Can I get your opinions on the rust on this FJ40 I'm looking at?

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What do you guys think about the rust in the pictures below? That is the worst of it. What would you pay for a cruiser that had that rust but drove well? The seller is asking $5k

The interior is in good condition and the truck is mostly stock.

Click to make the pictures bigger

Here is a link to the FJ40 buying guide if anyone else finds this thread and needs it
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/132481-buying-land-cruiser.html









 
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D'Animal

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It will need rear quarter panels and a rear sill, most FJ40's do.

The bib is rusty, several are.

I would be more concerend about picture #3 and #5. They are located in the main body or cowl of the rig.
 
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I'd be ok with driving it rusty for a while as long as it didn't fall apart. I could do some of the work myself, but I'd image it would never be a show truck. I wouldn't want to spend too much money on it, at least not right away.
 
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I would be more concerend about picture #3 and #5. They are located in the main body or cowl of the rig.
Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to get up underneath there and see how far it spread.

Is $5k overpaying for a FJ40 in this condition?
 
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Thanks for the info, I'll be sure to get up underneath there and see how far it spread.

Is $5k overpaying for a FJ40 in this condition?
That depends on the vintage, mileage, etc. It looks like a '75-'78 from your pics. Also depends on how much resto you are going to do. If frame off, plan on multiplying that by at least 2.5. Just know when to say when during a resto, and oem parts are rapidly going away.
 
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The frame had surface rust but looked solid. I don't have pics of that unfortunately.

It's an 81. Roughly 100k miles

Is $4k more in the ballpark based on the limited info in this thread?
 

miker

 
 
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Have a good look at the frame, especially the inner "C" channel where the front of the rear springs mount. This is a collection spot for debis and moisture and well as a stress area for the frame. You might find some issues there.

Also look at the drivers floor area especially the body seam towards the door opening. This is where the kick panel and floor meet.

I would also look at the rear wheel well supports where they meet the top of the inner well. Look inside the truck as well as outside.

Also look at the rear cargo area floor to rear sill seam. Rear inner wheel wells to body side seams. My guess is that it also needs rear wheel wells and possibly a rear floor or rear floor section besides the obvious rear C channel support, rear sill, and rear sides skins.

I also notice that the rear door hinge bolts are missing. My guess is that they are broke off because of rust. I would also have concerns about the area where the hardtop meets the body tub especially in the rear corners.

You might also spend some time looking at the hard top cap bolts and rain gutter lip both inside and outside the truck. I suspect you will find some bad areas since moisture has likely gotten in there over the years and this truck looks like it spend some time in a rust prone area.
 
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How were the floors? In the back of the tub and where your feet would be?
I was only able to give it a quick look inside so far. The drivers floor looked good. The floor in the back and the wheel wells had some surface rust but it didn't look bad at all. I was suprised, there didn't seem to be any holes or potential holes in the floor.
 

D'Animal

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I think it is, but I am frugal.

It's an 81. Roughly 100k miles

Is $4k more in the ballpark based on the limited info in this thread?

Get a magnet and go over the areas where people here have posted to look on the body.

Deal breakers for me are the front cowl where the windshield mount meets the cowl and where the cowl wraps around down the sides. If rust is in these areas. I walk away.


Just remember that in great condition with no rust it is about a $4k to $5k rig in this economy.

Look at CCOT for the cost of sheet metal and then subtract that from the value. For labor, I figure twice the cost of the sheet metal.

As an example of my weird way of thinking:

Just what we can see.
If a rear quarter panel is $250, figure $500 in labor to install it.
Rear Sill is $200, figure $400 in labor to install it.
Other rear quarter panel is $250, figure $500 in labor to install it.


You have roughly $2,000 in repairs right there before freight. Subtract that from the $4k asking price and you are at $2k for the vehicle.
 
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Great info D'Animal, thanks.

The truck is local so there is no freight, but I'm in the Midwest so I imagine only the fresh restos and cream puffs are going to be mostly rust free around here. I'd actually feel bad about putting a decent truck on the crappy salt roads where I live.
 

Gusb

 
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Just remember that in great condition with no rust it is about a $4k to $5k rig in this economy.
Wait a minute - has the economy gotten so bad that an 81 "in great condition with no rust" is only worth $4-$5k? Let me know if you find one - I'll take it. :)
 

miker

 
 
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Great info D'Animal, thanks.

The truck is local so there is no freight, but I'm in the Midwest so I imagine only the fresh restos and cream puffs are going to be mostly rust free around here. I'd actually feel bad about putting a decent truck on the crappy salt roads where I live.
Now I understand why the seller said minor rust. You are both from the midwest. "Minor rust" where you are from means the engine and transmission are still somewhat securly mounted, the frame is not sagging from structural damage, and the body is not likely to fall off within the next 6 to 12 months. ;)
 
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Now I understand why the seller said minor rust. You are both from the midwest. "Minor rust" where you are from means the engine and transmission are still somewhat securly mounted, the frame is not sagging from structural damage, and the body is not likely to fall off within the next 6 to 12 months. ;)
So true. :steer:

Unfortunately 'average' midwest FJ40s seems to be for sale for the same price as 'average' west coast FJ40s, even though the average west coast rigs are much nicer.
 
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