Appreciate the positive feedback.
To add they only weight 30lbs a pair and only a hand drill is needed for installation.
Can we talk sliders? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MattSEG
- Start date
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Appreciate the positive feedback.
To add they only weight 30lbs a pair and only a hand drill is needed for installation.
Whoever came up with the name sliders sure missed a good chance to call em grinders!
True testament above from a wheeler. If you dont need side protection you pick up 2" or more of clearance over heavy duty step sliders with our rails. Sometime the additional clearance can make the difference of making it or not. They only hang down about 1" below the pinch weld for maximum clearance.
I have run our 100 series Rock Rails all over the trails on featured on HIH and never made contact. (Did not run Poughkeepsie Gulch)
Just made another run of our Rock Rails due to demand. Have only a few sets remaining as over 1/2 were pre sold as a secret menu item.
Will not work with any LX470.
Not much (any) info on our web site so let me know if you have any questions?
Our fab guy has not given us a cost increase on rails YET. So the same low price of $370 and Free Shipping in the lower 48 for remaining stock.
Clickable link - Rock Rails - Land Cruiser Products - LCP Never any shipping surprises because its FREE SHIPPING
@WTstolencruzr See the Rock Rails above by LCPhil
Sorry I dont recommend them for the LX470 only because its difficult to cut the Tupperware for a clean install. Not that it cant be done depending on ones skill level. Im jones'n because I would like them on my LX470. I have ideas but it will be a while before I get time to play.
Thanks for all the product support but I again underestimated the demand for our rails and are Sold out in just a few weeks
We are putting together another order but with the steel tariffs around the corner everyone is increasing there inventory prior to the price increase and product delays are in force.
I will not take money for pre order but I will start a list of buyers with strong interest. Post up if you want on the list.
We are putting together another order but with the steel tariffs around the corner everyone is increasing there inventory prior to the price increase and product delays are in force.
I will not take money for pre order but I will start a list of buyers with strong interest. Post up if you want on the list.
Very happy with my BIOR sliders had Mike make mine the same as Ryan's. Here's a link to Ryan's pictures
Bump It Offroad (BIO) sliders
Bump It Offroad (BIO) sliders
The design and finished product looks great, but I'd be a little concerned that he didn't add any gusseting or at the very least scab plates to your frame. First set of sliders I ever built I attached to my frame the same way your's are. After doing more research, I immediately cut them off and added gussets and scab plates.
Interesting. Sounds like a good project once I get a welding setup.
Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but figured that was better than starting a new one. I'm looking to get some sliders, and I think I've narrowed it down to Slee step slider of the White Knuckle Off Road sliders (flat out, full top plate). I removed my running boards earlier this year, and there have been some complaints about getting in and out of the car. (I often tell the kids I got in and out of a 1978 Ford Bronco just fine when I was their age and it sat up way higher, doesn't seem to have an effect)
Do the Slee step sliders offer enough of a step for passengers getting in and out of the back or at the WKOR better for this with the kickout? Anyone have any experience with both? Pros, cons?
Bonus: doesn't anyone have any pictures of the new WKOR with the newer top plate installed?
Do the Slee step sliders offer enough of a step for passengers getting in and out of the back or at the WKOR better for this with the kickout? Anyone have any experience with both? Pros, cons?
Bonus: doesn't anyone have any pictures of the new WKOR with the newer top plate installed?
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I have the WK sliders you are talking about (flat out, full top plate).
A) they are heavy (as expected)
B) You will need to put some traction tape on the round surfaces to prevent slipping.
If I were to do it all over again, i would leave the factory ones on as a sacrificial step. I am in the "overland" camp where weight is everything and the goal is to take the "easy way" around if possible.
If you are looking for actual "slider" performance (hanging on rocks), they do the job well.
That's not my story and I'm not sticking to it
A) they are heavy (as expected)
B) You will need to put some traction tape on the round surfaces to prevent slipping.
If I were to do it all over again, i would leave the factory ones on as a sacrificial step. I am in the "overland" camp where weight is everything and the goal is to take the "easy way" around if possible.
If you are looking for actual "slider" performance (hanging on rocks), they do the job well.
That's not my story and I'm not sticking to it
