE to the #2 terminal on the GM alternator OR you can connect the BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE from the regulator to the WHITE WITH GREEN STRIPE WIRE from the Toyota regulator together and then connect the WHITE WITH GREEN STRIPE WIRE to the #2 terminal on the GM alternator.
To verify everything is working: With the engine off, connect a volt meter across the battery terminals. You should read about 12.5 volts on a fully charged battery. Now start the engine and watch the volt meter. It should increase to just above 13 volts. If you have installed a high output alternator it may be necessary to increase the engine RPM to see the voltage increase. (Generally, high output alternators will begin charging at a higher RPM due to the high output design. A higher RPM is necessary to produce the higher output and the lower (idle) RPM may not produce enough current and voltage to show up on the meter at the battery. One way (or trick) to compensate for this is to decrease the size of the alternator pully which will increase the alternator RPM. In fact, on many standard alternators you can do this to produce a 'high output alternator'.)
heres the description
HOW TO INSTALL A GM ALTERNATOR IN A LAND CRUISER
There are several reasons why you might want to install a GM alternator into your Land Cruiser.
You are installing a Chevy V8 in your Land Cruiser.
Your stock alternator has gone bad and you want a cheeper alternative.
You are planning to run hi-amp accessories that the stock alternator will not be able to handle like a winch or lights.
I did some testing of the stock alternator in my 79 FJ40 and it only puts out about 25amps. I started reading the Toyota manual and found that the alternator was only rated at 30+ amps! This was not going to work with my new winch. I opted to have a custom GM internally regulated alternator built by a local shop. It is a stock GM case that has been internally reworked to produce 130 amps. The cost of this alternator was still less than a stock Toyota replacement part.
Installing the GM alternator
First note that the GM alternator has three electrical connections labeled Bat, #1, and #2. (I'm assuming that you are using an internally regulated alternator vs the externally regulated stock Toyota alternator.)
Attach the LARGE WHITE WITH BLUE STRIPE Toyota wire that was attched to the back of the Toyota alternator to the Bat terminal of the GM alternator. This is the charge wire. As a note: If you have upgraded to a high output GM alternator, this wire may be undersized and you should increase the current carrying capacity of this wire.
Now make a 4" jumper wire with a ring terminal on one end and a female spade terminal on the other. Attach this wire between the Bat and #1 terminals of the GM alternator.
Disconnect the Toyota regulator which is usually located on the firewall below the clutch master cylinder. The Toyota regulator will no longer be needed since you are using an internally regulated alternator.
The last wire you need to attach is the ignition switch wire. The BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE disconnected from the Toyota regulator is a fused ignition switch feed wire. This wire will need to be attched to the GM alternator #2 terminal. Run a new wire from this BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE to the #2 terminal on the GM alternator OR you can connect the BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE from the regulator to the WHITE WITH GREEN STRIPE WIRE from the Toyota regulator together and then connect the WHITE WITH GREEN STRIPE WIRE to the #2 terminal on the GM alternator.
To verify everything is working: With the engine off, connect a volt meter across the battery terminals. You should read about 12.5 volts on a fully charged battery. Now start the engine and watch the volt meter. It should increase to just above 13 volts. If you have installed a high output alternator it may be necessary to increase the engine RPM to see the voltage increase. (Generally, high output alternators will begin charging at a higher RPM due to the high output design. A higher RPM is necessary to produce the higher output and the lower (idle) RPM may not produce enough current and voltage to show up on the meter at the battery. One way (or trick) to compensate for this is to decrease the size of the alternator pully which will increase the alternator RPM. In fact, on many standard alternators you can do this to produce a 'high output alternator'.)
